Brake bleed order and procedure on 2013 ABS model.

[kmoney_imp]

Hello,

Just wondering if anyone knows the brake bleed procedure or order for a 2013 w/ abs.

I've done other combined abs Hondas, with the 7 bleed screws and proportioning valve. Just wanted to make sure these are similar before charging ahead with it.

[Lord Popgun]

Kmoney,

The procedure for the '13 abs in the service manual is 7.5 pages. Check your PM in a couple minutes.

[kmoney_imp]

As popgun managed to hit my question out of the park on the first go, I though I'd just post a quick tutorial for bleeding the C-ABS brakes on our CB's. It's a quick and relatively easy job; however, the only caveat is that you will need a power bleeder. Right and left in the following refer to as if you were riding the bike. Bleed screws are numbered across pictures in their bleed order to be bled and closed sequentially.


Beginning on the front right hand side. The front brakes bleed like normal motorcycle brakes. For the left and right front calipers remove the cover on the handlebar mounted master, suck out and replace fluid and then simply crack the upper bleed screw (#1) and bleed using pump and hold technique on the front brake lever. Move from here to the left side upper bleeder nipple (#2).

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Bleeder #2, can't go wrong. If you want, you can put the cap back on the front master cylinder after bleeding this port. From this point on, you are drawing fluid entirely from the rear master cylinder, so you don't have to worry about the front running dry.

[url=http://s276.photobucket.com/user/mkehl/media/2015-08-15%2017.17.17_zpsdo5u5fxu.jpg.html]

Turning to rear actuated portion of the front brakes. First remove the seat and then remove the cap from the rear master cylinder reservoir. Suck out and replace fluid. You now have to connect a power bleeder to the lower bleeder nipple on the right front caliper (#3). Between this and the rear brake caliper you will draw quite a bit of fluid before it runs clean (~300ML). From these two ports you are sucking out the proportioning and delay valves as well as the ABS servo block (this is also why you can't do this procedure without a power bleeder).

[url=http://s276.photobucket.com/user/mkehl/media/2015-08-15%2017.16.46_zpsgt8sqfqu.jpg.html]

Finally, the rear brake. Attach the power bleeder (you must use the power bleeder and cannot bleed by pumping the rear brake) to the sole bleed nipple (#4) and let it do its job.

[url=http://s276.photobucket.com/user/mkehl/media/2015-08-15%2017.16.53_zpsult3bp2f.jpg.html]

That's the end. Top up and replace the cap on the rear reservoir and you are done.

The brake fluid in these gets nasty surprisingly fast, and matters quite a bit more in an ABS bike with the small passages and solenoids in the (expensive!) ABS block. All in all definitely a worthwhile job.

[url=http://s276.photobucket.com/user/mkehl/media/2015-08-15%2017.23.27_zpsczcgoazy.jpg.html]

2 years and 9600kms, with the look and consistency of maple syrup.

[the Ferret]

Excellent job.

Will move this to How To and change title

I believe this is only for the 13 ABS models.

the 14 DLX s all have ABS but not C-ABS and will be different than the ones in this tutorial

The 14 DLX has one hydraulic hose and 1 bleed nipple per caliper.

The 13s with C-ABS have 3 pot calipers (3 pistons ) the 14 dlxs 2 pot calipers ( 2 pistons)