NightRider_imp
Been there
No. But you should reconsider, if you use STP it will stay in the pan and never wear out. It will be your very last oil change. How about them apples. I should work for Honda.
CAUTION WHEN CHOOSING OIL
- Thread starter CIP57_imp
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ClassicVW_imp
Road warrior
How did he know that was pure STP in the pan? Maybe the vehicle owner already had problems and used the STP in an attempt to lengthen the life of the car. Maybe the gunk in the pan was just engine gunk?Lord Popgun_imp said:Back in the day my brother told me he pulled pans off cars that used STP and it was all in the pan. Does that sound like a real thing?
And to stay on topic, I use Honda oil. Am I a bad person?
NightRider_imp
Been there
How did he know that was pure STP in the pan? Maybe the vehicle owner already had problems and used the STP in an attempt to lengthen the life of the car. Maybe the gunk in the pan was just engine gunk?ClassicVW_imp said:How did he know that was pure STP in the pan? Maybe the vehicle owner already had problems and used the STP in an attempt to lengthen the life of the car. Maybe the gunk in the pan was just engine gunk?Lord Popgun_imp said:Back in the day my brother told me he pulled pans off cars that used STP and it was all in the pan. Does that sound like a real thing?
And to stay on topic, I use Honda oil. Am I a bad person?
My engine won't start now. There's a bunch of engine gunk in the pan. Am I a bad person?
How did he know that was pure STP in the pan? Maybe the vehicle owner already had problems and used the STP in an attempt to lengthen the life of the car. Maybe the gunk in the pan was just engine gunk?NightRider_imp said:How did he know that was pure STP in the pan? Maybe the vehicle owner already had problems and used the STP in an attempt to lengthen the life of the car. Maybe the gunk in the pan was just engine gunk?ClassicVW_imp said:How did he know that was pure STP in the pan? Maybe the vehicle owner already had problems and used the STP in an attempt to lengthen the life of the car. Maybe the gunk in the pan was just engine gunk?Lord Popgun_imp said:Back in the day my brother told me he pulled pans off cars that used STP and it was all in the pan. Does that sound like a real thing?
And to stay on topic, I use Honda oil. Am I a bad person?
My engine won't start now. There's a bunch of engine gunk in the pan. Am I a bad person?
My engine won't start now. There's a bunch of engine gunk in the pan. Am I a bad person?
Use two hair driers.
SamEdward_imp
First service completed
I change my oil like ever 6 months
LiveToRide_imp
Running like a top
I use wd40.
ClassicVW_imp
Road warrior
Marvel Mystery Oil for me. :biker: I'd tell you why, but then it wouldn't be a mystery! :rofl:
NightRider_imp
Been there
I know that's right.ClassicVW_imp said:
flynrider
Road warrior
Hey F7,Flynrider_imp said:Hey F7,OldF7Guy_imp said:Oil analysis is the key. I ran a series on my CB750 several years ago and learned some equally surprising things. Mainly that an air cooled motorcycle that operates in 100+ temps for about 6 months out of the year will cook/churn a multigrade dino oil to its base weight in less than 2K miles. The combination of high operating temps and shearing by the tranny gears is pretty brutal on the polymer chains that are responsible for keeping the oil thick at higher temps.Flynrider_imp said:Oil analysis is the key. I ran a series on my CB750 several years ago and learned some equally surprising things. Mainly that an air cooled motorcycle that operates in 100+ temps for about 6 months out of the year will cook/churn a multigrade dino oil to its base weight in less than 2K miles. The combination of high operating temps and shearing by the tranny gears is pretty brutal on the polymer chains that are responsible for keeping the oil thick at higher temps.Rboe_imp said:Years ago I had extremely good luck with Golden Spectro but I also changed oil and filter every 2000 miles. I think that had as much to do with the excellent shape the motor was in than the oil I choose.
The Guzzi guys really like Rotella but the engine and tranny are separate with different oils so no clutch worries. After owning a Guzzi I think one could make a very good case to keep the engine and tranny separate. It would be easier to do on the inline fours if the motor was length wise like the Triumph Rocket or the Henderson Four but that makes for long bikes (which is fine by me; but I got long arms).
My biggest gripe about the oil change; the weather is conspiring to keep me off the darn bike so I can get the miles on to justify its' first oil change. It's enough to make you shake your cane against the sky.
One of the better oil threads I've ever read was over on ThumperTalk.com. Some guy went through a bunch of oils (and miles; the data was staggering) and sent the oil out to be analyzed. Turns out, on the XR650L, with that four valve head, without an oil cooler ANY oil was toast at around 500 miles. He installed an oil cooler. I will too.
But like anything else; if you don't know squawt; stick to the manual. The more you know the more you can experiment and still be safe. Me; I'm going to experiment with chain lube oil for now. :excited:
But a hearty thank you to the original poster regarding Rotella oil. Good to know and fills in wee bit of darkness.
As a result, I cut my oil change intervals to 1500 mi. on the CB750. I went to a synthetic on the CB11, as it is supposed to hold its properties better under high temps. Of course, I won't know for sure until I get several samples analyzed.
If you really want to know what's going on inside your engine, a consistent series of oil analysis will tell you more than any post in a forum.
As a result, I cut my oil change intervals to 1500 mi. on the CB750. I went to a synthetic on the CB11, as it is supposed to hold its properties better under high temps. Of course, I won't know for sure until I get several samples analyzed.
If you really want to know what's going on inside your engine, a consistent series of oil analysis will tell you more than any post in a forum.
I hate to weigh back in on an oil thread but have been bored over the winter. Appreciate the info fly. Im well aware of the benifits of oil analysis but I am not smart enough to understand them in their totality. What oil do you run in the 750?
I was changing mine at about 2K miles give or take just hoping to be on the safe side with Shell Rotella 15w 40. I was planning on doing the same thing on the 1100. Have not changed it yet. I know you know your stuff if your a pilot because planes are extremely well cared for.
Tell me what you run in each bike and your intervals on changes. Thanks. I think we are maybe on the only members here that have NIghthawks and a CB11 to boot.
I'm running Rotella T6 synthetic in both bikes now, due to the heat/shear related issues I had before. Both bikes ran on T6 through the hottest part of the summer and I just received a couple of test kits from Blackstone, so I'll soon know how it held up over 3-3.5K miles of hot operation.
Overall, the regular 15w-40 Rotella had no problems going 3K miles in the cooler months, it was just the super hot summer time temps here that were breaking it down faster. If the T6 looks like it held up in the heat, I'm planning on just using it in both bikes year round and changing at around 3K.
I'm running Rotella T6 synthetic in both bikes now, due to the heat/shear related issues I had before. Both bikes ran on T6 through the hottest part of the summer and I just received a couple of test kits from Blackstone, so I'll soon know how it held up over 3-3.5K miles of hot operation.
Overall, the regular 15w-40 Rotella had no problems going 3K miles in the cooler months, it was just the super hot summer time temps here that were breaking it down faster. If the T6 looks like it held up in the heat, I'm planning on just using it in both bikes year round and changing at around 3K.
Update : I got the test results back from Blackstone and the news was good. After running all summer (and fall) in some pretty ugly temps, 3600 miles total, the switch to synthetic Rotella did the trick. The viscosity reading in the report was actually higher than expected. Much better than my results with the dino version.
That was on the CB750, which actually racked up more miles last summer, due to the CB11 needing a tire. It included a brutal 800 mile roundtrip across the desert to San Diego (~85 mph at 110 degrees). The CB11 racked up fewer miles over the summer, but I'll be sending a sample from that one just to be sure, and also to establish a baseline for future tests.
Ack-CB11_imp
Road warrior
Flynrider Wrote:
Update : I got the test results back from Blackstone and the news was good. After running all summer (and fall) in some pretty ugly temps, 3600 miles total, the switch to synthetic Rotella did the trick. The viscosity reading in the report was actually higher than expected. Much better than my results with the dino version.
[/QUOTE]
What did the viscosity @100c burn down to?
Update : I got the test results back from Blackstone and the news was good. After running all summer (and fall) in some pretty ugly temps, 3600 miles total, the switch to synthetic Rotella did the trick. The viscosity reading in the report was actually higher than expected. Much better than my results with the dino version.
[/QUOTE]
What did the viscosity @100c burn down to?
the Ferret
Road warrior
What is 100c ?
Ack-CB11_imp
Road warrior
Degrees in Celsius.The ferret_imp said:
the Ferret
Road warrior
How does a testing company test a small sample for that?
Ack-CB11_imp
Road warrior
They bring it up to temp and read the viscosity.
100c and 40c are the temps used for testing new oil.
I think the Shell starts at 15.5 new and wears down with miles and temp. At 3600 miles I'd say in the 12's?
For used oil testing they only do the 100c.
100c and 40c are the temps used for testing new oil.
I think the Shell starts at 15.5 new and wears down with miles and temp. At 3600 miles I'd say in the 12's?
For used oil testing they only do the 100c.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Hmm interesting.
What number would indicate the oil is no longer lubricating?
What number would indicate the oil is no longer lubricating?
Ack-CB11_imp
Road warrior
The TBN and Viscosity ratings.
In the BMW Boxer world oil is a HUGE subject matter.
I've learned a lot about oil since my 1st one.
In the BMW Boxer world oil is a HUGE subject matter.
I've learned a lot about oil since my 1st one.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Ack..I don't understand (probably never will lol)
I think in ALL forums, oil discussions are HUGE. which I find amazing considering the few oil related failures we read about in motorcycles (as in zero)
I think in ALL forums, oil discussions are HUGE. which I find amazing considering the few oil related failures we read about in motorcycles (as in zero)
Ack-CB11_imp
Road warrior
I agree, even with only the slightest maintenance with the cheapest parts they'll go forever.The ferret_imp said:
It does seem the forums with all the oil threads do have the most trouble?
flynrider
Road warrior
Ack-CB11_imp said:
What did the viscosity @100c burn down to?
[/QUOTE]
Hey Ack,
The cSt Viscosity @ 100C came out at 17.6. Blackstone's expected average for the sample was 11.6 - 15.3. Some of that can be attributed to make-up oil that was added at 2500 miles, but overall it's still pretty good.
By comparison the dino Rotella that I ran and tested a few summers back came out at 7.0 after 3K miles of summer riding. Samples for cooler months were in the normal range, so I surmised that the heat was having a significant effect on the viscosity break down.
furious_blue_imp
Been there
Good point. I suspect that in cases of oil failure the result usually isn't a catastrophic failure (like a seized piston or a rod out the bottom), instead it is probably just general engine wear accelerated, the engine just wears out sooner than it would have otherwise and when it does wear sooner we have little to compare that with to know that that's what happened.The ferret_imp said:
