CAUTION WHEN CHOOSING OIL

[CIP57_imp]

Just did my first oil change. I have been using Rotella T6 5-40 synthetic with a MO rating in my ST and XX and put it in the CB. Warming it up on the center stand after the change to fill the filter I noticed a knock in the lower end. Not a valve tick from the top. Taking it off the center stand onto the side stand it increased from the right side. Knock went away and went for a short ride 20mi. I noticed the recovery in the site glass was very slow. Put her on the center stand and ran it for about 10 minutes looking at the site glass. No oil in the window on level ground, turned off the motor and waited at least 30 seconds for oil to appear and then slowly inched up tho the full mark. The factory oil came out like water, this came out much thicker. This oil is much to heavy for this bike, either moving to slow through the oil cooler or returning from the top end.

Went to Dealer for Honda 10-30 synthetic & new filter. . Ran engine again on center stand even when cold you could see the oil level in the site glass bathing the lower end and when I turned the motor off return to the full mark was just about 10-15 seconds. Quite evident this bike requires a very thin motor oil.

Needless to say all bikes received oil changes today.

Please be careful and aware when using different oil then recommended.

I have read through the post in my thread. This is a HELP THREAD has nothing to do with what oil you should use or to promote same. I'm not a newbie, been around the block a few times and belong to a few forums. I only post things that have meat to them and may be helpful to others.

 

[the Ferret]

Interesting.

I use Honda oil in my Hondas and Honda filters too,( always have) but in 30,000 miles in my FZ-1 all I ever used was Shell Rotella T 5w40 and Walmart 7317 Supertech Filters.

 

[Huladog_imp]

Very interesting, too.

For the first oil change I went with Shell Rotella dino 15w-40 since its always warm here.

Have had good results using conventional Rotella in a Suzuki Bandit 1250 and second generation Yamaha FZ-1 and I was just researching switching to the full synthetic after 5,000 miles.

Will have to check out how the oil drains down after shutdown now.

UPDATE: This got me worried enough to go outside to the garage to check the oil level on the center stand (right on the mid point in the glass), crank up the motor (oil sucked into the system, not super fast but rapid enough), but yes after shut down I kept checking the glass and only after 3 minutes did I see some of the oil start pooling at the bottom of the glass.

I know the Shell Rotella both syn and conventional are good quality oils so must be something about the viscosity of the 40. Think I better go to Lowe's where I just spotted the conventional 10w-30 available to do a quick oil change before I ride again, then again maybe I'll go to O'Reilly's where they carry the Castrol motorcycle specific oils.

Just changed the oil and have maybe 100 -200 miles on it but I'm going to be safe and go with the next lighter grade of oil. Thankfully its still in the upper 80's here so maybe that's why I never heard any knocks. I stuck my ear right up to the engine just now when I did the quick test and no knocking so I hope I'm lucky.

Aloha,
Huladog

 

[Yoyodyne_imp]

FYI, ideally when you do an oil change you should try to manually fill the oil filter with as much oil as you can (without making a mess) before you install the filter. Then, after you've filled the engine with the proper amount of oil, turn over the engine with the kill switch off (if you have a bike that allows you to do this) to build up oil pressure (you'll know you're good to go when the oil pressure light goes off). Then flick the kill switch off and start the engine as per usual.

FWIW, I use Rotella T 5W-40 in my Honda Hawk GT and have had no issues.

 

[Deanohh_imp]

Very interesting, too.

For the first oil change I went with Shell Rotella dino 15w-40 since its always warm here.

Have had good results using conventional Rotella in a Suzuki Bandit 1250 and second generation Yamaha FZ-1 and I was just researching switching to the full synthetic after 5,000 miles.

Will have to check out how the oil drains down after shutdown now.

UPDATE: This got me worried enough to go outside to the garage to check the oil level on the center stand (right on the mid point in the glass), crank up the motor (oil sucked into the system, not super fast but rapid enough), but yes after shut down I kept checking the glass and only after 3 minutes did I see some of the oil start pooling at the bottom of the glass.

I know the Shell Rotella both syn and conventional are good quality oils so must be something about the viscosity of the 40. Think I better go to Lowe's where I just spotted the conventional 10w-30 available to do a quick oil change before I ride again, then again maybe I'll go to O'Reilly's where they carry the Castrol motorcycle specific oils.

Just changed the oil and have maybe 100 -200 miles on it but I'm going to be safe and go with the next lighter grade of oil. Thankfully its still in the upper 80's here so maybe that's why I never heard any knocks. I stuck my ear right up to the engine just now when I did the quick test and no knocking so I hope I'm lucky.

Aloha,
Huladog

use a length of heater hose up to your ear and probe the engine like a doctor and stethoscope.... You'll hear all kinds of stuff.

 

[Randy B]

FYI, ideally when you do an oil change you should try to manually fill the oil filter with as much oil as you can (without making a mess) before you install the filter. Then, after you've filled the engine with the proper amount of oil, turn over the engine with the kill switch off (if you have a bike that allows you to do this) to build up oil pressure (you'll know you're good to go when the oil pressure light goes off). Then flick the kill switch off and start the engine as per usual.

FWIW, I use Rotella T 5W-40 in my Honda Hawk GT and have had no issues.

Not possible on the CB1100.

 

[Obliviontoad]

Went full synthetic on my first change. Noticed a difference quite quickly. Now just need to amortize the cost of 4 quarts of Honda Synthetic every service interval.

 

[Randy B]

I'm not worried about the cost increase because not only will the fuel mileage be increased, but more importantly the longevity of the engine and transmission will be greatly increased. That makes it worth it to me.

 

[CIP57_imp]

FYI, ideally when you do an oil change you should try to manually fill the oil filter with as much oil as you can (without making a mess) before you install the filter. Then, after you've filled the engine with the proper amount of oil, turn over the engine with the kill switch off (if you have a bike that allows you to do this) to build up oil pressure (you'll know you're good to go when the oil pressure light goes off). Then flick the kill switch off and start the engine as per usual.

FWIW, I use Rotella T 5W-40 in my Honda Hawk GT and have had no issues.

Been using rotella for some time, just doesn't work with this motor. Lower end knock came 5 minutes after startup nothing to do with the build of oil pressure.

 

[meowguy_imp]

Oil is simply beyond my ability to fully understand. Since Honda Motor Co. has people they pay specifically for this purpose and who know what oil to use in this bike, why would you not just use what they recommend and your dealer sells?

 

[wildezt_imp]

Honda HP4S 10W30.full syn.. great stuff..!.. tried amsoil 10w30 for a week...dint like it..shifting got tight after a few minutes ride.and it smells bad after a ride...drained it all out, replaced filter and put HP4S 10W30 full syn in less than 7 days after the amsoil change...shifts like butter, the bike loves that Honda blood..

 

[CA200_imp]

After selling motorcycle oil for 15 years I always stick to the name brands. I am running Spectro full syn. 10W40.
After 3500 miles I have started to touch 57-58 mpg. I have only had one tank below 50 mpg. The first one.

 

[Yoyodyne_imp]

Oil is simply beyond my ability to fully understand. Since Honda Motor Co. has people they pay specifically for this purpose and who know what oil to use in this bike, why would you not just use what they recommend and your dealer sells?

By that logic, why does Honda even bother to sell HP4? They say GN4 meets the requirements of the CB1100, so what's the point of offering HP4? If it is "better" than GN4, isn't it perfectly possible that a third-party manufacturer could also sell an oil that is "better" than GN4?

 

[OldF7Guy_imp]

Just remember also Honda is not in the business of making motor oil. The make motorcycles, cars ect but just bid out the oil contracts and that changes from time to time so you really dont know what your getting. Im not saying its bad at all but its not the holy grail either...... There are better oils for less money.

I cant believe I weighed in on an oil thread.

 

[Yoyodyne_imp]

I've posted this link before, I highly recommend people read the article to gain a better understanding of the issues that influence the choice of a motorcycle oil:

Motor Oil Information

There is an enormous amount of useful information in this piece; for example, did you know that the phrase "full synthetic" means something very different than it did 20 years ago? Here's the quote from the linked article:

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics.

 

[Inline4_imp]

Just remember also Honda is not in the business of making motor oil. The make motorcycles, cars ect but just bid out the oil contracts and that changes from time to time so you really dont know what your getting. Im not saying its bad at all but its not the holy grail either...... There are better oils for less money.

I cant believe I weighed in on an oil thread.

Hehe. I was wondering when some one was going to say that.
This will be my only reply to this thread.

 

[CIP57_imp]

It's the additive package that creates the trouble.
[/QUOTE]


Agree, its from a thick stock base which does not allow the fast flow needed esp. in this motorcycle.

 

[Andor_imp]

Hello guys, I just got back from a long trip with the CB1100, I have equipped the bike with side brackets and rear trunk, tank bag with a total of seventy kilograms of bagagli.Sono left Italy through Austria, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Norway, Nordkapp coming with a total of 8300 km in eleven days. At the start I replaced oil filter and oil using the gradation of 10W50. The bike went very well no oil consumption to ritorno.Ho only had one problem ..... if it can be defined, the tires are flattened because of too much straight road but I'll change before possibile.Sono very happy with the cb 1100 models party that had 465 km and came back with about 8800 km, I lubricated the chain with spray grease every 500 km, the chain is in excellent condition, I adjusted a little and I changed the oil using a 15w40 and doing another 300 miles. What can I say .... if you destroy the engine after a few kilometers why not use the oil that Honda recommends mom, it means that its motors are not good ..... but I think, indeed I am sure that is so.
I do not spend much money for the oil, I look at the specs and if they are for gasoline and diesel engines use them without fear and I have never had any problem with the motors and clutches of the Japanese bikes, even after fifteen years and over fifty thousand km, I think that if you use the clutch ..... well you may take much longer.
I change oil often even if I made a few km, perhaps for this reason I have never had any problems....

 

[the Ferret]

Wow sounds like quite the trip Andor. Hope you took pictures and can post some up with a ride report.

 

[jmc1100_imp]

I am on my 2nd oil change with t6 It is Jaso MA rated, nothing unusual to report..I have not experienced those symptoms, sight glass fills right up after shut down..no unusual noises, but I'm worried....