2018 CB1100RS

[peterbaron]

I’m just curious: why would spinning the wheel backwards make a difference?

It draws the lube into the links

It draws the lube into the links
Come to think of it, I used to pull the rear wheel backwards and spray at the rear sprocket equator. In general, I don't care because I am not too passionate about chains. :dodgy:

It draws the lube into the links
Come to think of it, I used to pull the rear wheel backwards and spray at the rear sprocket equator. In general, I don't care because I am not too passionate about chains. :dodgy:
GO, in your case (due to already having chain lube dispenser), place your container upside down and ride forward..
:angel:

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I’m just curious: why would spinning the wheel backwards make a difference?

It draws the lube into the links

It draws the lube into the links
Come to think of it, I used to pull the rear wheel backwards and spray at the rear sprocket equator. In general, I don't care because I am not too passionate about chains. :dodgy:

It draws the lube into the links
Come to think of it, I used to pull the rear wheel backwards and spray at the rear sprocket equator. In general, I don't care because I am not too passionate about chains. :dodgy:
GO, in your case (due to already having chain lube dispenser), place your container upside down and ride forward..
:angel:

It draws the lube into the links
Come to think of it, I used to pull the rear wheel backwards and spray at the rear sprocket equator. In general, I don't care because I am not too passionate about chains. :dodgy:
GO, in your case (due to already having chain lube dispenser), place your container upside down and ride forward..
:angel:
Heh, heh, ... well I still wipe the chain from time-to-time after applying something like WD-40 in the same manner. After soaking for some minutes, I pull the rear wheel backwards as I wipe off the dregs from the lower chain passage with an old cotton rag. This prevents the pinky finger getting caught between the chain and sprocket.

Whew! ... that hurt. Had to really recall my procedure.

 

[Cormanus]

If you run the bike in top gear at 8000 rpm with the garage door open you will lubricate the whole neighborhood.

If my arms were long enough ...

It reminds me of ridem32 getting his ECU back from a reflash, putting the bike on the stand and running it up through the gears to see how fast it might go. I kept waiting for the back wheel to touch the ground when it was turning at 120 mph.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

If you run the bike in top gear at 8000 rpm with the garage door open you will lubricate the whole neighborhood.

If my arms were long enough ...

It reminds me of ridem32 getting his ECU back from a reflash, putting the bike on the stand and running it up through the gears to see how fast it might go. I kept waiting for the back wheel to touch the ground when it was turning at 120 mph.

If my arms were long enough ...

It reminds me of ridem32 getting his ECU back from a reflash, putting the bike on the stand and running it up through the gears to see how fast it might go. I kept waiting for the back wheel to touch the ground when it was turning at 120 mph.
"120 mph" with no load? Sounds dangerous, ya.

 

[Cormanus]

There's a video of it somewhere, but I can't unearth it. The story is here.

 

[dbarkdoll_imp]

Is there any negative consequence of running the engine in this manner? (On the center stand, rear wheel elevated, top speed run)

I have heard/read that revving the beans out of an engine in neutral is not good for it, couldn't tell ya why though. Is this a similar no-no?

(FWIW I have not and will never do this, have already tested my top speed on the road)

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

One thing for sure is the rear wheel will not drive the engine when the throttle is let up a wee bit. I suspect the spinning wheel gets a bit cranky when the chain tension lightens up? There is not much tension on the chain when acceleration starts decreasing.

 

[VEGASDAVE_imp]

I used to lube the chains religiously when I was young before they had o-ring chains. I don't lube them at all any more. I believe its of little value to lube an o-ring chain because the o rings prevent the lube from getting where its most needed. I'm sure it dosen't hurt to lube but it mostly is of little benefit. I will buy a new chain when it needs to be adjusted after
the second time.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I used to lube the chains religiously when I was young before they had o-ring chains. I don't lube them at all any more. I believe its of little value to lube an o-ring chain because the o rings prevent the lube from getting where its most needed. I'm sure it dosen't hurt to lube but it mostly is of little benefit. I will buy a new chain when it needs to be adjusted after
the second time.

Agreed VD. But you have the advantage of desert.

Up here :dodgy:, the moisture and sometimes mixed with road salt, corrodes the chain and depending where the corrosion is relative to the O-ring seal, wears the seal prematurely.

 

[Cormanus]

VegasDave, your view has been expressed before by other members of the forum. For my part, my O-ring chain recently started making a nasty clunking noise. I lubed it which did not fix the problem so I consulted the mechanic at a Honda dealer who diagnosed it as being 'dry' and gave it a mighty bath with a different kind of lube. That fixed the problem. Given his prescription delivered an improvement, I'm inclined to accept that even O-ring chains perform better when kept lubricated. I also make mine last as long as I can.

 

[Wisedrum]

Which in my case is nearly 50.000km. Now time for a change.

Wisedrum

 

[DBM_imp]

VegasDave, your view has been expressed before by other members of the forum. For my part, my O-ring chain recently started making a nasty clunking noise. I lubed it which did not fix the problem so I consulted the mechanic at a Honda dealer who diagnosed it as being 'dry' and gave it a mighty bath with a different kind of lube. That fixed the problem. Given his prescription delivered an improvement, I'm inclined to accept that even O-ring chains perform better when kept lubricated. I also make mine last as long as I can.

Yup. Might want to read the manual.

 

[peterbaron]

On my previous '13 model, I made 56 Km before selling it, and there was absolutely nothing wrong with the sprockets and chain.
Beside good maintenance, always paved roads, long distances, no wheelies and no traffic/commuting, certainly contributed to their longevity, not to mention about OEM quality...

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

(03-02-2019 07:03 PM)peterbaron Wrote:On my previous '13 model, I made 56 Km before selling it, and there was absolutely nothing wrong with the sprockets and chain.
Beside good maintenance, always paved roads, long distances, no wheelies and no traffic/commuting, certainly contributed to their longevity, not to mention about OEM quality...
That's pretty good PB, 56 kms.

 

[Cormanus]

Yeah ... my first chain wore out at 42 kms.

 

[peterbaron]

Yeah ... my first chain wore out at 42 kms.

From your pics, I can judge that you ride more "dusty" roads, which will shorten sprocket/chain longevity = normality.

 

[the Ferret]

my first chain wore out at 59 kms

 

[Mav007_imp]

One of the the nice things about the new RS colour scheme is the loss of the gold on the springs and front forks.

That was the best part. how can you not like those Showa?

 

[Bheezy27403_imp]

Not in line with a "classic" look. I agree completely. When they released the new water-cooled Triumph Thruxton with the "R" version the same thing stuck out...gold shocks and forks. Doesn't look right on a retro inspired bike. Now, look at the standard Thruxton with the green paint...WOW, that's a looker.

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Not in line with a "classic" look. I agree completely. When they released the new water-cooled Triumph Thruxton with the "R" version the same thing stuck out...gold shocks and forks. Doesn't look right on a retro inspired bike. Now, look at the standard Thruxton with the green paint...WOW, that's a looker.

Agree.
Gold=modern sports 'bikes. Chrome or painted=retro look.