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(02-21-2021, 05:46 PM)Tev62_imp Wrote: (02-20-2021, 05:17 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: The problem with bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is that, compared to a hydraulic brake, there is no real resistance when you pull the lever in.
The clutch slave cylinder is bolted to the left side of the engine, pushes a pushrod through to the clutch on the right side, like most Japanese hydraulic clutches. The slave cylinder can be unbolted at the 3 bolts, and there will be no leakage. If there is an external leak at the slave cylinder, it will not contaminate the engine oil - it will leak into the countershaft cover area.
When bleeding the system, I unbolt the clutch slave cylinder, and use a heavy duty c-clamp or a small vise to provide the resistance needed for bleeding it. That way you can develop that firm lever pressure. If you bleed it this way, and the lever is still mushy, the master cylinder may be leaking internally.
I don't get what you are saying here. Are you suggesting when bleeding the clutch you are operating the slave cylinder, pushing the rod and overcoming the clutch springs rather than the fluid coming out of the open bleed valve? The clutch springs are the resistance, they would not move in the slightest with an open bleed nipple while pumping the lever. Or have I misunderstood what you are trying to do with something on the master cylinder?
I don't get what you are saying here. Are you suggesting when bleeding the clutch you are operating the slave cylinder, pushing the rod and overcoming the clutch springs rather than the fluid coming out of the open bleed valve? The clutch springs are the resistance, they would not move in the slightest with an open bleed nipple while pumping the lever. Or have I misunderstood what you are trying to do with something on the master cylinder?
In some cases, if there is too much air in the system, such as when changing the hose, or replacing either master cylinder or slave cylinder, you can pump all day and not have solid pressure.
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I flushed and bleed the clutch fluid today and that solved the problem. It shifts fine and the clutch lever has a much firmer pull. Because the bike shifted fine when I last ran it three month ago, I have to believe that the fluid got contaminated while the bike was sitting. The fluid was pretty dirty when I flushed it.
Thanks for all the responses and the valuable information.
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(02-24-2021, 06:35 AM)CB1100AZ_imp Wrote: I flushed and bleed the clutch fluid today and that solved the problem. It shifts fine and the clutch lever has a much firmer pull. Because the bike shifted fine when I last ran it three month ago, I have to believe that the fluid got contaminated while the bike was sitting. The fluid was pretty dirty when I flushed it.
Thanks for all the responses and the valuable information.
Excellent CB1100AZ !!
Such good news for all, especially you of course.
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Awesome CB1100AZ!!
The book calls for the clutch and brake fluids to be flushed every 2 years.
Now come do mine. Its time for it
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About bleeding time then eh?
Good stuff AZ, we all like a good ending especially when we get to hear back about it!
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(02-24-2021, 10:50 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Awesome CB1100AZ!!
The book calls for the clutch and brake fluids to be flushed every 2 years.
Now come do mine. Its time for it
I didn't change the brake and clutch fluids in my 1998 VFR800 for 18 years, and over 90,000 miles. When I did, the fluids were discolored (dirty), but nothing unusual. After changing them I could not detect any difference in the way the controls operated.
I didn't change the brake fluid in my 1991 Toyota truck for for 25 years, and over 175,000 miles. Couldn't detect any changes in the way the brakes performed after the change.
I am not advocating that people not change their fluids, I am just commenting. Maybe the mild climate I live in has something to do with it?
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There is definitely a majority of cages on the road without recent brake fluid changes.
