8000 Mile Valve Adjustment requirement

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Here's what a moto journalist has to say about it . . .

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/tech-t...tervals-it

Not that motojournalists know anything just because they are motojournalists (that means the person helped write a press release once, lol) but Jerry Smith, yes, very credible source there. A fellow geezer.

The man does not mince words, reflecting my own experience over the years:

Ignore the forum chatter. The loudmouth who says you never have to check your valves won’t pay for repairs should something happen and won’t stand behind you when the dealer denies warranty coverage because you haven’t followed the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule. Also, should you decide to sell your bike, you’ll have to find a similarly maintenance-averse buyer to accept the fact that you haven’t checked the valves. The odds are very slight that you’ll ever have valve train-related problems, but knowledge is far more useful than hearsay.

But again, each to his/her own. We take more chances going out on the road than with going longer than the specified maintenance interval.

Here's a bike Mr. Smith rode for Rider magazine earlier this year, something eerily familiar about it:
[attachment=4938]

[olekzap_imp]

Had my valves checked for the first time today at 13k miles. Attached a picture of the tech's notes. Total only came to $380. Nothing was horribly out of spec but still glad I got it done.

http://imgur.com/a/z4bqB

[Ulvetanna_imp]

I would say that unless you are beating it to death and constantly running near the red line you should be OK to go over the 8000. Valve train wear is accelerated at high RPM's.

Mine were all in spec, I run it into the rev limiter occasionally.

As The ferret stated, take your trip and then have them checked. Don't do it early, if anything, do it later. They'll likely be in spec anyway but at least give them a chance to go out.

[bflint]

I had the valve clearance checked after my trip at 12K on odometer (Nov 2016). Dealer said all good; no adjustments made. Cost $800. Now (Dec 2017) bike is at 20K and going to have the valves checked again.

[the Ferret]

That's good news, but $800? .... WOW

I see you are in So Cal... maybe you can talk Ulvetanna into checking them for you for a good steak dinner?

[dbarkdoll_imp]

Holy. Freaking. CRAP.

800 dollars. For an inspection and no adjustment. I'm sorry, but that it is absolutely ludicrous in my mind. Coulda almost got a full exhaust kit for that much.

[nhawk7504_imp]

These modern motors don't need the valves looked at like they used to. A Yamaha dealer told me about my FZ1, "I'm not going to waste your money. Just ride it." Valves go out of spec by redlining it. Having said that, a VFR was run flat out for 24 hours by a test team and was still as new after that when they took it apart. I had the valves "checked" ha ha, which means they started it and it didn't stall and then they wound up the motor near redline and it didn't miss a beat. It does one or the other when out of spec. Or it is obviously noisy.

[Guth_imp]

These modern motors don't need the valves looked at like they used to. A Yamaha dealer told me about my FZ1, "I'm not going to waste your money. Just ride it." Valves go out of spec by redlining it. Having said that, a VFR was run flat out for 24 hours by a test team and was still as new after that when they took it apart. I had the valves "checked" ha ha, which means they started it and it didn't stall and then they wound up the motor near redline and it didn't miss a beat. It does one or the other when out of spec. Or it is obviously noisy.

Just be sure to let us know where to write in order to obtain our "nhawk7504 warranty vouchers"!

[Ulvetanna_imp]

These modern motors don't need the valves looked at like they used to. A Yamaha dealer told me about my FZ1, "I'm not going to waste your money. Just ride it." Valves go out of spec by redlining it. Having said that, a VFR was run flat out for 24 hours by a test team and was still as new after that when they took it apart. I had the valves "checked" ha ha, which means they started it and it didn't stall and then they wound up the motor near redline and it didn't miss a beat. It does one or the other when out of spec. Or it is obviously noisy.

The Yamaha FZ1 has a Genesis engine, which calls for valve clearance checks at 26,600 miles (42,800 km). These engines have very light valves and extremely durable materials in the valve train. Also, liquid-cooled engines have much more stable temperatures, which is why they can go far longer between inspections.

Keep in mind that a quiet engine may have tight valves, drastically more dangerous than if they are loose. The valve helps to cool the engine when it contacts the valve seat. The valve timing is critical to this function. If a valve spends too much time hanging out on the seat, it and the seat, and the combustion chamber will run hot. Parts will be destroyed. I've pulled apart two liquid-cooled engines where this occurred.

The edges of the valves were pounded so thin, they were almost razor-sharp, and did not seal properly. The first sign of this is very hard starting.

As Guth humorously pointed out, without a warranty voucher, perhaps a routine check, as Honda recommends, would be in order.

There is a reason why these service schedules are in place, and whilst they're expensive, they're to protect your investment and perhaps your safety, not to enrich dealers.

All that said, I did my own valve inspection (have done for the last 35 years on all my bikes) and all was perfect.

But without an inspection, it's just a guess.

[Guth_imp]

That's right — what's the old saying Ulvetanna? A tappy valve is a happy valve (or something to that effect).