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New CB1100 Owner - Few Mechanical Questions
#1
I've had my 2014 CB1100 for almost 2 weeks and I absolutely love it, but I have a few mechanical questions I was hoping this very knowledgeable group could help answer for me. I've done some searching on the forum, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

1.) When accelerating at lower speeds, I hear what sounds like a chattering noise come from the top of the engine. With my legs against the tank, I really can't hear it, but when spread, it's pretty clear and noticeable. I assume this is all of the valves hard at work, but figured I'd ask.

2.) Speaking of noises, at very low speeds it sounds like my front calipers are ever so slightly contacting the brake pads, even though I'm not braking. I imagine this will go away once the bike is more broken-in, but again, just wanted to ask.

3.) Let me preface this with I am not trying to start a debate on oil. For better or worse, I plan on sticking with Honda brand of oils and was wondering A.) Which kind to use at the 600 mile change (GN4, HPS4, etc) and B.) When I should switch to a full synthetic like HPS4 (or a different kind of Honda oil) and/or if it is even necessary?

4.) Is there any benefit to upgrading to an K&N type air filter? I read some back and forth opinions on the subject, but was curious about any first hand experience. I use the factory replacements in my cars, but I know a bike is a different animal.

As always, thanks in advance for your help!

PS - I have no idea why it has "New New" in the thread name, oh well.
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#2
PS - I have no idea why it has "New New" in the thread name, oh well.

it diesn't anymore lol

As to the engine noise you are hearing probably fuel injectors tapping. Most hear it when they first get the bike, but soon they no longer think about them.

It doesn't matter if you use dino oil or synthetic as long as you change them in a timely manner

Stock filter does a good job. Only advantage to a K&N I can see is it's ability to be cleaned and reused.

Can't help you on the brakes one.
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#3
Cant comment on #1. #2- Generally new disc brakes will slightly touch, and becomes a little less evident as the brakes wear in from new. To check the amount of touch the pads have on the disc, put the bike on the center stand, and have someone sit on the bike which will raise the front wheel off the ground. With the front wheel off the ground, spin the front wheel by hand. The wheel should spin with slight brush against the disc. #3- Oil is a matter of personal choice, provided it is of the type specified in the manual, and the correct viscosity. That said, I prefer to stick with Honda oil, and after initial break in at the first oil change, I went to the full synthetic Honda HP4S. #4- Whether it is my car, or my bike, I always use OEM filters. I really cant see any reason to go aftermarket on a filter, but at the same time, particularly with a machine that is in warranty, I dont want to give the machines manufacturer any excuse to deny warranty should there ever be a problem. In addition, I have read about problems with some aftermarket filters, whereas I have never read about any problems with OEM filters.
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#4
2017 he was asking about an air filter and not an oil filter, but your advise about using oem oil filters is spot on.
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#5
As a back-up to the ferret's response:
1. Injectors are indeed noisy and that noise is normal.
2. I can hear pad contact when I push the bike in my garage.
3. Honda's labeled oil is good quality. I used GN4 at the first oil change, then switched to full synthetic HP4S at the second, then Castrol Power 1 at the third for 10W-40 in the southern Nevada heat. If not for wanting 10W-40, I would still be using the HP4S.
4. The stock air filter flow is more than adequate.

For the CB1100, 171 CFM is required at 8,500 RPM.
1140 cc x 8,500 RPM (redline) = 9,690,000 cubic centimeters
Divide that by 2 for a 4 stroke = 4,845,000 cc = 171 cu ft per minute.

K&N claims a flow capability of 498.64 CFM...but it cannot be anywhere near fully utilized by an 1140 cc motor.
(06-06-2018, 01:45 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: 2017 he was asking about an air filter and not an oil filter, but your advise about using oem oil filters is spot on.

Yes, The Honda filter is a tad expensive, but good quality and the Honda cap wrench fits it well. Honda 15410-MCE-H51 is one wrench and one filter.

Here is a bit more info which I accumulated while getting familiar with the bike, last November:

86 HP @ 7500 RPM
65.6 ft lbs @ 5700 RPM
0-30 1.2 seconds
0-60 3.3 seconds
0-90 6.8 seconds
0-100 8.6 seconds
1/4 mile 12.11 seconds @ 109.25

Front axle wrenches 17 mm Allen & 22 mm
Rear axle wrenches 22 mm & 27 mm

Spark plug 14 mm NGK LMAR8A-9S (stock 6817) available at O'Reilly's
Air filter 17210-MEJ-981
Oil filter + wrench Honda 15410-MCE-H51
Oil filter Honda 15410-MFJ-D01
Oil, 4 quarts Pro Honda GN4 10W-30
Crush washer 14 mm 94109-14000

engine guards 08P70-MGC-N20

Battery YTZ14S (O'Reilly DTZ14-S $103.99)
Regulator 31600-MGZ-J01
Stator 31120-MGC-014
Pulse generator 30300-MGC-003
Diode (fuse block) 31730-MAS-601
Relays (fuse block) 38501-MEL-003
10 amp fuses stop/horn
10 amp fuses meter illumination
10 amp fuses headlight
10 amp fuses start
10 amp fuses turn/clock
(06-06-2018, 01:43 AM)2017EX_imp Wrote: Cant comment on #1. #2- Generally new disc brakes will slightly touch, and becomes a little less evident as the brakes wear in from new. To check the amount of touch the pads have on the disc, put the bike on the center stand, and have someone sit on the bike which will raise the front wheel off the ground. With the front wheel off the ground, spin the front wheel by hand. The wheel should spin with slight brush against the disc. #3- Oil is a matter of personal choice, provided it is of the type specified in the manual, and the correct viscosity. That said, I prefer to stick with Honda oil, and after initial break in at the first oil change, I went to the full synthetic Honda HP4S. #4- Whether it is my car, or my bike, I always use OEM filters. I really cant see any reason to go aftermarket on a filter, but at the same time, particularly with a machine that is in warranty, I dont want to give the machines manufacturer any excuse to deny warranty should there ever be a problem. In addition, I have read about problems with some aftermarket filters, whereas I have never read about any problems with OEM filters.

K&N (more expensive than Honda, (~$17 vs ~$13) had a batch with spot weld control issues on the 17 mm welded on "nut", resulting in oil leaks.

https://www.knfilters.com/mobile/recallkn204

BTW, I re-used the drain plug crush washer 3 times now. It did not feel as much "give" this last time, so I will replace it next oil change.
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#6
(06-06-2018, 01:45 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: 2017 he was asking about an air filter and not an oil filter, but your advise about using oem oil filters is spot on.

Good catch Ferret, my bad for skimming through a little toooo fast. I think I would stay with OEM for the air filter too, but that is just me.
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#7
Thanks everyone, this is really helpful.
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#8
(06-06-2018, 02:15 AM)2017EX_imp Wrote:
(06-06-2018, 01:45 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: 2017 he was asking about an air filter and not an oil filter, but your advise about using oem oil filters is spot on.

Good catch Ferret, my bad for skimming through a little toooo fast. I think I would stay with OEM for the air filter too, but that is just me.

K&N has excellent flow, but filters better when a bit dirty (less flow).

I had a K&N on my first Sportster, but I think most of the gain was from more air flow around the ham can with a Screamin' Eagle backplate. I modified the backplate on my second Sportster, using a stock air filter and had about the same gain.

Also had a K&N "cold air induction" on my 2003 Jeep Wrangler.

So, I am not anti-K&N, but would prefer to exchange air filters, rather then clean and re-oil.

The HiFlo HFA1932 was under consideration due to price. But the response from HiFlo is that they do NOT flow test. Don't know how they can claim the same flow as OEM, yet not test.

My airfilter is still looking new at over 9,000 miles.
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#9
Regarding brake pads dragging, I can't recall any particular issues with my 2017 EX, but I have two new (2017) Harley touring bikes, and both of them demonstrated significant friction between pads and rotors until I had a couple of thousand miles on them. I could feel the difference rolling them out of the garage.

I only have about 1800 miles on my EX, but it's very quiet and smooth so far as the brakes and valve noise. I wear earplugs all the time when I ride, so if there's a tiny bit of noise, I would not hear it anyway. Doubt there's anything wrong with your bike!
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#10
The rear brake on my 2017 CB1100 EX dragged and discoloured the disk. Probably because I always use the gearbox to slow down, and seldom use the rear brake. An old British motorcycle habit. The pads and disk were replaced under warranty.

The dealer told me to use the rear brake more, so I tried. Unfortunately the dealer did not bleed the rear brake fluid properly and now it is almost useless. Not a problem because I only use it when slowly going downhill on gravel or sand roads.

Like most new EXs the front brake squawks when coming to a stop. I will wait until the tires need replacing to see if these cell phone droids can actually do something mechanical.
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