Posts: 994
Threads: 61
Likes Received: 43 in 16 posts
Likes Given: 8
Joined: Dec 2013
Thank you to all the members who have replied. The Honda service department manager spoke to the Honda representative and you'll laugh at what he told him. The rep. said that the CB1100 motor has been "tamed" because this is what people who purchase this bike want, and that my bike is running correctly (please remember he is only responding from what the dealer told him). I really wasn't in any position to discuss this any further with the dealer so I thanked him for his help and left. I like Ferret's suggestion of having another forum member take my bike for a test ride, and if there are any of you out there in the San Diego area willing to do this for me then please let me know. I may be being picky about my bike, but after 40 years of riding and ownership of over 20 different motorcycles, I think I know when an engine in running properly and when it isn't. I am convinced my bike is running too lean below 3000 RPM, and therefor the very noticeable loss in torque in that range. I have a friend who is a certified mechanic that I haven't seen for a while and I think I will look him up and ask him to take my bike for a ride. My 1998 VFR800 pulls cleanly from idle, and I expect my 2014 CB1100 to at least do the same. This bike really is not enjoyable to ride like this. I don't know the proper way to address this with Honda at this point, other than to write them a letter, or to return my bike to the dealer and refuse to take it until they fix it, but this may get me no where. I do not want to spend a lot of money putting it on a dynamometer, and I'm convinced the dealer will stand by their "seat-of-the-pants" evaluation and not budge, concerning any type of warranty work. It has been suggested to me that I break it in fully and see if it improves (it has gotten better from my first day riding it). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Posts: 1,746
Threads: 13
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Oct 2013
Other option Chicago style. Make sure have great insurance, then park it in a not so good area with the keys in it.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posts: 364
Threads: 12
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Jan 2014
(04-20-2014, 03:46 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: Thank you to all the members who have replied. The Honda service department manager spoke to the Honda representative and you'll laugh at what he told him. The rep. said that the CB1100 motor has been "tamed" because this is what people who purchase this bike want, and that my bike is running correctly (please remember he is only responding from what the dealer told him). I really wasn't in any position to discuss this any further with the dealer so I thanked him for his help and left. I like Ferret's suggestion of having another forum member take my bike for a test ride, and if there are any of you out there in the San Diego area willing to do this for me then please let me know. I may be being picky about my bike, but after 40 years of riding and ownership of over 20 different motorcycles, I think I know when an engine in running properly and when it isn't. I am convinced my bike is running too lean below 3000 RPM, and therefor the very noticeable loss in torque in that range. I have a friend who is a certified mechanic that I haven't seen for a while and I think I will look him up and ask him to take my bike for a ride. My 1998 VFR800 pulls cleanly from idle, and I expect my 2014 CB1100 to at least do the same. This bike really is not enjoyable to ride like this. I don't know the proper way to address this with Honda at this point, other than to write them a letter, or to return my bike to the dealer and refuse to take it until they fix it, but this may get me no where. I do not want to spend a lot of money putting it on a dynamometer, and I'm convinced the dealer will stand by their "seat-of-the-pants" evaluation and not budge, concerning any type of warranty work. It has been suggested to me that I break it in fully and see if it improves (it has gotten better from my first day riding it). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you. Make them prove it's been tamed. It's already pretty tame. What did they do, make it into a beginner's retro? The CA bike runs the same as the 49-state motorcycle. We've seen plenty of dyno tests that show the power curve, torque and horsepower.
This thing pulls strong off the bottom, stronger than any VFR except the 1200. Also, there is no magical break-in. It should run great from the first mile.
Do not accept this nonsense; take it to the top. Complain at the highest levels. Ask what the engine power for the 2014 is compared to the 2013. They have to report that. Get your own dyno test done to show exactly how the bike IS running. Why keep guessing and relying on some clown saying it's been detuned? No way. The Ferret's had the 2013 and now has a 2014, he's not reported any lame powerband.
We all know how this bike runs, and it's awesome. Something is wrong with your motorcycle.
I guess if you want to go to the trouble of finding someone in California to ride your bike, you can, but really, after spending so much to purchase the bike, you'd be better served getting a dyno test so you can present the chart to Honda and show how it differs from the 2013. Keep the bike, it can be fixed, but your dealer is not handling this and whoever spoke to you from Honda is not fully aware of the situation, as you mentioned.
You want this fixed, you need FACTS so get that dyno run done. Seat of the pants will get you nowhere, you will know nothing for sure just having some other guy ride the bike. This is a warranty issue and you'll have to be persistent and patient, but relentless. If you don't know how to handle this, you'll have to learn by doing. There are laws about these things, and in fact, if the issue you are having is emissions-related, the Federal Government would also be involved.
Spending one more minute trying to solve this on the Internet, sorry to say, would be a waste of your time.
Posts: 65
Threads: 0
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Feb 2014
was there any miles on the bike when you bought it? if there was I think who ever put your bike togeather and test rode it, something happen. and not from the factory. my bike had 0 miles on it so I was first one to try it, my bike will pull 2nd gear from 1100 rpm's to 3,000 rpm smooth, and clean without jearking or complaining.
Posts: 1,357
Threads: 51
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2014
If it was me & I was not sure how bike should run. I would ride another bike and atleast compare that way you will know. Tell a friend to go to your honda shop tell let him tell them he wants to buy the used 13 model but he wants to test drive it. Meet him down the road and you drive it ! If the 13 is different call American honda in your owners manual. All I can say is my bike runs great thru all gears and thru all RPMS I have to say one of if not the best pulling smooth running motor honda has. If you yourself knows for sure your bike is not running right take it back to dealer and tell them to FIX IT It's a brand new bike and it should run as new. I bet it's something simple. The way you talk no power at low rpms sputtering at idle etc sounds like a bad spark plug. But your dealer should know if it's running on 3 cylinders. You need to ride another bike & compare then you can go to war with honda and win !
Michael
3 rights make a left
Posts: 364
Threads: 12
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Jan 2014
(04-21-2014, 01:08 AM)Ridem32_imp Wrote: If it was me & I was not sure how bike should run. I would ride another bike and atleast compare that way you will know. Tell a friend to go to your honda shop tell let him tell them he wants to buy the used 13 model but he wants to test drive it. Meet him down the road and you drive it ! If the 13 is different call American honda in your owners manual. All I can say is my bike runs great thru all gears and thru all RPMS I have to say one of if not the best pulling smooth running motor honda has. If you yourself knows for sure your bike is not running right take it back to dealer and tell them to FIX IT It's a brand new bike and it should run as new. I bet it's something simple. The way you talk no power at low rpms sputtering at idle etc sounds like a bad spark plug. But your dealer should know if it's running on 3 cylinders. You need to ride another bike & compare then you can go to war with honda and win !
Michael
3 rights make a left Yes, that's an idea, but the deception could be dispensed with. If your dealer has a used 2013 there should be absolutely no reason why they should not let you test ride it to compare. A new bike, without a test ride policy, I can see them saying no. But a used bike, they should have no issue with your riding that bike at all. Unless, that is, they have something to hide.
BTW, your deal seems to be less than what they should.
Posts: 1,357
Threads: 51
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2014
I agree they should let you ride a used bike. Heck you just bought a brand new bike from them ! I would think the guy working on it would want to ride the 13 himself so he could compare it ! Most of the guys in service have never even rode a cb1100 my dealer is very large they sold one 13 last year and I'm the only one so far to buy the 14 from them. So even my large power house dealer have not rode them. The sales guy could not even get my seat off. Got a guy from service he had to go look it up in the shop manual just to get my seat off. I did not know how. I had never even sit on a cb1100 till I got mine lol
Michael
3 rights make a left
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 68
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Apr 2013
Dave,
This is unfortunate but not unusual. Dealers are very similar with there approach in these situations. Wish i was in your area to help you out. I had a similar problem with a 2011 GSXR 750 a couple of years ago, the bike had several flat spots. I never got any satisfaction and sold it with 1300mi.
http://www.gsxr.com/showthread.php?t=87615
Posts: 994
Threads: 61
Likes Received: 43 in 16 posts
Likes Given: 8
Joined: Dec 2013
Gentlemen, thank you all for you input. There may be just one small, misconception though. My bike will pull strongly below 3000 RPM if I twist the throttle back far enough, it just doesn't "inject" cleanly at very small throttle openings and with a light load. With very light (small) throttle openings and at a constant speed (I've performed this test in the first three gears) you can definitely hear the motor gurgling, that I am convinced is due to an excessively lean condition. This is annoying because when I ride around town I am not twisting the throttle back any further than I need to (and I am being easy because I am breaking it in), and you can feel and hear the leanness. However, if I just twist the throttle back and accelerate briskly it cleans-up and runs very well. But, this is an 1100cc motor, and (from my experience) you shouldn't have to twist the throttle back this far riding around town - besides, you're very quickly going way past the speed limit around town. I can ride my fuel-injected VFR800 around town all day and not experience the same "lean" sensation or torque drop-off. My VFR injects smoothly and evenly at all RPM levels, from idle up to red line. Additionally, when I do twist the throttle on the CB1100 and accelerate briskly and shift at about 3300 - 3400 RPM, I feel a definite torque drop when the RPM drops below 3000 when I engage the next gear. I expected a smooth and linear torque curve, not one that drops off below 3000 RPM. I am going to meet with my mechanic friend tonight and see what he says after a test ride (his personal commuter is a Yamaha FZ1000).
Again, I thank all of you for your feedback and I will update you soon.
Posts: 530
Threads: 5
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Apr 2013
Just fyi, my CB would not run smooth under 2000rpm if I was holding constant speed in 1st or 2nd. Such as when going down a small residential street or through a parking lot it would jerk and lurch. Above 2000 rpm in 1st or 2nd, it would run smooth if holding steady throttle. In 3rd, I felt 2000rpm was lugging too much so I'm not counting that. I think this is typical for stock. Your description sounds like it is worse than this.
|