Warped rotors?

[DAC]

Has anyone had any problems with warped front rotors? When I stop, I am now getting a definite oscillation from the front that changes with wheel speed.

[PowerDubs_imp]

On cars it is usually pad material on the rotors. I'd try cleaning them first, and new pads 2nd before spending money on new rotors.

[chync_imp]

I have 20k miles on mine now and I have noticed a slight pulsing when the brakes are only lightly applied. I assumed it was the pads. They may be getting close to the end of life. I have been looking at some new rotors on Samurider but they sure are expensive.

[the Ferret]

I think Rboe had a rear rotor replaced under warranty, but if memory serves he was incidentally hitting his rear brake pedal. I don't recall anyone replacing front rotors for pulsation.

[DAC]

Clean or replace the pads then. Thanks.

[Lord Popgun]

Ferret, yeah, he was riding the brake and overheated the rotor.

I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads

[peterbaron]

Ferret, yeah, he was riding the brake and overheated the rotor.

I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads

IN GENERAL TO ALL:
STOP REPLACING PARTS PRIOR DIAGNOSIS..
IF ROTORS ARE WARPED = ONLY SOLUTION IS REPLACEMENT. PERIOD!!!

First, take a visual look at rotor, if it has baked in pad imprint or rusty spot line across rotor it will be vibrating upon brake application ( and mostly front). This may happen after long storage (and moisture) or after washing bike and not spinning it after to dry out brakes = rust just LOVE this condition. You may help to certain point by deglazing rusty spot...but if it is too much or no help = replacement.
Use a dial gauge to check run out... you can also check thickness of your rotors at several different spots by using micrometer...compare with specs = always
If rotor is overheated ( for whatever reason), find out why = cure it and replace rotor!!!!.
PRIOR REPLACING ROTOR = CLEAN CONTACT SURFACE AND TORQUE IT DOWN TO PROPER SPECS.
Cheers to all CB riders,
Peter
--------------------
'13CB, 42K

[Django]

Check, if there are rust scars in the rotor. That may happen during winter, when the sinter pads have contact to the rotors during long rest.

That was a disk from my beemer:

[kvdv_imp]

Incredible timing on this thread...I just picked my bike up yesterday from having the tires replaced, AND the front rotors, which were warped. I've been putting up with the situation for a year or so, trying to postpone parting with the cash to replace them (about $600 a pair!!!! Ouch!). So yes, it apparently does happen. I've got 20,000 miles on my '14 DLX, do not brake hard, never abuse the bike, it's never been dropped or anything like that. No idea how they warped; and I don't believe they were warped when I bought the bike with 1800 miles on it; seems like something I would have noticed. Oh well, it's only money, right? I will say that braking is smooth as silk (again), and the new Avon Roadriders are every bit as glorious as I remember them being on my old '07 T100...

[PowerDubs_imp]

Sorry to say- but I doubt they were warped.

As Popgun says- it is easy enough to measure. If anyone is local, I would happily do so for you before you spend money on new rotors you didn't actually need. It doesn't take much on the surface of the rotor to give it a pulsation. A good cleaning works wonders.