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Rear brakes... what I did wrong and where to go now?
#1
Hi Gang,
I replaced all my brake pads a good while back (more than a year) and at some point I noticed that the rear brakes just didn't feel like they were doing the job as they once did. Of course, I ignored that feeling Angel
So, I got the safety inspection done yesterday and was shown that one pad on the back was very worn while the other is much less so. And I can feel that the side of the disk where the wear is is more worn. (And that is a sentence for the ages.)
I want to get in there and fix things properly but am feeling a bit intimidated at this point. I expect that one of the pins is binding but I'm not sure. And I need to order parts but am not sure what to order so that I have everything on hand the first time.
I have the service manual (though it got flooded and looks pathetic Confused) so that is helpful, but if anyone can give me suggestions of what parts could possibly be needed and a good source for OEM bits, I'd appreciate the help.
I wish I lived near Razor Worship
Thanks
Bob
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#2
Bob , could you just take the rear brake apart and clean all the parts; than you can see if some are worn/rusty and perhaps order new parts if needed. We should all live near Razor ( perhaps down the road we can all live in the same retirement facility.)

PS : did you spill your beer again ?
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#3
Bob i'm not the best to explain here, although i always get the job done i find if a bit fiddly to do so.
There are two sliding bushings that should have enough ( silicone preferably but anything will work here ) grease under the dust seals to enable the caliper housing to freely slide and find the best position on the rear brake disk ( yellow dot ).

Before you begin check that the caliper feels slightly loose to move with all bolts tight.



They normally wear about the same on both brake pads unless they are prevented to slide sideways and adjust freely.
The rear ( sliding ) bolt ( 12mm socket ) has to be loosened to lift the caliper enough to replace the pads.
Also make sure the slot in the caliper frame which pivots around the axle is located correctly over the square piece on the swingarm which stops the caliper rotating in either direction with the rear brake applied.

The ( 8mm socket ) pin can then be unscrewed and the pads replaced, this is the fiddly bit to get the new pads to seat both resting on their supports against the spring tension before replacing the pin and the bolt.

It is possible to install the pads not resting on their intended supports and yet looking ok, that may have happened in your case, have a look if they have worn correctly.

Likely more advice is coming your way but that's my bit of advice for you.
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#4
(06-20-2020, 11:47 AM)max_imp Wrote: Bob i'm not the best to explain here, although i always get the job done i find if a bit fiddly to do so.
There are two sliding bushings that should have enough ( silicone preferably but anything will work here ) grease under the dust seals to enable the caliper housing to freely slide and find the best position on the rear brake disk ( yellow dot ).

Before you begin check that the caliper feels slightly loose to move with all bolts tight.



They normally wear about the same on both brake pads unless they are prevented to slide sideways and adjust freely.
The rear ( sliding ) bolt ( 12mm socket ) has to be loosened to lift the caliper enough to replace the pads.
Also make sure the slot in the caliper frame which pivots around the axle is located correctly over the square piece on the swingarm which stops the caliper rotating in either direction with the rear brake applied.

The ( 8mm socket ) pin can then be unscrewed and the pads replaced, this is the fiddly bit to get the new pads to seat both resting on their supports against the spring tension before replacing the pin and the bolt.

It is possible to install the pads not resting on their intended supports and yet looking ok, that may have happened in your case, have a look if they have worn correctly.

Likely more advice is coming your way but that's my bit of advice for you.

Hi again,
Thanks MAX. I finally dove into this after waiting a good while for parts delivery. You got me 85% there.
I am having much trouble, mostly because I don't have three hands and a prehensile tail.
Three things...
1) I bought a new pin because the old one is a bit worn looking and it only cost $4.95. But the new one (it is Honda brand) doesn't have the little white O ring near the end like the old one does. That ring doesn't look to be removable from the old pin. I looked on line and the old pin stock number has been replaced by a new one so maybe they decided the little O ring isn't required??
2) I also bought a new caliper pin(it was cheap, too) but I can't see any way to remove the old one. The original still seems to move freely so I guess I will leave that alone. Thoughts on that plan?
3) How on Earth do these pads connect to the caliper body? I just can't get anything to "hook" under there. Maybe this is where a third hand would come in handy? I feel like I get one in some sort of proper place but can't get both. When I feel like I have it, the pads both fall loose again, so I don't think I'm getting it. I certainly am not confident in what it is doing so far.
I have the manual but it is very vague as to how this all works. "Put the pads in, bolt it down." Not a big help Dodgy
Grrrrr. Any help would be awesome.
Thanks!
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#5
Is item 17 the white o-ring you are talking about? https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...ke-caliper

If so, you need to order another part.
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#6
(07-08-2020, 10:59 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Is item 17 the white o-ring you are talking about? https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...ke-caliper

If so, you need to order another part.

Well crap. Yeah. I will try to steal the old one first.
The old pin isn't in bad shape and I took some steel wool to it and buffed it up. Can I just reuse?
The only parts the manual wants me to replace are the pads and the caliper bolt.
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#7
Not to jump in on Max’s help, but on almost anything that pin is just cleaned up well and re-used.
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#8
(06-20-2020, 11:22 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: Bob , could you just take the rear brake apart and clean all the parts; than you can see if some are worn/rusty and perhaps order new parts if needed. We should all live near Razor ( perhaps down the road we can all live in the same retirement facility.)

PS : did you spill your beer again ?

No beer spilled yet, Meneer Houtman, but I am about to open a couple. It's been a frustrating hour Confused
(07-08-2020, 11:15 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Not to jump in on Max’s help, but on almost anything that pin is just cleaned up well and re-used.

Cool. That saves me some time and I will just set aside the new pin for a later date :-)
Now, how about those pads?? You are only about five hours down coast. Perhaps if you have nothing better to do, you could ride on up and hold my hand? Thumbs Up
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#9
If it’s outside of a 250 mile circle I have to get permission from the High Command Smile Yeah I work for the military and Covid is a worry. Even civilians fall under .mil rules in some cases.

Brakes aren’t usually hard. I haven’t done the CB brakes yet, but they can’t be much different that any other. That 3rd hand and prehensile tail might be nice, especially when putting the rear wheel back on.
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#10
I didn't have to take the wheel off, so I got that going for me which is nice.
I was joking about the ride up, though I'll be happy to meet you halfway for a lunch sometime.
My daughter has one more chemo treatment so we are being super careful because her white blood cell counts are way low. Scary times times two. But all will be better one day. Thumbs Up
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