CLUTCH FLUID CHANGE

[Townie_imp]

The part number on the bag I have is 45520-MM5-006

The head mech at my dealer says to always replace them too. So I do.

Perfect, thanks Popgun.

 

[Rossi_imp]

Have any of you ever used the bleeder bottle with the built in check valve? The reviews I have read are positive but how does this method work on the dual discs on the front?

 

[Lord Popgun]

I used the MityVac pump and it worked good on the brakes and clutch. Used it on the ST1300 too and that thing is a J.O.B.!!

Just don't let the reservoir run low and suck in air. I don't have the check valves some use.

 

[Rossi_imp]

I used the MityVac pump and it worked good on the brakes and clutch. Used it on the ST1300 too and that thing is a J.O.B.!!

Just don't let the reservoir run low and suck in air. I don't have the check valves some use.

Did you put the cover back on the reservoir to keep any fluid from splashing?

 

[Lord Popgun]

No, just pumped the MityVac. Kept watch on the reservoir and refilled it as necessary.

Also, before starting I sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir with, in my case, a big syringe and made sure to get it all out of the very bottom at the pickup. Or use a baster or some such. This gets all the crud out, if any. Then I wiped it clean, then I put in new fluid and started the flush. I learned this trick from a guy with 4 Goldwings. Just don’t pull the lever with no fluid in the reservoir or you will put air in the line.

Our bikes are EASY to bleed and really you can just do the pull the lever and crack the bleeder and tighten. Rinse and repeat until you are done. The clutch was weird as it obviously doesn’t get tight like brakes. And I will say on the ST the brake system is complicated and there is a check valve that the MityVac would just barely pull through so I had to work the lever some. Not on the CB, even ABS models.

Honestly, on the CB I wouldn’t use the MityVac, but I have no help so it was easier. The rear I can do the crack and bleed thing.

Warning: DO NOT get brake fluid on anything painted or made of plastic that you are fond of. It will mess up them fast. Cover your tank with a plastic garbage bag or some such and put an old towel over that. I also put painters tape on (my black painted) reservoirs. I didn’t spill ANY, but stuff happens.

 

[Rossi_imp]

No, just pumped the MityVac. Kept watch on the reservoir and refilled it as necessary.

Also, before starting I sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir with, in my case, a big syringe and made sure to get it all out of the very bottom at the pickup. Or use a baster or some such. This gets all the crud out, if any. Then I wiped it clean, then I put in new fluid and started the flush. I learned this trick from a guy with 4 Goldwings. Just don’t pull the lever with no fluid in the reservoir or you will put air in the line.

Our bikes are EASY to bleed and really you can just do the pull the lever and crack the bleeder and tighten. Rinse and repeat until you are done. The clutch was weird as it obviously doesn’t get tight like brakes. And I will say on the ST the brake system is complicated and there is a check valve that the MityVac would just barely pull through so I had to work the lever some. Not on the CB, even ABS models.

Honestly, on the CB I wouldn’t use the MityVac, but I have no help so it was easier. The rear I can do the crack and bleed thing.

Warning: DO NOT get brake fluid on anything painted or made of plastic that you are fond of. It will mess up them fast. Cover your tank with a plastic garbage bag or some such and put an old towel over that. I also put painters tape on (my black painted) reservoirs. I didn’t spill ANY, but stuff happens.

Thanks Popgun. I was thinking a large baster would be a good thing to evacuate the master cylinder and also though it might work to pull fluid like the vacuum pump?

 

[Lord Popgun]

I don’t know. Give it try. If it doesn’t work, just do the old pump the lever and crack the bleeder thing. I pumped slowly, not fast jerking pumping. Just try not to get air in the line or the job gets harder.

I’m sure you know. Use only fluid from an unopened container. Don’t leave the reservoirs open any longer than needed.

If anyone has a 2013 ABS model, it has a combined braking system. Bleeding might be slightly different. I’d have to check the manual.

I hope others will chime in with other (better?) advice.

 

[peterbaron]

Popgan, you are correct.

Generally speaking, there are four different methods, depending on equipment availability and skills. Period.

1* by gravity, - crack bleeder and let fluid leak out while topping up reservoir - long and less efficient/sufficient - I do not use this method, may not purge air from the system.
2* by pumping clutch/brake lever and cracking bleeder, while topping up reservoir. Advanced step of this method is to attach one end of clear hose to the bleeder, and the other hose end to insert into container with brake fluid. Once you bleed/purge entire system, including clear hose, you no longer need to crack your bleeder = stays open while pumping clutch/brake lever. Last step: close bleeder, pump lever couple of times, crack and close bleeder while applying lever. Completed. Very good and efficient method - no special equipment required. Simple to do at home/garage
3* by suction - requires suction machine, while topping up reservoir. Very good and efficient method but suction tool & compressor required.
4* by pressure- requires special tool with brake fluid container and compressor. Pressure is appleid on top of fluid reservoir while cracking bleeder. The best and most superior method.
Handless all applications, electric cars, hybrid, multi piston callipers, combined ABS, one person can do all, once machine is set up properly with knowledgeable operator.

Only use unopened container, as brake fluid absorbs moisture, preventing hydraulic system from corrosion/failure. Use designated DOT. CB takes DOT 4.

Don't experiment with silicone brake fluid, as you may ruin all your seals.
Good luck to all. Always test your brakes prior riding

 

[Rossi_imp]

Popgan, you are correct.

Generally speaking, there are four different methods, depending on equipment availability and skills. Period.

1* by gravity, - crack bleeder and let fluid leak out while topping up reservoir - long and less efficient/sufficient - I do not use this method, may not purge air from the system.
2* by pumping clutch/brake lever and cracking bleeder, while topping up reservoir. Advanced step of this method is to attach one end of clear hose to the bleeder, and the other hose end to insert into container with brake fluid. Once you bleed/purge entire system, including clear hose, you no longer need to crack your bleeder = stays open while pumping clutch/brake lever. Last step: close bleeder, pump lever couple of times, crack and close bleeder while applying lever. Completed. Very good and efficient method - no special equipment required. Simple to do at home/garage
3* by suction - requires suction machine, while topping up reservoir. Very good and efficient method but suction tool & compressor required.
4* by pressure- requires special tool with brake fluid container and compressor. Pressure is appleid on top of fluid reservoir while cracking bleeder. The best and most superior method.
Handless all applications, electric cars, hybrid, multi piston callipers, combined ABS, one person can do all, once machine is set up properly with knowledgeable operator.

Only use unopened container, as brake fluid absorbs moisture, preventing hydraulic system from corrosion/failure. Use designated DOT. CB takes DOT 4.

Don't experiment with silicone brake fluid, as you may ruin all your seals.
Good luck to all. Always test your brakes prior riding

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.

 

[Townie_imp]

Guys,

Should new DOT4 brake fluid have any color, or be water-clear?

I'm doing my clutch fluid flush, and the new Honda DOT4 brake fluid, unopened container, has a definite amber color, just a few shades lighter than the fluid I'm replacing.

Thanks.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Normal. Amber is the color of the Honda fluid. With 2 Hondas, I’ve seen a lot of that fluid.

 

[Townie_imp]

Normal. Amber is the color of the Honda fluid. With 2 Hondas, I’ve seen a lot of that fluid.

Thanks Popgun. I'll carry-on then.

 

[max]

Last time i also unbolted the slave cylinder and pushed the old fluid out and back into the reservoir, used a tool to overcome the spring inside and checked for leaks, cleaned and applied a light smear of grease to protect the exposed part of the cylinder against corrosion before filling new fluid, the old clutch fluid was very dark for some reason and used towels on the tank like popgun mentioned.

 

[Houtman_imp]

I use the CLEAR Valvoline brake fluid , easier to see when all the old and darker fluid is gone.

 

[billyjax_imp]

Popgan, you are correct.

Generally speaking, there are four different methods, depending on equipment availability and skills. Period.

1* by gravity, - crack bleeder and let fluid leak out while topping up reservoir - long and less efficient/sufficient - I do not use this method, may not purge air from the system.
2* by pumping clutch/brake lever and cracking bleeder, while topping up reservoir. Advanced step of this method is to attach one end of clear hose to the bleeder, and the other hose end to insert into container with brake fluid. Once you bleed/purge entire system, including clear hose, you no longer need to crack your bleeder = stays open while pumping clutch/brake lever. Last step: close bleeder, pump lever couple of times, crack and close bleeder while applying lever. Completed. Very good and efficient method - no special equipment required. Simple to do at home/garage
3* by suction - requires suction machine, while topping up reservoir. Very good and efficient method but suction tool & compressor required.
4* by pressure- requires special tool with brake fluid container and compressor. Pressure is appleid on top of fluid reservoir while cracking bleeder. The best and most superior method.
Handless all applications, electric cars, hybrid, multi piston callipers, combined ABS, one person can do all, once machine is set up properly with knowledgeable operator.

Only use unopened container, as brake fluid absorbs moisture, preventing hydraulic system from corrosion/failure. Use designated DOT. CB takes DOT 4.

Don't experiment with silicone brake fluid, as you may ruin all your seals.
Good luck to all. Always test your brakes prior riding

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.
Is it ok/safe to use Preston Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid :

Prestone® DOT 4 Brake Fluid - Prestone® Total Protection

Thanks

 

[peterbaron]

Popgan, you are correct.

Generally speaking, there are four different methods, depending on equipment availability and skills. Period.

1* by gravity, - crack bleeder and let fluid leak out while topping up reservoir - long and less efficient/sufficient - I do not use this method, may not purge air from the system.
2* by pumping clutch/brake lever and cracking bleeder, while topping up reservoir. Advanced step of this method is to attach one end of clear hose to the bleeder, and the other hose end to insert into container with brake fluid. Once you bleed/purge entire system, including clear hose, you no longer need to crack your bleeder = stays open while pumping clutch/brake lever. Last step: close bleeder, pump lever couple of times, crack and close bleeder while applying lever. Completed. Very good and efficient method - no special equipment required. Simple to do at home/garage
3* by suction - requires suction machine, while topping up reservoir. Very good and efficient method but suction tool & compressor required.
4* by pressure- requires special tool with brake fluid container and compressor. Pressure is appleid on top of fluid reservoir while cracking bleeder. The best and most superior method.
Handless all applications, electric cars, hybrid, multi piston callipers, combined ABS, one person can do all, once machine is set up properly with knowledgeable operator.

Only use unopened container, as brake fluid absorbs moisture, preventing hydraulic system from corrosion/failure. Use designated DOT. CB takes DOT 4.

Don't experiment with silicone brake fluid, as you may ruin all your seals.
Good luck to all. Always test your brakes prior riding

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.
Is it ok/safe to use Preston Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid :

Prestone® DOT 4 Brake Fluid - Prestone® Total Protection

Thanks

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.
Is it ok/safe to use Preston Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid :

Prestone® DOT 4 Brake Fluid - Prestone® Total Protection

Thanks
All my cars and motorcycles have DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid flushed frequently.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I've never had to flush hydraulic clutch fluid unless the system was proven to be no longer closed.

This has been the same with every car I've owned. If the system has a leak, then yeah - the fluid will show it.

 

[Tev62]

I wonder if the clutch system comes complete with master/slave cylinder and the line prefilled with Dot 4 before it gets to the production line? I mean from a different supplier to the brake system. My 2017MY had very different clutch and brake fluid colours when I bled mine last year. I would be 99% sure the previous owner didn't have either bled as it had the original engine oil in the bike at 9,000km (He had the first service and that was it). I can't imagine one discolouring more than the other in the same timeframe and it could just be down to two different fluid brands.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I wonder if the clutch system comes complete with master/slave cylinder and the line prefilled with Dot 4 before it gets to the production line? I mean from a different supplier to the brake system. My 2017MY had very different clutch and brake fluid colours when I bled mine last year. I would be 99% sure the previous owner didn't have either bled as it had the original engine oil in the bike at 9,000km (He had the first service and that was it). I can't imagine one discolouring more than the other in the same timeframe and it could just be down to two different fluid brands.

I also assumed dark was "bad" and certainly I still can't help to think otherwise. Oxidation destroys.

That said, the fluid needs to be exposed to air and other contaminants. The last vehicle I had a brake fluid bleed performed was back in 1993. Most of my cages go the whole lifetime without a brake fluid bleed as long as the system remains closed. If it is not, then fluid change ought to be done. The last m/c bleed I did was in '84 because the reservoir "wasn't a closed system" (it was cracked).

I have had these discussions with service garages many times over the years and they don't do it unless a major brake service is being done. I can't imagine the environment liking having to process used brake fluid at a frequency of engine oil changes.

Today's hydraulic fluids and closed systems isn't our father's nor grandfather's. Nevertheless, I keep evaluating and asking technicians from time-to-time to look for a variation in opinion. Maybe motorcycle systems need to be bleed more often due to its smaller closed system footprint. However, I have not heard that argument either.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Lexus changes brake fluid at 30K miles. Not sure when they do it next and would have to check the service schedule.