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Oil and filter
#11
Django..correction...You need an extension and ratchet to drive the oil cup OR a 17 mm socket and ratchet, OR a 17 mm open or box end wrench,. A ratchet, a med extension and the oil filter cup is the way to go on a DLX between pipes 2&3. On a standard, coming on from the left side with the box end wrench may possibly be the best way to go.
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#12
Thanks for the replies guys. The oil filter set looks interesting. I have the #17 socket already.

Any suggestions about getting the washers from a hardware store?

Regards,
Satchit
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#13
If there is a Honda car dealer near you go to parts dept and buy a 14 mm crush washer off a Civic I think. Same exact part 94109-14000 and cheap at the car dealership. Although it's nice to have one on hand, I have changed my oil 10 times and used the original crush washer 9 times. Would have used it 10 times but it fell into the drain pan and I didn't feel like fishing it out so used a new one I had on hand.

You can check your old one easily by running your thumbnail across it and see if you nail catches an edge, where the crush washer was, well, crushed lol. If it's smooth all the way across, it will be fine to reuse.
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#14
(10-22-2017, 12:01 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: If there is a Honda car dealer near you go to parts dept and buy a 14 mm crush washer off a Civic I think. Same exact part 94109-14000 and cheap at the car dealership. Although it's nice to have one on hand, I have changed my oil 10 times and used the original crush washer 9 times. Would have used it 10 times but it fell into the drain pan and I didn't feel like fishing it out so used a new one I had on hand.

You can check your old one easily by running your thumbnail across it and see if you nail catches an edge, where the crush washer was, well, crushed lol. If it's smooth all the way across, it will be fine to reuse.

I take a file to mine and smooth it out at every change...no drips yet after 4 changes.
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#15
I would not get a washer from Home Depot. Like Ferret mentioned, these are crush washers, not just steel washers. They should be used only once, but many people use them more than once (like Pdedse and Ferret) with no problems. YMMV
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#16
I have sometimes used a flat piece of sandpaper and just move the washer over that a few times, easy with aluminum washers.
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#17
Like ferret, I have used the factory washers many times over on different bikes and have never had a leak.
That said, I usually have spare washers for each bike and eventually do use them.
None of this is to say that using a new one every time isn't a good idea because it is.
Do whatever works for you.
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#18
Just to add a little info on the washer, since you guys have helped me in the past, when you crush the washer you have stressed it past the yield point into the plastic stress range. Not only was it permanently deformed but there is a residual stress in the washer material when you remove the oil plug. Bolts are routinely tightened into the plastic range in construction but they are not supposed to be reused. Of course there we are talking about critical fasteners on steel structures and we are only talking about crush washers here that are easy to see if they leak. But everything that effects my CB1100 is critical to me!
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#19
What is a plastic stress range?
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#20
At first tightening the alu washer get pressed and can change its form minimally to adapt to the uneven surface.

The second time, it's already pressed/deformed an cannot adapt the same way. It was plastically deformed already.

That's why we should use new washers every time. However, it's not that critical.

But you can notice, how the washer soft forms, when it is tightened the first time. It does not feel the same the second time.

That washer costs about 50 cent...

Ah, and I think the thickness of the Honda OEM washers is 2 mm, when it's new. Others usually only have 1.5 mm.
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