CB goes in for annual physical with pictures

[Frulk_imp]

Lot's of ground to cover in this post.

I think we still have a thread going about trailering a bike and tie down points and so forth. So, I loaded the bike into a small 5X8 trailer I picked up from a friend.

The ramp I picked up at Harbor Freight. I never buy anything mechanical/electrical from them but I will buy things like this. The load rating is for 1,100 pounds. However, when I rolled the CB on it for the first time there was some (in my estimation) significant flex. Afterwards I noticed a few heads off pop rivets laying on the ground.

So I fixed that:

Then I REALLY fixed it by bolting 3 boxed IRON rails underneath. Heavy as heck now but pretty solid.

Inside the trailer is a removable chock with 2X6's bolted to it to give it a wider stance for increased stability. Tie downs are anchored into metal sub frame of trailer. I move the chock between my trailers depending on what my needs are at the time.

Dropped the CB off for new plugs, valve adjustment as required , rear brake pad replacement and brake fluid flush. estimated at $600.

Middle aged Shop tech rolled bike inside the store, on the main floor and said "Never seen one of these before, this is a looker, going right in the place of honor in the middle"

Better shots of bikes they had in there from last time:

Also dropped K&H seat off at upholstery shop and waiting for them to call back on what repair costs will be on the seam that's separating.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Frulk: I like your 5'x8' trailer coverage. Thanks for the details. The ramp ordeal was particularly interesting. What was your pull vehicle?

 

[LongRanger_imp]

This isn't Garrett Honda in Nephi, is it?

 

[Frulk_imp]

Nope. Moto Station. Kind of a specialty shop. That I understand they have mechanics on staff full time and when a specialty bike comes in they call those members that know how to work on them. They took care of my Guzzi and seem to be pretty competent. Mostly guys in their late 30's/mid 40's that I've seen. They have bikes in there that are very race oriented and probably run on track days at Miller Motorsports park or whatever it's called now. Numerous Ducs, some Beemers etc. sitting around.
GO asks "What was your pull vehicle?"

Full size pickup. 32 Valve V8. Truck doesn't even know trailer/bike is back there.

However, as light as that set-up is you could pull it with a small SUV/sedan no problem.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Nope. Moto Station. Kind of a specialty shop. That I understand they have mechanics on staff full time and when a specialty bike comes in they call those members that know how to work on them. They took care of my Guzzi and seem to be pretty competent. Mostly guys in their late 30's/mid 40's that I've seen. They have bikes in there that are very race oriented and probably run on track days at Miller Motorsports park or whatever it's called now. Numerous Ducs, some Beemers etc. sitting around.
GO asks "What was your pull vehicle?"

Full size pickup. 32 Valve V8. Truck doesn't even know trailer/bike is back there.

However, as light as that set-up is you could pull it with a small SUV/sedan no problem.

Awesome, thanks.

 

[clearviewx]

Lot's of ground to cover in this post.

I think we still have a thread going about trailering a bike and tie down points and so forth. So, I loaded the bike into a small 5X8 trailer I picked up from a friend.

The ramp I picked up at Harbor Freight. I never buy anything mechanical/electrical from them but I will buy things like this. The load rating is for 1,100 pounds. However, when I rolled the CB on it for the first time there was some (in my estimation) significant flex. Afterwards I noticed a few heads off pop rivets laying on the ground.

So I fixed that:

Then I REALLY fixed it by bolting 3 boxed IRON rails underneath. Heavy as heck now but pretty solid.

Inside the trailer is a removable chock with 2X6's bolted to it to give it a wider stance for increased stability. Tie downs are anchored into metal sub frame of trailer. I move the chock between my trailers depending on what my needs are at the time.

Dropped the CB off for new plugs, valve adjustment as required , rear brake pad replacement and brake fluid flush. estimated at $600.

Middle aged Shop tech rolled bike inside the store, on the main floor and said "Never seen one of these before, this is a looker, going right in the place of honor in the middle"

Better shots of bikes they had in there from last time:

Also dropped K&H seat off at upholstery shop and waiting for them to call back on what repair costs will be on the seam that's separating.

You have any side shot of the trailer?

 

[Frulk_imp]

Here you go. Very small and light unit. There's enough headroom that you can ride the bike in sitting on it.

 

[rboe]

Did you account for bi-metal (dissimilar metal) corrosion when you attached the iron to the aluminum?

If not, I suspect an oak, birch, ash (thinking inexpensive hardwoods here) would add enough strength and remove the corrosion problem. And weigh less to boot!

A thrid (sp error on purpose - long story) option: Rivet and bond some 18ga aluminum sheet to the bottom of the ramps (think the bottom web of your I beam) to carry the tension loads.

Or get a lighter bike......:rofl:

 

[Frulk_imp]

Bi-metal corrosion? That's a thing Rboe? I struggle with Pilsner vs. Lager on most days.

All seriousness aside. I have three trailers currently and am looking to cull the pack by selling this one and another small open trailer. Looking to end up eventually with my current 7X14 flatbed for atv's, hauling stuff to the dump etc. and an enclosed 6.5X14 for the bikes with a rear drop gate and side door.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Google galvanic corrosion for details.

 

[Frulk_imp]

Lord Popgun, I'm familiar with the concept. I actually had considered wood and would have gone that way had I realized how darn heavy that iron is. But, by the time the galvanic corrosion is at the point where its a problem that trailer will be gone. At that point I'll pull the rails off the bottom and use the ramp for loading lawn equipment in the back of the truck (as none of that approaches 800 pounds like the bike and with me on it does) :blush:

 

[clearviewx]

Here you go. Very small and light unit. There's enough headroom that you can ride the bike in sitting on it.

Thank you.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Lord Popgun, I'm familiar with the concept. I actually had considered wood and would have gone that way had I realized how darn heavy that iron is. But, by the time the galvanic corrosion is at the point where its a problem that trailer will be gone. At that point I'll pull the rails off the bottom and use the ramp for loading lawn equipment in the back of the truck (as none of that approaches 800 pounds like the bike and with me on it does) :blush:

Is corrosion even a thing in the desert states?

 

[Lord Popgun]

I’m guessing it isn’t to bad in the desert. Ever see the pics of all the old airplanes they keep out there. Its mind boggling.

Sorry Sir Frulk. Didn’t mean to insult your intelligence. I’ve just never heard it as bi-metal corrosion and thought maybe you hadn’t either.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

RE bi-metal corrosion:

Depending on context, some people may refer to it as sacrificial anode protection. The sacrificial metal is more reactive, has more negative electro-potential than the metal it is protecting. Hence, the anode (one of the two dissimilar metals) is much more likely to corrode. However, I believe it has to be in the presence of an electrolyte like rain water and earth salts?

This is a reason why so many vehicle exhaust shields are found at road sides in the north and eastern states and provinces. The steel securing hardware did not fail, but the aluminum shield attached to the securing hardware corroded away.

 

[rboe]

I think I learned about it in A&P school as bi-metal corrosion. In the marine industry it's known as galvanic corrosion. I just could not remember the other term. Thanks for bringing it up. :worship:

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Sounds like everybody is about on the same page. :beerchug:

 

[Cormanus]

Sacrificial anodes are used extensively in marine applications to stop engines and other fittings corroding rapidly. It always amazes me to see how much of an anode can vanish in a year.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I use to manage them on concrete freeway bridges, even try to slow the reaction with opposing current source power supplies. The truth of the matter is so much salt is poured on Canadian roads/bridges that anodes and power supplies cannot keep up. The steel re-bar ultimately expands and delaminates anyway. That is why modern re-bar is heavily epoxy coated in concrete road beds. This sounds like for the same reason on especially ocean faring marine applications.

 

[Csory_imp]

I'm with Rboe here: add an aluminum beam (either T or I) using rivets, or - even better - TIG welding it to the underside. If possible, use the same alloy as the original material is. That would take care of galvanic corrosion