Tools you'll need

[the Ferret]

A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.

[jmc1100_imp]

Just installed SW-Motech crash bars. My shop manual hasn't arrived yet,I don't want to over torque. Does anyone have the values for the front engine mount and the 2 frame mount fasteners that indirectly tie the engine to the frame with a bracket. I'll have to learn how to post pictures...I know that would help. Anyway Twisted Throttle shipped them in 2 days..Good company,and great Forum!!! Thanks

[Lord Popgun]

Just installed SW-Motech crash bars. My shop manual hasn't arrived yet,I don't want to over torque. Does anyone have the values for the front engine mount and the 2 frame mount fasteners that indirectly tie the engine to the frame with a bracket. I'll have to learn how to post pictures...I know that would help. Anyway Twisted Throttle shipped them in 2 days..Good company,and great Forum!!! Thanks

Check out this Thread. The torque spec pages are posted

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=348

[jmc1100_imp]

Thanks Popgun,I'll wait for the manual, I want to see a picture of the fastener location and its value..The right side bolts were not as tight as on the left side.I torqued to 30ft lbs only for now..Don't want to damage anything..

[rboe]

He's using the clicker in his elbo........

[redbirds_imp]

Thanks for listing the tool selection, very handy especially for making my take along tool roll. For me, a lift is essential kit for home bike maintenance and Harbor Freight's lift is hard to beat for the price. Be sure to get the HF front wheel chock also as the one supplied for the lift is not the best.

A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
I second that. An improperly calibrated torque wrench can cause some real problems and torquing oil filters to the manufacturer's specs is a sure way of not being able to remove it next oil change. I've always hand tightened oil filters and have never had one leak. If you torque the oil drain plug be very careful that your wrench is calibrated and always use a new sealing washer. Over-tightened drain plugs can mean a cracked oil pan as aluminum is not as forgiving as steel. Please don't ask how I know this.

[Cormanus]

Thanks for listing the tool selection, very handy especially for making my take along tool roll. For me, a lift is essential kit for home bike maintenance and Harbor Freight's lift is hard to beat for the price. Be sure to get the HF front wheel chock also as the one supplied for the lift is not the best.

A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
I second that. An improperly calibrated torque wrench can cause some real problems and torquing oil filters to the manufacturer's specs is a sure way of not being able to remove it next oil change. I've always hand tightened oil filters and have never had one leak. If you torque the oil drain plug be very careful that your wrench is calibrated and always use a new sealing washer. Over-tightened drain plugs can mean a cracked oil pan as aluminum is not as forgiving as steel. Please don't ask how I know this.

If this were an episode of Get Smart someone would have to ask: "How do you know this?"

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Thanks for listing the tool selection, very handy especially for making my take along tool roll. For me, a lift is essential kit for home bike maintenance and Harbor Freight's lift is hard to beat for the price. Be sure to get the HF front wheel chock also as the one supplied for the lift is not the best.

A great thread and thanks to the ferret for giving us this.

One thing I am a stickler on is the proverbial torque wrench. You really need to include two of them in your list. You will need one that goes from from 0 to 250 inch pounds and another to take you up to at least 80 foot pounds. That's a nice looking 32mm above, but what's missing?

You just cannot do the job properly without knowing you are torqued correctly.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.

Geez on nearly every motorcycle board there is a big argumentative thread about the merits and demerits of using torque wrenches. most everyone will agree that when rebuilding a motor, a torque wrench is required. There is never an agreement on the value of torquing dry threads vs wet threads, or whether the value assigned by the engineers is even reasonable in many cases. Oil drain bolts, oil filters, and rear axle nuts come to mind. Torque some oil filters to spec and you may never get them off again. Many seemingly experienced wrenches will regal horror stories of stripped nuts and bolts when bolts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench.

My advice is use a torque wrench if it makes you more comfortable and use feel it that makes you more comfortable. To each his own. I own two like yoou advise. Sometimes I use em, some times I don't. Haven't stripped anything and nothing has fallen off so Im comfortable both ways.
I second that. An improperly calibrated torque wrench can cause some real problems and torquing oil filters to the manufacturer's specs is a sure way of not being able to remove it next oil change. I've always hand tightened oil filters and have never had one leak. If you torque the oil drain plug be very careful that your wrench is calibrated and always use a new sealing washer. Over-tightened drain plugs can mean a cracked oil pan as aluminum is not as forgiving as steel. Please don't ask how I know this.

If this were an episode of Get Smart someone would have to ask: "How do you know this?"

Mate, tooo good

[rboe]

We came "this close" to finding out.

[The Spaceman_imp]

Credit card, AAA Membership card, three-pack condoms, 3 gold Sovereigns, and 8 ounces medicinal alcohol.