CLUTCH FLUID CHANGE

[Lord Popgun]

Normal. Amber is the color of the Honda fluid. With 2 Hondas, I’ve seen a lot of that fluid.

[Townie_imp]

Normal. Amber is the color of the Honda fluid. With 2 Hondas, I’ve seen a lot of that fluid.

Thanks Popgun. I'll carry-on then.

[max]

Last time i also unbolted the slave cylinder and pushed the old fluid out and back into the reservoir, used a tool to overcome the spring inside and checked for leaks, cleaned and applied a light smear of grease to protect the exposed part of the cylinder against corrosion before filling new fluid, the old clutch fluid was very dark for some reason and used towels on the tank like popgun mentioned.

[Houtman_imp]

I use the CLEAR Valvoline brake fluid , easier to see when all the old and darker fluid is gone.

[billyjax_imp]

Popgan, you are correct.

Generally speaking, there are four different methods, depending on equipment availability and skills. Period.

1* by gravity, - crack bleeder and let fluid leak out while topping up reservoir - long and less efficient/sufficient - I do not use this method, may not purge air from the system.
2* by pumping clutch/brake lever and cracking bleeder, while topping up reservoir. Advanced step of this method is to attach one end of clear hose to the bleeder, and the other hose end to insert into container with brake fluid. Once you bleed/purge entire system, including clear hose, you no longer need to crack your bleeder = stays open while pumping clutch/brake lever. Last step: close bleeder, pump lever couple of times, crack and close bleeder while applying lever. Completed. Very good and efficient method - no special equipment required. Simple to do at home/garage
3* by suction - requires suction machine, while topping up reservoir. Very good and efficient method but suction tool & compressor required.
4* by pressure- requires special tool with brake fluid container and compressor. Pressure is appleid on top of fluid reservoir while cracking bleeder. The best and most superior method.
Handless all applications, electric cars, hybrid, multi piston callipers, combined ABS, one person can do all, once machine is set up properly with knowledgeable operator.

Only use unopened container, as brake fluid absorbs moisture, preventing hydraulic system from corrosion/failure. Use designated DOT. CB takes DOT 4.

Don't experiment with silicone brake fluid, as you may ruin all your seals.
Good luck to all. Always test your brakes prior riding

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.
Is it ok/safe to use Preston Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid :

https://prestone.com/product/prestone-do...ake-fluid/

Thanks

[peterbaron]

Popgan, you are correct.

Generally speaking, there are four different methods, depending on equipment availability and skills. Period.

1* by gravity, - crack bleeder and let fluid leak out while topping up reservoir - long and less efficient/sufficient - I do not use this method, may not purge air from the system.
2* by pumping clutch/brake lever and cracking bleeder, while topping up reservoir. Advanced step of this method is to attach one end of clear hose to the bleeder, and the other hose end to insert into container with brake fluid. Once you bleed/purge entire system, including clear hose, you no longer need to crack your bleeder = stays open while pumping clutch/brake lever. Last step: close bleeder, pump lever couple of times, crack and close bleeder while applying lever. Completed. Very good and efficient method - no special equipment required. Simple to do at home/garage
3* by suction - requires suction machine, while topping up reservoir. Very good and efficient method but suction tool & compressor required.
4* by pressure- requires special tool with brake fluid container and compressor. Pressure is appleid on top of fluid reservoir while cracking bleeder. The best and most superior method.
Handless all applications, electric cars, hybrid, multi piston callipers, combined ABS, one person can do all, once machine is set up properly with knowledgeable operator.

Only use unopened container, as brake fluid absorbs moisture, preventing hydraulic system from corrosion/failure. Use designated DOT. CB takes DOT 4.

Don't experiment with silicone brake fluid, as you may ruin all your seals.
Good luck to all. Always test your brakes prior riding

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.
Is it ok/safe to use Preston Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid :

https://prestone.com/product/prestone-do...ake-fluid/

Thanks

Thanks Peterbaron for all the great info.
Is it ok/safe to use Preston Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid :

https://prestone.com/product/prestone-do...ake-fluid/

Thanks
All my cars and motorcycles have DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid flushed frequently.

[GoldOxide_imp]

I've never had to flush hydraulic clutch fluid unless the system was proven to be no longer closed.

This has been the same with every car I've owned. If the system has a leak, then yeah - the fluid will show it.

[Tev62]

I wonder if the clutch system comes complete with master/slave cylinder and the line prefilled with Dot 4 before it gets to the production line? I mean from a different supplier to the brake system. My 2017MY had very different clutch and brake fluid colours when I bled mine last year. I would be 99% sure the previous owner didn't have either bled as it had the original engine oil in the bike at 9,000km (He had the first service and that was it). I can't imagine one discolouring more than the other in the same timeframe and it could just be down to two different fluid brands.

[GoldOxide_imp]

I wonder if the clutch system comes complete with master/slave cylinder and the line prefilled with Dot 4 before it gets to the production line? I mean from a different supplier to the brake system. My 2017MY had very different clutch and brake fluid colours when I bled mine last year. I would be 99% sure the previous owner didn't have either bled as it had the original engine oil in the bike at 9,000km (He had the first service and that was it). I can't imagine one discolouring more than the other in the same timeframe and it could just be down to two different fluid brands.

I also assumed dark was "bad" and certainly I still can't help to think otherwise. Oxidation destroys.

That said, the fluid needs to be exposed to air and other contaminants. The last vehicle I had a brake fluid bleed performed was back in 1993. Most of my cages go the whole lifetime without a brake fluid bleed as long as the system remains closed. If it is not, then fluid change ought to be done. The last m/c bleed I did was in '84 because the reservoir "wasn't a closed system" (it was cracked).

I have had these discussions with service garages many times over the years and they don't do it unless a major brake service is being done. I can't imagine the environment liking having to process used brake fluid at a frequency of engine oil changes.

Today's hydraulic fluids and closed systems isn't our father's nor grandfather's. Nevertheless, I keep evaluating and asking technicians from time-to-time to look for a variation in opinion. Maybe motorcycle systems need to be bleed more often due to its smaller closed system footprint. However, I have not heard that argument either.

[Lord Popgun]

Lexus changes brake fluid at 30K miles. Not sure when they do it next and would have to check the service schedule.