CLUTCH FLUID CHANGE

SUPERCRUZ_imp

Running like a top
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Anybody changed out there clutch fluid yet? i would think this fluid needs to be changed with the same frequency as the brake fluid if not more often. I believe the hydraulic clutch uses the same DOT4 brake fluid as the brakes. Is there access to a bleed valve to bleed the system. Those with service manuals, please chime in.
 
Nothing about changing more often than brake fluid….I imagine you'd maintain the same service interval when changing fluid. Same DOT 4 fluid as brakes and there is a bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder. They recommend use of brake bleeder to purge air but it can be done without...
 
My front brake and clutch fluids are getting darker but I " think" 2 years is the changing spec. My rear brake fluid is crystal clear.

There is a bleed valve for the clutch slave cylinder. Looks like its behind the big cover on the rh side, but the manual isn't real clear or specific. Doesnt mention removing any covers, but looking at my bike i don't see how you would get to it without removing a cover.

Edit: re- reading step 1: "support motorcycle using its centerstand securely. Remove the left crankcase side cover."

In order to do that, you need to remove the pinch bolt and then remove gear shift arm from the gear shift spindle. Then you remove 3 screws to remove the cover.
 
It is on the left side. you need to remove gearshift arm from the spindle and then remove the plastic side cover to get access to the clutch slave. The bleed valve should have a plastic protective cap on it.
 
How does a speed bleeder work? Nevermind..went to their website and read about em. Interesting.
 
Thread starter
Thanks all for the posts. Maybe someone can take some pics of the left cover removed from the bike showing the slave or the schematic in the manual. If I am not mistaken, speed bleeders replace the standard bleed nipples on brake calipers/clutch slave and have a small spring loaded check ball in them. Hook a vacuum operated bleed tool to the speed bleed nipple and draw a vacuum. As vacuum builds, the check ball opens and allows fluid to be drawn out. Release vacuum and the check ball re-seats and keeps air from entering the system. Speed bleeders are a convenience item so you do not have to work a wrench to open an close the bleed nipple.
 
Naturally the CB 1100 is not listed on their fitment chart, but it looks like almost all Hondas take the same ones
 
Speed bleeders are fine, but there is a simpler, cheaper, cleaner, and very effective alternative.

Get a length of clear tubing that fits over the slave cylinder leed nipple. Run the tubing to a small clear jar that has a couple inches of brake fluid at the bottom. Submerge the tube end in the fluid.

Open the bleed nipple and the master reservoir top. Pump the clutch lever. The old fluid will begin to flow out through the tube. Continue cycling the lever while topping off the master reservoir.

As soon as you see clean fluid coming out, you are done. Close the bleed nipple, remove the hose, and go for a ride. The lever will be firm because this method removes any air as well as changing the fluid.
 
Quote:As soon as you see clean fluid coming out, you are done. Close the bleed nipple, remove the hose, and go for a ride. The lever will be firm because this method removes any air as well as changing the fluid.
Thanks Spaceman. That's how I would do it.
 
meowguy_imp said:
Quote:As soon as you see clean fluid coming out, you are done. Close the bleed nipple, remove the hose, and go for a ride. The lever will be firm because this method removes any air as well as changing the fluid.
Thanks Spaceman. That's how I would do it.
Thanks to my Dad. He and I spent a lot of "quality time" bleeding the clutch and brakes on various Brit cars he owned over the years (mostly Austins). "Pedal down! Pedal up!"
 
I just received the PDF file from Goodridge for all there brake parts they list speedbleeders SB125 AND SB125L. Has anyone ever bought these? Is one nipple left hand thread?
 
I have a pneumatic brake bleeder tool I bought at harbor freight. Runs off the compressor. It works nicely, and I will use it when time comes to flush and bleed the brakes and clutch fluid on this bike as well...
 
Elipten_imp said:
Well there are still a few to choose from. Who knows which are the ones actually required? Post it up gents.
And your answer is!

For those of you that read the thread post backwards (Newest post first, like I do) this is the meat of the thread.

So the answer is... the SB8125 (short) / SB8125L (long) are the Speedbleeder part numbers that the Goodridge catalog says fits the CB1100 and 12cb96vfr said the SB8125L fits and works, and is what he used. Amazon $13.30 free shipping for a pair.
 
the Ferret said:
My front brake and clutch fluids are getting darker but I " think" 2 years is the changing spec. My rear brake fluid is crystal clear.

There is a bleed valve for the clutch slave cylinder. Looks like its behind the big cover on the rh side, but the manual isn't real clear or specific. Doesnt mention removing any covers, but looking at my bike i don't see how you would get to it without removing a cover.

Edit: re- reading step 1: "support motorcycle using its centerstand securely. Remove the left crankcase side cover."

  In order to do that, you need to remove the pinch bolt and then remove gear shift arm from the gear shift spindle. Then you remove 3 screws to remove the cover.


To resurrect an old thread...

I was on page 9-8 of the service manual looking for the location of the clutch slave cylinder to access the bleed nipple, searched by bike for 10-15 mintures and after not finding it, I did find this thread.  Seems I missed the part about removing the gear shift arm to access the left crankcase side cover.  Thought I was going crazy because the photo from the SM wasn't matching anything visible on my bike.
 
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