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(04-20-2014, 04:14 PM)Red Mist_imp Wrote: (04-20-2014, 03:46 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: Thank you to all the members who have replied. The Honda service department manager spoke to the Honda representative and you'll laugh at what he told him. The rep. said that the CB1100 motor has been "tamed" because this is what people who purchase this bike want, and that my bike is running correctly (please remember he is only responding from what the dealer told him). I really wasn't in any position to discuss this any further with the dealer so I thanked him for his help and left. I like Ferret's suggestion of having another forum member take my bike for a test ride, and if there are any of you out there in the San Diego area willing to do this for me then please let me know. I may be being picky about my bike, but after 40 years of riding and ownership of over 20 different motorcycles, I think I know when an engine in running properly and when it isn't. I am convinced my bike is running too lean below 3000 RPM, and therefor the very noticeable loss in torque in that range. I have a friend who is a certified mechanic that I haven't seen for a while and I think I will look him up and ask him to take my bike for a ride. My 1998 VFR800 pulls cleanly from idle, and I expect my 2014 CB1100 to at least do the same. This bike really is not enjoyable to ride like this. I don't know the proper way to address this with Honda at this point, other than to write them a letter, or to return my bike to the dealer and refuse to take it until they fix it, but this may get me no where. I do not want to spend a lot of money putting it on a dynamometer, and I'm convinced the dealer will stand by their "seat-of-the-pants" evaluation and not budge, concerning any type of warranty work. It has been suggested to me that I break it in fully and see if it improves (it has gotten better from my first day riding it). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you. Make them prove it's been tamed. It's already pretty tame. What did they do, make it into a beginner's retro? The CA bike runs the same as the 49-state motorcycle. We've seen plenty of dyno tests that show the power curve, torque and horsepower.
This thing pulls strong off the bottom, stronger than any VFR except the 1200. Also, there is no magical break-in. It should run great from the first mile.
Do not accept this nonsense; take it to the top. Complain at the highest levels. Ask what the engine power for the 2014 is compared to the 2013. They have to report that. Get your own dyno test done to show exactly how the bike IS running. Why keep guessing and relying on some clown saying it's been detuned? No way. The Ferret's had the 2013 and now has a 2014, he's not reported any lame powerband.
We all know how this bike runs, and it's awesome. Something is wrong with your motorcycle.
I guess if you want to go to the trouble of finding someone in California to ride your bike, you can, but really, after spending so much to purchase the bike, you'd be better served getting a dyno test so you can present the chart to Honda and show how it differs from the 2013. Keep the bike, it can be fixed, but your dealer is not handling this and whoever spoke to you from Honda is not fully aware of the situation, as you mentioned.
You want this fixed, you need FACTS so get that dyno run done. Seat of the pants will get you nowhere, you will know nothing for sure just having some other guy ride the bike. This is a warranty issue and you'll have to be persistent and patient, but relentless. If you don't know how to handle this, you'll have to learn by doing. There are laws about these things, and in fact, if the issue you are having is emissions-related, the Federal Government would also be involved.
Spending one more minute trying to solve this on the Internet, sorry to say, would be a waste of your time.
Dave, this is very good advice from Red Mist (my bold). My '10 runs as the majority of forum members report. If anything your bike should be better. While filtering, or moving in rush hour, 2nd with the throttle just cracked is standard operating procedure. You need to fix this.
Good luck and cheers.
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I know it hard to describe a running problem thru text. If your bike does have a problem could be ECU. Could be TPS, check air filter it might be missing ( not installed from factory ) sounds like more of a bad or out of adjustment TPS that sends the signal to ECM telling (input) where your throttle is at if it's off just a tiny bit the ECM dumps more or less fuel depending on which way it's out of adj! Under hard acceleration the TPS is not as critical I really wish you could ride another cb1100 to compare it to.
Michael
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(04-21-2014, 11:15 AM)Deanohh_imp Wrote: Just fyi, my CB would not run smooth under 2000rpm if I was holding constant speed in 1st or 2nd. Such as when going down a small residential street or through a parking lot it would jerk and lurch. Above 2000 rpm in 1st or 2nd, it would run smooth if holding steady throttle. In 3rd, I felt 2000rpm was lugging too much so I'm not counting that. I think this is typical for stock. Your description sounds like it is worse than this.
I should add that from a cold start, the bike ran fine at these conditions, except it was on fast idle. After warmed up is when it ran as I described. When I put the power commander on it ran good all the time.
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(04-21-2014, 10:51 AM)Dave_imp Wrote: Gentlemen, thank you all for you input. There may be just one small, misconception though. My bike will pull strongly below 3000 RPM if I twist the throttle back far enough, it just doesn't "inject" cleanly at very small throttle openings and with a light load. With very light (small) throttle openings and at a constant speed (I've performed this test in the first three gears) you can definitely hear the motor gurgling, that I am convinced is due to an excessively lean condition. This is annoying because when I ride around town I am not twisting the throttle back any further than I need to (and I am being easy because I am breaking it in), and you can feel and hear the leanness. However, if I just twist the throttle back and accelerate briskly it cleans-up and runs very well. But, this is an 1100cc motor, and (from my experience) you shouldn't have to twist the throttle back this far riding around town - besides, you're very quickly going way past the speed limit around town. I can ride my fuel-injected VFR800 around town all day and not experience the same "lean" sensation or torque drop-off. My VFR injects smoothly and evenly at all RPM levels, from idle up to red line. Additionally, when I do twist the throttle on the CB1100 and accelerate briskly and shift at about 3300 - 3400 RPM, I feel a definite torque drop when the RPM drops below 3000 when I engage the next gear. I expected a smooth and linear torque curve, not one that drops off below 3000 RPM. I am going to meet with my mechanic friend tonight and see what he says after a test ride (his personal commuter is a Yamaha FZ1000).
Again, I thank all of you for your feedback and I will update you soon.
The original post strongly suggested the motorcycle had serious problems. This most recent clarification indicates something quite different and more along the lines of a personal preference based on the bike not living up to certain expectations. I wonder why the original poster does not want to have a dyno run performed? It's been suggested several times. Instead, the approach seems to be to have a number of other people ride the bike and get still more "seat-of-the-pants" impressions, rather than get some hard facts.
The dealer cannot work with these kinds of vague comments.
My bike runs flawlessly and it's unmodified. There is no hint of any of the issues described by some of the other posts in this thread. I cannot do anything more than speculate on the OP's riding experience but perhaps it's been unduly influenced by the characteristics of a V4 engine, which is quite different from the I4 in the CB1100.
For the record, the above comments are not intended to assist anyone with an Internet solution; they are to vindicate the CB1100 as being a superb motorcycle. Whatever the issue that gave us this thread, it's an anomaly not in the least bit representative of the CB1100 I own, and I believe I speak for the vast majority of CB1100 owners when I say this.
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![[Image: 7ed42f96c94d8eb953a9c72c694ed14c.gif]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201404/7ed42f96c94d8eb953a9c72c694ed14c.gif) [url=attachment.php?aid=1317]Fuel Injection Sync 4-21-14.pptx (Size: 530.44 KB / Downloads: 38) Hello gentlemen. I will not respond to the people who questioned why I did not have my bike inspected on a dynamometer, or why I was relying on seat-of-the-pants riding impressions from skilled and experienced riders/mechanics. Nor will I reply to the comment about comparing the operating characteristics of a V4 versus an in-line 4. I will offer "proof" that my 2014 CB1100 does not run properly. Actually, the diagnosis was very simple, for anyone owning a $600.00 electronic vacuum gauge (as I would expect any qualified / authorized Honda dealer to have). As you can plainly see from the picture below, the fuel injectors on this bike are clearly not synchronized properly. Sorry if I "offended" any members of this forum by suggesting that there could possibly be some sort of manufacturing defect to our beloved CB1100.
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It's all good I just hope you get it fixed and running great. 
Michael
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(04-21-2014, 03:22 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: [url=attachment.php?aid=1317]Fuel Injection Sync 4-21-14.pptx (Size: 530.44 KB / Downloads: 38) Hello gentlemen. I will not respond to the people who questioned why I did not have my bike inspected on a dynamometer, or why I was relying on seat-of-the-pants riding impressions from skilled and experienced riders/mechanics. Nor will I reply to the comment about comparing the operating characteristics of a V4 versus an in-line 4. I will offer "proof" that my 2014 CB1100 does not run properly. Actually, the diagnosis was very simple, for anyone owning a $600.00 electronic vacuum gauge (as I would expect any qualified / authorized Honda dealer to have). As you can plainly see from the picture below, the fuel injectors on this bike are clearly not synchronized properly. Sorry if I "offended" any members of this forum by suggesting that there could possibly be some sort of manufacturing defect to our beloved CB1100. I can't figure out how to post a picture to the original reply, but it appears that the attachment can be opened. (At least there was an attachment to my original reply 5 minutes ago). If anyone can please explain to my how to include an attachment or a picture to a post I would appreciate it. This attachment shows an actual photograph of an electronic vacuum gauge attached to my CB1100 at idle. For those who may not understand how this gauge works, the red, horizontal lines indicate the actual vacuum measured simultaneously at each cylinder. The tolerance range for a properly adjusted fuel injection system is +/- 1cm Hg, whereas my bike varies by 4 1/2 cm Hg.
(04-21-2014, 03:33 PM)Ridem32_imp Wrote: It's all good I just hope you get it fixed and running great. 
Michael
Thank you Michael.
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(04-21-2014, 03:22 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: [url=attachment.php?aid=1317]Fuel Injection Sync 4-21-14.pptx (Size: 530.44 KB / Downloads: 38) Hello gentlemen. I will not respond to the people who questioned why I did not have my bike inspected on a dynamometer, or why I was relying on seat-of-the-pants riding impressions from skilled and experienced riders/mechanics. Nor will I reply to the comment about comparing the operating characteristics of a V4 versus an in-line 4. I will offer "proof" that my 2014 CB1100 does not run properly. Actually, the diagnosis was very simple, for anyone owning a $600.00 electronic vacuum gauge (as I would expect any qualified / authorized Honda dealer to have). As you can plainly see from the picture below, the fuel injectors on this bike are clearly not synchronized properly. Sorry if I "offended" any members of this forum by suggesting that there could possibly be some sort of manufacturing defect to our beloved CB1100.
Good on you! With that sorted, enjoy the ride.
Cheers
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I thought the flies on these were all on the same shaft and not adjustable. Could valves or an air leak or something else be causing the vacuum difference? I know you will keep us posted on how this is fixed.
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For those who are interested, here's Dave's picture,
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