Clutch/Brake fluid

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

My clutch felt like it wasn’t disengaging all the way so I replaced the fluid with Dot4 Honda fluid. It was better for awhile but it’s happening again. My question is, what fluid have you all found to be the best ?


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[GoldOxide_imp]

My understanding is any DOT4 certified, clean-from-an-unopened-bottle is most recommended as it contains the least contaminants and air.

Air bubbles in the hydraulic circuit?

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

My understanding is any DOT4 certified, clean-from-an-unopened-bottle is most recommended as it contains the least contaminants and air.

Air bubbles in the hydraulic circuit?

Yeah, I used Honda dot4. I’m sure it’s been bled properly. I’ll check for bubbles again but i just thought maybe there is a better fluid to use.


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[peterbaron]

+1 ^^^DOT4..is your problem located somewhere else, sticky pump/plunger or lever, requires bleeding, as most simple and common ???

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

+1 ^^^DOT4..is your problem located somewhere else, sticky pump/plunger or lever, requires bleeding, as most simple and common ???

I’ve got 53,000 miles on the bike, I suppose it could be time to rebuild the master cylinder.


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[LongRanger_imp]

Changing your engine oil may help too.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Normally when I flush the brakes or clutch I first suck out all the fluid in the reservoir making sure I get any gunk out of the very bottom. Then fill it back up and start the bleeding process.

 

[Houtman_imp]

Normally when I flush the brakes or clutch I first suck out all the fluid in the reservoir making sure I get any gunk out of the very bottom. Then fill it back up and start the bleeding process.

I do the same , with an air compressor type bleeder it is very easy.
Also make certain that you use an all clear new brake fluid , easier to see when the old fluid is completely gone.

 

[max]

MMC if you remove the oil filler cap you can see the clutch plates, with a torch it is easier to see them move.
if there is a leak you can check by watching the plates, pulling the clutch handle in and keep it pulled in for some time, if the plates stay apart for a minute or so there are no leaks but if they slowly close up you may have to look behind the left cover where the clutch slave cylinder is mounted and check for leakage, has the clutch fluid level dropped?

The clutch slave cylinder is different from the brake in that it has a spring behind the piston and travels ( moves ) more than a brake piston, it also has a bleed nipple on the cylinder and the seal can benefit from some grease to assist in lubricating the piston seal and prevent oxidation in case some liquid gets past the seal.

My fluid was a bit darker than the brake fluid and i undid the three bolts of the cylinder and pushed the piston back to expel as much of the old fluid in the system before removing/refilling the reservoir with fresh fluid and repeating the process twice to dilute the old fluid in the lines taking care not to spill any on any painted surfaces.

Also the engine oil can bind the plates causing more drag when dis-engaged.

Just some points to consider.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

I rebuilt the master cylinder, it’s better but not cured. Moving on to check the slave cylinder out. Thanks for the ideas!!


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[GoldOxide_imp]

I rebuilt the master cylinder, it’s better but not cured. Moving on to check the slave cylinder out. Thanks for the ideas!!


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Thanks for updating the Forum MMC.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

I cleaned out the slave cylinder (wasn’t really dirty) and bled system again. Still feels like it doesn’t disengage like it should. It’s time for an oil change, I’ll see how it feels after that but it’s been this way for awhile, even with fresh oil.


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[peterbaron]

Forget about hydraulics for a while and concentrate on a few simple mechanical issues like:
* is clutch lever sticky, does it have a full stroke/swing/travel, any wear/deeper hole in brass barrel that is located inside of each lever
* loose bolts to slave cylinder, pushrod's seat wear, sticky pushrod or slave cylinder on return
* clutch master compensating port partially plugged, has no full stroke/travel, you said you overhauled it = what exactly did you do with it
*excess of mechanical free play somewhere
I assume your clutch is not slipping.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

Forget about hydraulics for a while and concentrate on a few simple mechanical issues like:
* is clutch lever sticky, does it have a full stroke/swing/travel, any wear/deeper hole in brass barrel that is located inside of each lever
* loose bolts to slave cylinder, pushrod's seat wear, sticky pushrod or slave cylinder on return
* clutch master compensating port partially plugged, has no full stroke/travel, you said you overhauled it = what exactly did you do with it
*excess of mechanical free play somewhere
I assume your clutch is not slipping.

Clutch is not slipping. Lever functions properly. I replaced the piston and seals on master cylinder. Hydraulics are tip top at this point. Push rod seat wear is possibility I suppose. The clutch does disengage but feels like it hesitates or feels sticky for lack of better term but only at low speed, rolling through a parking lot in first, pulling clutch in and out while rolling, ya know, waiting for cars to move out of your way.... Once in a while it’s hard to get neutral from second while coming to a stop too. Overall, it’s functional really but it’s bothersome when it just doesn’t feel right.


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[GoldOxide_imp]

Makes one feel incomplete. Strange taste in the mouth. Most dissatisfying. An annoying itch that should not be there. Got it for sure. When you find the root cause, none of the other will matter.

 

[peterbaron]

Forget about hydraulics for a while and concentrate on a few simple mechanical issues like:
* is clutch lever sticky, does it have a full stroke/swing/travel, any wear/deeper hole in brass barrel that is located inside of each lever
* loose bolts to slave cylinder, pushrod's seat wear, sticky pushrod or slave cylinder on return
* clutch master compensating port partially plugged, has no full stroke/travel, you said you overhauled it = what exactly did you do with it
*excess of mechanical free play somewhere
I assume your clutch is not slipping.

Clutch is not slipping. Lever functions properly. I replaced the piston and seals on master cylinder. Hydraulics are tip top at this point. Push rod seat wear is possibility I suppose. The clutch does disengage but feels like it hesitates or feels sticky for lack of better term but only at low speed, rolling through a parking lot in first, pulling clutch in and out while rolling, ya know, waiting for cars to move out of your way.... Once in a while it’s hard to get neutral from second while coming to a stop too. Overall, it’s functional really but it’s bothersome when it just doesn’t feel right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Clutch is not slipping. Lever functions properly. I replaced the piston and seals on master cylinder. Hydraulics are tip top at this point. Push rod seat wear is possibility I suppose. The clutch does disengage but feels like it hesitates or feels sticky for lack of better term but only at low speed, rolling through a parking lot in first, pulling clutch in and out while rolling, ya know, waiting for cars to move out of your way.... Once in a while it’s hard to get neutral from second while coming to a stop too. Overall, it’s functional really but it’s bothersome when it just doesn’t feel right.
So it sounds like everything on the L-side is OK, including centre pushrod, which is not really clutch itself. Clutch is located on the R-side, and when clutch behaves badly, is it spongy, hard, judders, any noises at that particular moment???
Do you have service manual handy???
What oil and viscosity is inside??
Hm, have to think about it.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Any images to share with the Forum?

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

Any images to share with the Forum?

No, like what?


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Forget about hydraulics for a while and concentrate on a few simple mechanical issues like:
* is clutch lever sticky, does it have a full stroke/swing/travel, any wear/deeper hole in brass barrel that is located inside of each lever
* loose bolts to slave cylinder, pushrod's seat wear, sticky pushrod or slave cylinder on return
* clutch master compensating port partially plugged, has no full stroke/travel, you said you overhauled it = what exactly did you do with it
*excess of mechanical free play somewhere
I assume your clutch is not slipping.

Clutch is not slipping. Lever functions properly. I replaced the piston and seals on master cylinder. Hydraulics are tip top at this point. Push rod seat wear is possibility I suppose. The clutch does disengage but feels like it hesitates or feels sticky for lack of better term but only at low speed, rolling through a parking lot in first, pulling clutch in and out while rolling, ya know, waiting for cars to move out of your way.... Once in a while it’s hard to get neutral from second while coming to a stop too. Overall, it’s functional really but it’s bothersome when it just doesn’t feel right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Clutch is not slipping. Lever functions properly. I replaced the piston and seals on master cylinder. Hydraulics are tip top at this point. Push rod seat wear is possibility I suppose. The clutch does disengage but feels like it hesitates or feels sticky for lack of better term but only at low speed, rolling through a parking lot in first, pulling clutch in and out while rolling, ya know, waiting for cars to move out of your way.... Once in a while it’s hard to get neutral from second while coming to a stop too. Overall, it’s functional really but it’s bothersome when it just doesn’t feel right.
So it sounds like everything on the L-side is OK, including centre pushrod, which is not really clutch itself. Clutch is located on the R-side, and when clutch behaves badly, is it spongy, hard, judders, any noises at that particular moment???
Do you have service manual handy???
What oil and viscosity is inside??
Hm, have to think about it.

Clutch is not slipping. Lever functions properly. I replaced the piston and seals on master cylinder. Hydraulics are tip top at this point. Push rod seat wear is possibility I suppose. The clutch does disengage but feels like it hesitates or feels sticky for lack of better term but only at low speed, rolling through a parking lot in first, pulling clutch in and out while rolling, ya know, waiting for cars to move out of your way.... Once in a while it’s hard to get neutral from second while coming to a stop too. Overall, it’s functional really but it’s bothersome when it just doesn’t feel right.
So it sounds like everything on the L-side is OK, including centre pushrod, which is not really clutch itself. Clutch is located on the R-side, and when clutch behaves badly, is it spongy, hard, judders, any noises at that particular moment???
Do you have service manual handy???
What oil and viscosity is inside??
Hm, have to think about it.

No, no jitters, jumps, noises. It does have 53,000 plus miles. Maybe time to replace it?? I’ve ran Honda 10/30 or 10/40 all those miles.


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[GoldOxide_imp]

Possibly a link to a video of the worded action you described? Maybe a Forum member will identify with the behaviour.

Just a thought. Maybe too much to ask.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

Possibly a link to a video of the worded action you described? Maybe a Forum member will identify with the behaviour.

Just a thought. Maybe too much to ask.

Ahh, no. It’s hard to explain I guess.


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