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Worked on mine too!
Did it over a week ago
My CB no longer has that intermittent, brief, dead or running out of gas feeling that used to happen a few times an hour
Has not done it once in over a week......
Even if it's just my imagination, who cares, as long as my mind thinks it's fixed :-)
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What is a TPS?
Throttle position sensor (TPS) is a sensor used to monitor the throttle position of a car. The sensor is usually located on the butterfly spindle/shaft so that it can directly monitor the position of the throttle. More advanced forms of the sensor are also used, for example an extra closed throttle position sensor (CTPS) may be employed to indicate that the throttle is completely closed. Some engine control units (ECUs) also control the throttle position electronic throttle control (ETC) or "drive by wire" systems and if that is done the position sensor is used in a feedback loop to enable that control.[1]
Related to the TPS are accelerator pedal sensors, which often include a wide open throttle (WOT) sensor. The accelerator pedal sensors are used in electronic throttle control (ETC) or "drive by wire" systems, and the most common use of a wide open throttle sensor is for the kick-down function on automatic transmissions.
Modern day sensors are non contact type. These modern non contact TPS include Hall effect sensors, Inductive sensors, magnetoresistive and others. In the potentiometric type sensors, a multi-finger metal brush/rake is in contact with a resistive strip,[2] while the butterfly valve is turned from the lower mechanical stop (minimum air position) to WOT, there is a change in the resistance and this change in resistance is given as the input to the ECU.
Non contact type TPS work on the principle of Hall effect or Inductive sensors, or magnetoresistive technologies, wherein generally the magnet or inductive loop is the dynamic part which is mounted on the butterfly valve throttle spindle/shaft gear and the sensor & signal processing circuit board is mounted within the ETC gear box cover and is stationary. When the magnet/inductive loop mounted on the spindle which is rotated from the lower mechanical stop to WOT, there is a change in the magnetic field for the sensor. The change in the magnetic field is sensed by the sensor and the voltage generated is given as the input to the ECU. Normally a two pole rare earth magnet is used for the TPS due to their high Curie temperatures required in the under-hood vehicle environment. The magnet may be of diametrical type, ring type, rectangular or segment type. The magnet is defined to have a certain magnetic field that does not vary significantly with time or temperature. In case of failure of the TPS operation the CHECK ENGINE light remains illuminated even if there is no problem or error in the ECU. It cannot be corrected by clearing ECU errors by running diagnostic software. In order to rectify the malfunction the TPS needs to be replaced by a new one.
Now that everyone is educated, the O.P. theory should make better sense why it works. Still having issues? See below.
Want to diagnose your own TPS issues?
http://www.thebikersgarage.com/diagnosin...otorcycle/
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I noticed something interesting last week while on a ride. This works when the engine is running and you're riding along. It's a little tricky to do, of course, but I noticed that the bike wasn't running as smooth as before. I was on a two lane country road but I came onto a long straight stretch and pinned the throttle to the stop, then backed off down to around 55, then pinned it again, a total of 3 times, and the smoothness returned. 
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(10-06-2014, 01:55 AM)mininsx_imp Wrote: I noticed something interesting last week while on a ride. This works when the engine is running and you're riding along. It's a little tricky to do, of course, but I noticed that the bike wasn't running as smooth as before. I was on a two lane country road but I came onto a long straight stretch and pinned the throttle to the stop, then backed off down to around 55, then pinned it again, a total of 3 times, and the smoothness returned.
O.K., now that is just crazy talk  Now I don't know what to think or how to explain your results.
I was pretty much convinced that the original procedure you described was showing positive results and that something of an electronic nature was taking place to improve throttle response.
Since your last post, however, I'm starting to wonder if what is happening is partly mechanical in nature. If you are not turning the bike on and off as in the original procedure, how is it learning or resetting the TPS while you are driving?
Now that I think about it, my previous bike (Vulcan 1700) was notorious for deposits forming around the butterfly valves and a periodic cleaning helped to smooth out throttle response. Could that be happening on the CB1100? Is exercising the throttle repeatedly while you are driving, having something of a mechanical effect to free things up?
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No, It's not purely mechanical. The problem and the solution is common to other brands too.
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(10-06-2014, 03:33 AM)ClassicVW_imp Wrote: No, It's not purely mechanical. The problem and the solution is common to other brands too.
I'm just happy that it seems to work. What is odd though, is that a procedure for other brands would work on a Honda and that no-one can find any official documentation to attest to the procedure and its efficacy.
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And my CB could get into that "funk" at a constant throttle position, it wasn't while trying to move the throttle.
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(10-06-2014, 03:19 AM)Gumby 1100_imp Wrote: (10-06-2014, 01:55 AM)mininsx_imp Wrote: I noticed something interesting last week while on a ride. This works when the engine is running and you're riding along. It's a little tricky to do, of course, but I noticed that the bike wasn't running as smooth as before. I was on a two lane country road but I came onto a long straight stretch and pinned the throttle to the stop, then backed off down to around 55, then pinned it again, a total of 3 times, and the smoothness returned.
O.K., now that is just crazy talk Now I don't know what to think or how to explain your results.
I was pretty much convinced that the original procedure you described was showing positive results and that something of an electronic nature was taking place to improve throttle response.
Since your last post, however, I'm starting to wonder if what is happening is partly mechanical in nature. If you are not turning the bike on and off as in the original procedure, how is it learning or resetting the TPS while you are driving?
Now that I think about it, my previous bike (Vulcan 1700) was notorious for deposits forming around the butterfly valves and a periodic cleaning helped to smooth out throttle response. Could that be happening on the CB1100? Is exercising the throttle repeatedly while you are driving, having something of a mechanical effect to free things up?
O.K., now that is just crazy talk Now I don't know what to think or how to explain your results.
I was pretty much convinced that the original procedure you described was showing positive results and that something of an electronic nature was taking place to improve throttle response.
Since your last post, however, I'm starting to wonder if what is happening is partly mechanical in nature. If you are not turning the bike on and off as in the original procedure, how is it learning or resetting the TPS while you are driving?
Now that I think about it, my previous bike (Vulcan 1700) was notorious for deposits forming around the butterfly valves and a periodic cleaning helped to smooth out throttle response. Could that be happening on the CB1100? Is exercising the throttle repeatedly while you are driving, having something of a mechanical effect to free things up?
I KNOW, I couldn't believe it, either! I wonder if the TPS is like a rheostat and it gets a little funky in there and working the throttle all the way cleans the corrosion off somehow. I don't understand it but I'm glad it works! 
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I couldn't believe it either when I read this thread. Pulling the throttle 2 times when ignition is "on" to smoothe the responsiveness? Sounds spooky.
But ... yesterday I did so - and after the procedure I went on a 100 miles ride - and it was unbelievable. Really a bit softer when revving up, engine does not respond so "harsh" on throttle moves. Even now strolling around on inner city roads with 50 km/h in 5th gear is fun.
Thanks!
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(09-15-2014, 01:05 AM)mininsx_imp Wrote: My '13 stock CB1100 doesn't run as smoothly as it should and I know most don't have this problem but some of us do. I might have found an answer, and I don't know if this will work or not (I haven't tried it yet) but I'm going to soon. I found this on the Concours Owner's Group message board. One of the guys there was complaining about rough running and he got a reply: "Sure sounds like the TPS. Turn the bike on, do not start it. Twist the throttle on full, roll off full, do it twice. Turn off bike, turn back on and start. Go for a ride and see if it works. Report back and tell me I am a motorcycle god, or worthless POS FWIW, this works on GSs that have a similar problem with the TPS, ECU will read the full on/off position and do a rest to the current values. Same holds true when calibrating the PCV or PCIII."
Here's a link to the entire thread if you want to have a look:
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/to...254.0.html
Thank you guys for this thread. My bike has about 623 miles on it and I have began to have some of the same issues. Thought at first I might have bad gas. Anyway quick question. Does it matter in this procedure of turnig the bike on, I'm assuming turn the key to the on position, and having the red ignition/kill swith on right handle bar to what position. Does it matter in this procedure if it is in the ignition on or kill position. I know with it in the kill position no fuel will pump into the cylinders. Then of course, in the key on position cycle the throttle several times full on to full off to reset the tps. Does it matter which positon the igniton/kill switch is in. Thanks, CBenthuzed 
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