O2 sensor eliminator not working on CB1100rs 2017

[max]

Hi Enzo, in addition to Powerdubs explanation i disconnected my o2 sensor because;
As mentioned at low loads and steady riding the engine would subtly " switch " the fuel mixture between rich and lean.

The type of oxygen sensor in our cb1100's is a narrow band sensor which means when warmed up the output voltage changes from just below 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio ( google ) to just above ( leaner, more than 14.7 air mixture ) this is an optimum combustion or "stoichiometric" exhaust gas value, it changes from 0.2 volts below 14.7:1 to 0.8 volts above 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture fairly quickly ( narrow band ).
The change in voltage output ( i measured this by having a small voltmeter on the handlebars connected to the o2 sensor ) changes the fuel mixture, this happens quite abrubt on my 2010 cb and resulted in a "surging " ride; the bike responded by subtly speeding up and slowing down on a constant basis.

Initially i did not notice it much but after some steady rides it became annoying so i followed Ferret's advice and connected a 330 ohm resistor "o2 eliminator " in place of the o2 heater element ( this stopped the orange cel light from complaining )
The ecu monitors the current through the o2 sensor heating element and sets a fault code when the o2 heating element does not draw current.

As Houtman has experienced this strategy has changed in some newer models so another method has been/needs to be found to "eliminate" the o2 sensor's influence on the air/fuel mixture control in our ecu.

To my knowledge it has no effect on the ride or performance of the bike that i have noticed other than it stopped the engine's slightly erratic behavior on steady rides.

[Enzofour_imp]

Hi Enzo, in addition to Powerdubs explanation i disconnected my o2 sensor because;
As mentioned at low loads and steady riding the engine would subtly " switch " the fuel mixture between rich and lean.

The type of oxygen sensor in our cb1100's is a narrow band sensor which means when warmed up the output voltage changes from just below 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio ( google ) to just above ( leaner, more than 14.7 air mixture ) this is an optimum combustion or "stoichiometric" exhaust gas value, it changes from 0.2 volts below 14.7:1 to 0.8 volts above 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture fairly quickly ( narrow band ).
The change in voltage output ( i measured this by having a small voltmeter on the handlebars connected to the o2 sensor ) changes the fuel mixture, this happens quite abrubt on my 2010 cb and resulted in a "surging " ride; the bike responded by subtly speeding up and slowing down on a constant basis.

Initially i did not notice it much but after some steady rides it became annoying so i followed Ferret's advice and connected a 330 ohm resistor "o2 eliminator " in place of the o2 heater element ( this stopped the orange cel light from complaining )
The ecu monitors the current through the o2 sensor heating element and sets a fault code when the o2 heating element does not draw current.

As Houtman has experienced this strategy has changed in some newer models so another method has been/needs to be found to "eliminate" the o2 sensor's influence on the air/fuel mixture control in our ecu.

To my knowledge it has no effect on the ride or performance of the bike that i have noticed other than it stopped the engine's slightly erratic behavior on steady rides.

Hi Max, I have long purchased these specific for 2014 do you recommend to install them?

[max]

Enzo going by what Houtman posted " I had two of them on my 2017 EX , did not work , two on my 2014 DLX worked perfectly . " it would very likely work on your 2014 model.

Thanks to the Ferret's suggestion and description;

The only benefit would be the elimination of the subtle surging at moderate steady rides if that bothers you.

The o2 sensors will deteriorate over time if left disconnected by sooting up which is why they provede the stainless inserts.

If it was me i would leave the o2 sensors in place and only use the 2 connectors to see if your ecu sets a code with them installed.
If everything works as planned after 1000 km maybe take the next step and swap the o2 sensors for the inserts.

If the connectors don't work and set a code there is a simple sequsnce to clear the code in the ecu which involves a wire link and some instructions which worked for me on my 2010/13 model;

The ecu may set faultcode 21 if the o2 sensor is disconnected;

21

engine operates normally

faulty oxygen sensor

Here is the procedure to reset a fault code ;

The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed.

For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them.



Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.

Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.

When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.

The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.

Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.

Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat.

here is a video that shows what's required and how to do the reset;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwSllBQNsWc

Of course if you have the healtech diagnostic tool that will reset the code too.

That is all i know about the o2 sensors Enzo, hope this helps.

[Enzofour_imp]

Enzo going by what Houtman posted " I had two of them on my 2017 EX , did not work , two on my 2014 DLX worked perfectly . " it would very likely work on your 2014 model.

Thanks to the Ferret's suggestion and description;

The only benefit would be the elimination of the subtle surging at moderate steady rides if that bothers you.

The o2 sensors will deteriorate over time if left disconnected by sooting up which is why they provede the stainless inserts.

If it was me i would leave the o2 sensors in place and only use the 2 connectors to see if your ecu sets a code with them installed.
If everything works as planned after 1000 km maybe take the next step and swap the o2 sensors for the inserts.

If the connectors don't work and set a code there is a simple sequsnce to clear the code in the ecu which involves a wire link and some instructions which worked for me on my 2010/13 model;

The ecu may set faultcode 21 if the o2 sensor is disconnected;

21

engine operates normally

faulty oxygen sensor

Here is the procedure to reset a fault code ;

The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed.

For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them.



Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.

Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.

When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.

The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.

Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.

Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat.

here is a video that shows what's required and how to do the reset;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwSllBQNsWc

Of course if you have the healtech diagnostic tool that will reset the code too.

That is all i know about the o2 sensors Enzo, hope this helps.

Thanks Max, you were very clear.

[Denbow_imp]

I bought a pair for my 2020 RS, yes they need one for each sensor.
Sorry to report I removed them and returned to the supplier (Ebay UK)
within 5 minutes of running because all they did was increase the idle to 2000 rpm and the ABS light wouldn't go off.
Not wanting to splash out £100s on a Power Commander just to smooth out the low speed jerky throttle caused by a lean air/fuel mixture, I researched the so called 'Booster Plug' which receives countless positive feedback, bought one, fitted in under 10 minutes and it's transformed the bike.
Basically what they do is fool the ECU into thinking the temperature is 10 degrees colder, thus preventing a lean mixture at small throttle openings, particular noticeable in town traffic. Some will say this must be at the cost of higher fuel consumption.... no, mine has increased from 52 to 55 mpg (imperial).
Don't take my word for it, research the product and read the feedback for yourself.

[jtopiso_imp]

I bought a pair for my 2020 RS, yes they need one for each sensor.
Sorry to report I removed them and returned to the supplier (Ebay UK)
within 5 minutes of running because all they did was increase the idle to 2000 rpm and the ABS light wouldn't go off.
Not wanting to splash out £100s on a Power Commander just to smooth out the low speed jerky throttle caused by a lean air/fuel mixture, I researched the so called 'Booster Plug' which receives countless positive feedback, bought one, fitted in under 10 minutes and it's transformed the bike.
Basically what they do is fool the ECU into thinking the temperature is 10 degrees colder, thus preventing a lean mixture at small throttle openings, particular noticeable in town traffic. Some will say this must be at the cost of higher fuel consumption.... no, mine has increased from 52 to 55 mpg (imperial).
Don't take my word for it, research the product and read the feedback for yourself.

Any issues with MOT?

Running rich must affect CO readings. Do they test that in the UK?

[ichiban_imp]

I bought a pair for my 2020 RS, yes they need one for each sensor.
Sorry to report I removed them and returned to the supplier (Ebay UK)
within 5 minutes of running because all they did was increase the idle to 2000 rpm and the ABS light wouldn't go off.
Not wanting to splash out £100s on a Power Commander just to smooth out the low speed jerky throttle caused by a lean air/fuel mixture, I researched the so called 'Booster Plug' which receives countless positive feedback, bought one, fitted in under 10 minutes and it's transformed the bike.
Basically what they do is fool the ECU into thinking the temperature is 10 degrees colder, thus preventing a lean mixture at small throttle openings, particular noticeable in town traffic. Some will say this must be at the cost of higher fuel consumption.... no, mine has increased from 52 to 55 mpg (imperial).
Don't take my word for it, research the product and read the feedback for yourself.

Any issues with MOT?

Running rich must affect CO readings. Do they test that in the UK?

Any issues with MOT?

Running rich must affect CO readings. Do they test that in the UK?
There is no emission test for bikes in the UK, so knock yourself out.

[curated_imp]

Cut a small piece of black electrician's tape and put it right over the "check engine" light.

Haha, this right here

[Houtman_imp]

Cut a small piece of black electrician's tape and put it right over the "check engine" light.

Haha, this right here

Haha, this right here
In 2004 I did exactly that to get a Chrysler MINI van thru an inspection in UPSTATE NY ! and it worked .

[TheLegend]

Hi dear fellows,
do you think or know if this device fit the 2017 RS NA and if it has some satisfactory results? If anyone has used something like this maybe they have some feedback, much appreciated, thank you!     

https://sportouring.com/products/booster...-and-newer