Chain lube

[peterbaron]

GO is the most experienced with this system ( 2 bikes if not more)
Very sure, he will chime in..

 

[rboe]

It's my understanding, from reading the manual, the only time oil flows is when the bike is traveling. As the road surface perturbs the suspension those vibrations cause the valve in the holding tank to move and release oil. No vibes, no oil comes out. So no need to shut it down after a ride.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

It's my understanding, from reading the manual, the only time oil flows is when the bike is traveling. As the road surface perturbs the suspension those vibrations cause the valve in the holding tank to move and release oil. No vibes, no oil comes out. So no need to shut it down after a ride.

Very nicely done Rboe. I like the way you have positioned your reservoir.

You are correct: A flow "pulse" is initiated on each meaningful road surface bump. The amount ejected is defined by the size of your valve opening (dictated by turning the valve so many turns).

So in theory: If the surfaces you ride are perfect, then no oil will flow.

Since you are in lovely Arizona, you may discover the standard oil will flow well and possibly fling easier off the chain. You can either acquire the hot weather oil Tutoro sells, dial down the valve value (i.e. less oil flow), or put in a heavier grade synthetic oil into the reservoir. I used 5W40.

 

[rboe]

"Lovely Arizona" - Apparently you've never been here in the summer.:angel:

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

"Lovely Arizona" - Apparently you've never been here in the summer.:angel:

Oh, I have been to Arizona enough times - including summer. It is my second favourite state - still.

 

[rboe]

The older I get the less tolerant I am of the heat.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

The older I get the less tolerant I am of the heat.

Totally get it. Being a Canuck you'd think we'd all love the heat come the summer season. Well, southern Ontario get profusely humid, and not unlike GA and FL. In any case, I can do without the sweat glands working overtime. I prefer the "dry heat", if I had to choose a heat. I will leave it at that because we can get into fresh, cool and clean water sources, insects, lush green plants and desert dust.

But in terms of CB1100 chain lube, I really wished Honda would bring back a 21st century shaft drive implementation.

 

[Offroad]

The older I get the less tolerant I am of the heat.

90 is about my limit..... I would seriously rather ride in the rain and than ride in 90 degree temps.

 

[rboe]

I've had a couple Guzzi's and naturally they have shaft drive. Shaft drives have their failure modes and maintenance needs; not so different from chain (and with chain, when you replace the chain and sprockets you have completed a total overhaul of the drive system at a lot cheaper price point than a shaft: Although you will do it more often than for a shaft, assuming you keep the bike long enough).

With the newer o-ring chains I don't think the shafts really hold that much of an advantage over chain drive. But hey, we have choices!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I've had a couple Guzzi's and naturally they have shaft drive. Shaft drives have their failure modes and maintenance needs; not so different from chain (and with chain, when you replace the chain and sprockets you have completed a total overhaul of the drive system at a lot cheaper price point than a shaft: Although you will do it more often than for a shaft, assuming you keep the bike long enough).

With the newer o-ring chains I don't think the shafts really hold that much of an advantage over chain drive. But hey, we have choices!

For what it's worth, I've had four Japanese final shaft drives and zero issues. The only technical issue was the Yamaha shafts and their bounce effect, but it never seemed to effect my handling.

 

[MrBob_imp]

Fort Nine does some good research on different aspects of motorcycling. This one on chain lube is his usual thorough work.

 

[Whoops]

With O-ring chains, a light lube like DuPont teflon works great. I use that and also the DuPont Silicone/Teflon lube in the orange can. Pretty much anything that doesn't have a heavy oil base will go a long way towards keeping things clean. The thick, heavy, dirt collecting lubes of the old days are for standard unsealed chains. O-rings don't need it.

Reminds me of when I used to clean the chain before lubing it on my 98 CBR600.

Used to rotate the wheel, thus slipping the chain through an old T-shirt with WD-40 on it held around the chain. One day I was in a rush to go back out, so I put the bike in first at idle and tried the same technique. What I'd created was the worlds first Honda meat grinder with a 599cc inline four!

Needless to say, the t-shirt got snagged, dragged round the sprocket and chopped the top of my thumb off! I was surprisingly calm after seeing my nice white bone poking out. I pushed the bike back down to the garage, wiped some of the blood off the tank. Then walked to hospital with my arm aloft like I was saying "please Darwin, pick me!"

Seriously? Dayum!

Thankfully Darwin ignored you. Did the docs manage to reattach your thumb?

I've had a couple Guzzi's and naturally they have shaft drive. Shaft drives have their failure modes and maintenance needs; not so different from chain (and with chain, when you replace the chain and sprockets you have completed a total overhaul of the drive system at a lot cheaper price point than a shaft: Although you will do it more often than for a shaft, assuming you keep the bike long enough).

With the newer o-ring chains I don't think the shafts really hold that much of an advantage over chain drive. But hey, we have choices!

If it weren't for the frequency and that it is such a messy job, chains would be no big deal. I do loathe the mess it makes which means either I am OCD or I am just plain doing it wrong.

 

[emptysea]

With O-ring chains, a light lube like DuPont teflon works great. I use that and also the DuPont Silicone/Teflon lube in the orange can. Pretty much anything that doesn't have a heavy oil base will go a long way towards keeping things clean. The thick, heavy, dirt collecting lubes of the old days are for standard unsealed chains. O-rings don't need it.

Reminds me of when I used to clean the chain before lubing it on my 98 CBR600.

Used to rotate the wheel, thus slipping the chain through an old T-shirt with WD-40 on it held around the chain. One day I was in a rush to go back out, so I put the bike in first at idle and tried the same technique. What I'd created was the worlds first Honda meat grinder with a 599cc inline four!

Needless to say, the t-shirt got snagged, dragged round the sprocket and chopped the top of my thumb off! I was surprisingly calm after seeing my nice white bone poking out. I pushed the bike back down to the garage, wiped some of the blood off the tank. Then walked to hospital with my arm aloft like I was saying "please Darwin, pick me!"

Seriously? Dayum!

Thankfully Darwin ignored you. Did the docs manage to reattach your thumb?

I've had a couple Guzzi's and naturally they have shaft drive. Shaft drives have their failure modes and maintenance needs; not so different from chain (and with chain, when you replace the chain and sprockets you have completed a total overhaul of the drive system at a lot cheaper price point than a shaft: Although you will do it more often than for a shaft, assuming you keep the bike long enough).

With the newer o-ring chains I don't think the shafts really hold that much of an advantage over chain drive. But hey, we have choices!

If it weren't for the frequency and that it is such a messy job, chains would be no big deal. I do loathe the mess it makes which means either I am OCD or I am just plain doing it wrong.

Thankfully Darwin ignored you. Did the docs manage to reattach your thumb?
Neither Tortuga nor his thumb have been seen around these parts since 11-27-2014. (note that The Ferret is not the author of the original post)

 

[rboe]

A buddy with a DR-350 no longer lubes his chain. He's gone though several chains (and DR-350's) and finds that he gets roughly the same life, lubed or not. So he just rides. I want to say he gets about 14K per chain and sprocket set.

After watching Fortnine's video on chain lube I brush on rear end lube on my chains every 500 miles (save for the CB that now has a chain luber). I don't get nearly the mess like I did with "real" chain lubes. A wee bit of cleaner, brushed on oil and life is good.

Now that works for me; I fully expect your use case (and who ever is reading this) will dictate something else - but some people may find this useful. In the end you do what works for you and look for options when it doesn't.

 

[j3gq_imp]

Snake oil ? I really wonder if Rboe's buddy is right. Chain lube could well be a product in the category we call "snake oil". Hard to test the benefits, but since the very idea is plausible and compelling, and the product so cheap (per 100 miles), we may just all be too happy to buy it, use it, and have it sloshed around.
Since Honda does require it in their user manual, I'd be really interesting to hear if anybody else has stopped using chain oil and with what results.

 

[Tev62]

When Regina (or someone else) releases the "maintenance free" chain in our size I'll go with that when it is time for replacement, the brand of chain lube really won't matter after that.

 

[peterbaron]

^^ + 1^^

 

[Stichill]

Very nice looking Stichill, the real magic for me is that somehow the oil spreads evenly ( at least it seems like it ) to the other side of the chain, i cannot work that one out but it impresses me every time, love the photography too man

Thanks, max! Tutoro extolls the ability of the oil to spread evenly across both sides of the chain. They even take pains to say that their testing shows that two nozzles (one on each side of the sprocket) are not necessary / provide no extra benefit.

To get decent closeups (with an iPhone at least) I've learned to stand back a bit and use the zoom feature to get a closer shot that stays in focus.

Thanks, max! Tutoro extolls the ability of the oil to spread evenly across both sides of the chain. They even take pains to say that their testing shows that two nozzles (one on each side of the sprocket) are not necessary / provide no extra benefit.

To get decent closeups (with an iPhone at least) I've learned to stand back a bit and use the zoom feature to get a closer shot that stays in focus.
I noticed a little spatter on the wheel in the first pic but now that you have it dialed in are you noticing any oil flinging off?

Yes, there's fling. But, being a light oil, it wipes right off as compared to heavy chain lubes that stick to the rim even better than the way they were supposed to stick to the chain.

According to Tutoro, some fling is desirable. That's how the oil transports the road grime off the chain.

Hmmm....I might have to consider this. Add to the upgrade list although with multiple bikes that list can take a while to get through. Thanks for the info!

One more question. Is it always "on" or do you need to turn it off and on for each ride?

Sorry, been on a ride in Utah and just got back.

No, it only generates pressure/flow when there's mechanical motion. It is necessary to turn it off when trailering, however, to avoid a puddle under the sprocket.

Installed the oiler today (turns out I had ordered the standard oil - not high temp). Took longer faffing about going to Ace Hardware.




And with the bag attached

What looks like salt deposits, are - hard water deposits from the sprinkler this morning. Oops.

Nice job, Rboe!

 

[Stichill]

The Tutoro chain oiler acquitted itself nicely during my Utah ride on dusty, sandy gravel and dirt roads.

Note clean rollers and wetted O-rings:

Back home after a quick wipe-down with chain cleaner:

Oil use during 1200 miles, with about 100 miles on washboarded gravel roads:

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Looks great Stichill. I can relate to your usage experience.