the Ferret
Road warrior
Holy Cow nearly $1000 for a valve check. If none were out of spec they didn't even have to pull the cams.
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That's a really good point!Tev62_imp said:Valve checks are often misunderstood by owners and possibly many dealer mechanics too. When a manufacturer gives a clearance range, say 0.14mm - 0.20mm they intend you to leave the shims well alone, if when measured, they are anywhere within that range including the outer limits. They are expecting another check at the next interval and have allowed for extra wear. They are not concerned on the next check if the value ends up at 0.12 or 0.23, they have allowed for this and that is when they expect you to change the shims.
There are plenty of owners and dealers who seem to think the middle value of 0.17 (in my example) is the ideal target gap and re-shim to that. Taking this approach will be the difference between taking the camshafts out every single service interval and possibly not taking them out for the next 100,000 miles.
Personally, I would not be happy with the "everything was in spec". IMHO- if they can break down the cost of the work down to a single penny, and expect payment down to a single penny, they should also provide and document the findings/results for the work performed. Especially for $875.12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
(ouch) :dodgy:12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
Hello, expect a good amount, in addition to the tank you need to remove other stuff, the control units, the plastic cover and the pair pipes.Maturecheese_imp said:Just a quick question. I assume that checking the valve clearances involves removing the cam cover and using feeler gauges to check the clearances without removing anything like the camshafts as would be needed to replace them. I am asking as I want to know what is involved so that i can get some idea of what the cost is likely to be at my local dealer.
12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
DrewNJ_imp said:That's a really good point!Tev62_imp said:Valve checks are often misunderstood by owners and possibly many dealer mechanics too. When a manufacturer gives a clearance range, say 0.14mm - 0.20mm they intend you to leave the shims well alone, if when measured, they are anywhere within that range including the outer limits. They are expecting another check at the next interval and have allowed for extra wear. They are not concerned on the next check if the value ends up at 0.12 or 0.23, they have allowed for this and that is when they expect you to change the shims.
There are plenty of owners and dealers who seem to think the middle value of 0.17 (in my example) is the ideal target gap and re-shim to that. Taking this approach will be the difference between taking the camshafts out every single service interval and possibly not taking them out for the next 100,000 miles.
So many assume that your going to burn up valves immediately if the motor is run for any period of time with valves that may be slightly out of spec.
Personally, I would not be happy with the "everything was in spec". IMHO- if they can break down the cost of the work down to a single penny, and expect payment down to a single penny, they should also provide and document the findings/results for the work performed. Especially for $875.12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
The parts were the 5 head cover gaskets and the 8 seals for the head cover bolts. It looks like the charged approx 50% above the online pricing, which isn't all that surprising. I'm not sure how they calculate shop supplies and waste, but it seems to be what a lot of shops are doing these days. I wasn't provided with a written quote before they did the work; I made the appointment almost a month ago, and had a narrow window of time in which to get it done.PowerDubs_imp said:12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
What parts? What supplies? What waste?
Even better- question- what dealer?- so nobody makes the mistake of going there. You got ripped.
As far as 'if I had known'- they should have provided you with a written estimate before doing the work.
DrewNJ_imp said:That's a really good point!Tev62_imp said:Valve checks are often misunderstood by owners and possibly many dealer mechanics too. When a manufacturer gives a clearance range, say 0.14mm - 0.20mm they intend you to leave the shims well alone, if when measured, they are anywhere within that range including the outer limits. They are expecting another check at the next interval and have allowed for extra wear. They are not concerned on the next check if the value ends up at 0.12 or 0.23, they have allowed for this and that is when they expect you to change the shims.
There are plenty of owners and dealers who seem to think the middle value of 0.17 (in my example) is the ideal target gap and re-shim to that. Taking this approach will be the difference between taking the camshafts out every single service interval and possibly not taking them out for the next 100,000 miles.
So many assume that your going to burn up valves immediately if the motor is run for any period of time with valves that may be slightly out of spec.
Personally, I would not be happy with the "everything was in spec". IMHO- if they can break down the cost of the work down to a single penny, and expect payment down to a single penny, they should also provide and document the findings/results for the work performed. Especially for $875.12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
Agreed 100%
Thanks very much Enzo, that's very useful info and i will try this next time.Enzofour_imp said:Hello, expect a good amount, in addition to the tank you need to remove other stuff, the control units, the plastic cover and the pair pipes.Maturecheese_imp said:Just a quick question. I assume that checking the valve clearances involves removing the cam cover and using feeler gauges to check the clearances without removing anything like the camshafts as would be needed to replace them. I am asking as I want to know what is involved so that i can get some idea of what the cost is likely to be at my local dealer.
If it is just a clearance check, it is not necessary to extract the valve cover, just lift it by fixing it to the frame, because removing it is very difficult and requires removing and loosening something else and costs go up.

lol - Ensure to set-up "tamper evident sites" around the cam cover area to at least show they looked inside.PowerDubs_imp said:12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
What parts? What supplies? What waste?
Even better- question- what dealer?- so nobody makes the mistake of going there. You got ripped.
As far as 'if I had known'- they should have provided you with a written estimate before doing the work.
DrewNJ_imp said:That's a really good point!Tev62_imp said:Valve checks are often misunderstood by owners and possibly many dealer mechanics too. When a manufacturer gives a clearance range, say 0.14mm - 0.20mm they intend you to leave the shims well alone, if when measured, they are anywhere within that range including the outer limits. They are expecting another check at the next interval and have allowed for extra wear. They are not concerned on the next check if the value ends up at 0.12 or 0.23, they have allowed for this and that is when they expect you to change the shims.
There are plenty of owners and dealers who seem to think the middle value of 0.17 (in my example) is the ideal target gap and re-shim to that. Taking this approach will be the difference between taking the camshafts out every single service interval and possibly not taking them out for the next 100,000 miles.
So many assume that your going to burn up valves immediately if the motor is run for any period of time with valves that may be slightly out of spec.
Personally, I would not be happy with the "everything was in spec". IMHO- if they can break down the cost of the work down to a single penny, and expect payment down to a single penny, they should also provide and document the findings/results for the work performed. Especially for $875.12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
Agreed 100%
lol - Ensure to set-up "tamper evident sites" around the cam cover area to at least show they looked inside.GoldOxide_imp said:lol - Ensure to set-up "tamper evident sites" around the cam cover area to at least show they looked inside.PowerDubs_imp said:12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
What parts? What supplies? What waste?
Even better- question- what dealer?- so nobody makes the mistake of going there. You got ripped.
As far as 'if I had known'- they should have provided you with a written estimate before doing the work.
DrewNJ_imp said:That's a really good point!Tev62_imp said:Valve checks are often misunderstood by owners and possibly many dealer mechanics too. When a manufacturer gives a clearance range, say 0.14mm - 0.20mm they intend you to leave the shims well alone, if when measured, they are anywhere within that range including the outer limits. They are expecting another check at the next interval and have allowed for extra wear. They are not concerned on the next check if the value ends up at 0.12 or 0.23, they have allowed for this and that is when they expect you to change the shims.
There are plenty of owners and dealers who seem to think the middle value of 0.17 (in my example) is the ideal target gap and re-shim to that. Taking this approach will be the difference between taking the camshafts out every single service interval and possibly not taking them out for the next 100,000 miles.
So many assume that your going to burn up valves immediately if the motor is run for any period of time with valves that may be slightly out of spec.
Personally, I would not be happy with the "everything was in spec". IMHO- if they can break down the cost of the work down to a single penny, and expect payment down to a single penny, they should also provide and document the findings/results for the work performed. Especially for $875.12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
Agreed 100%


It's always a good idea. When I had my valves checked, the indy shop included a number of other things as a "major tuneup" service, which included oil/filter, brake fluids, air filter along with the valve check. It came out to just over $700. Their estimate also stipulated that it would cost more if any adjustments had to be made.PowerDubs_imp said:12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
What parts? What supplies? What waste?
Even better- question- what dealer?- so nobody makes the mistake of going there. You got ripped.
As far as 'if I had known'- they should have provided you with a written estimate before doing the work.
DrewNJ_imp said:That's a really good point!Tev62_imp said:Valve checks are often misunderstood by owners and possibly many dealer mechanics too. When a manufacturer gives a clearance range, say 0.14mm - 0.20mm they intend you to leave the shims well alone, if when measured, they are anywhere within that range including the outer limits. They are expecting another check at the next interval and have allowed for extra wear. They are not concerned on the next check if the value ends up at 0.12 or 0.23, they have allowed for this and that is when they expect you to change the shims.
There are plenty of owners and dealers who seem to think the middle value of 0.17 (in my example) is the ideal target gap and re-shim to that. Taking this approach will be the difference between taking the camshafts out every single service interval and possibly not taking them out for the next 100,000 miles.
So many assume that your going to burn up valves immediately if the motor is run for any period of time with valves that may be slightly out of spec.
Personally, I would not be happy with the "everything was in spec". IMHO- if they can break down the cost of the work down to a single penny, and expect payment down to a single penny, they should also provide and document the findings/results for the work performed. Especially for $875.12milesout_imp said:Picked mine up Thursday evening. I had asked for a breakdown of the clearances when i dropped it off, but didn't get one. Everything was in spec, but they didn't say what the observed clearances were. Total was $875; had I known that ahead of time, I probably would have opted to do it myself.
Labor: 5 hours @ 129.00 $645.00
Parts: 126.52
Shop supplies 38.06
waste disposal 12.90
tax 52.23
Total $874.71
Agreed 100%
The ferret_imp said:Back in 1978 I was the service manager at a local Honda Suzuki shop. A guy brought his Honda CX500 in for a 600 mile service (the valve clearances were supposed to be checked at 600 miles back then). I assigned a mechanic to it and when the job was done and the ticket turned back into me, I called the customer to come pick it up. When he came up, he paid the bill and then went out to his bike but soon returned. He asked if he could show me something. I went out to his bike with him and he had taped the valve cover gasket nuts which weren't un-taped indicating the valves had not been checked as required. Man, was I embarrassed. I immediately went back and confronted the mechanic who said he adjusted them. When I told him about the tape, he said he "listened to them and they sounded fine". I rolled the bike back in, made the mechanic check the valves right then and refunded the customers bill. I also docked the mechanic the amount he was paid for the job (they were on 60/40 back then) He was lucky I didn't fire him.
I trust the guy who works on my bike (I just visited him this afternoon) but... you never know.
PowerDubs_imp said:The ferret_imp said:Back in 1978 I was the service manager at a local Honda Suzuki shop. A guy brought his Honda CX500 in for a 600 mile service (the valve clearances were supposed to be checked at 600 miles back then). I assigned a mechanic to it and when the job was done and the ticket turned back into me, I called the customer to come pick it up. When he came up, he paid the bill and then went out to his bike but soon returned. He asked if he could show me something. I went out to his bike with him and he had taped the valve cover gasket nuts which weren't un-taped indicating the valves had not been checked as required. Man, was I embarrassed. I immediately went back and confronted the mechanic who said he adjusted them. When I told him about the tape, he said he "listened to them and they sounded fine". I rolled the bike back in, made the mechanic check the valves right then and refunded the customers bill. I also docked the mechanic the amount he was paid for the job (they were on 60/40 back then) He was lucky I didn't fire him.
I trust the guy who works on my bike (I just visited him this afternoon) but... you never know.
No offense- but the fact that you didn't fire him for such an offense means you should have been fired as well.
And by no offense- I simply mean facts are facts.
I'm a black & white thought kind of guy. I know what I would do with my employees, and what I would want if I were a customer. This situation has no excuse for both levels of behavior / choice.
I can't possibly imagine anyone going back in the following weeks / months and being told "we talked to him"....
I admire that...but I have to be realistic. There ain't no way I'm doing my own work on my cars--simple things, ok, but otherwise...I just have no interest. I have a mechanic brother I always consult. By phone he can give me the low down so that I can make good decisions.Gone in 60_imp said:These stories are why I do my own work on my cars and bikes.
Even so, one can still get ripped off. I changed our CRV’s plugs at 100k. Turns out I got counterfeit NGK plugs, which melted within 10k miles.