early 80's style cb1100f signal conversion...hard?

[PowerDubs_imp]

For someone that is afraid to turn a wrench, you sure can draw pretty computer pictures.

Why not make 2 cuts? Hack off the mount as you wanted, but then take that same mount you just removed and cut a slice of the 'end cap' to reuse the mounting face. Stick a piece of rubber between if you don't want to rub upon assembly. This seems to be a quick easy solution and would allow you to use your existing parts.

Once cut off, use a bench grinder or a least a dremel to smooth and prep the surface.

[misterprofessionality]

Dremel I have, thankfully. yours is not a bad idea. The only problem I can see with it is that I would only be using the last maybe 5/8" of the mount that I cut off, and that part is no longer shaped like the base of the mount. it deforms from a kind of squashed oval to a more circular shape at the end. since it's steel, I wouldn't be able to reshape it. i'm afraid if i use an improperly shaped bit like that there will be ugly gaps in the whole assembly. Maybe if there was some way to fill it...

Aluminum however.....I can mess with that. As you say, I can't turn a wrench, but i can light a torch, and I can solder/braze. some skills I picked up in totally unrelated fields. I'm currently cooking up a plan to assemble a new, correctly shaped mount out of aluminum and rubber, as was suggested by Cormanus. if that part of the plan works out, I can paint it with some sort of black automotive paint, and use the same to seal up the raw cut edge on the headlight stay.

Once I get my replacement Headlight Stay (already on order!) i'll know a lot more about whether or not my rough plan will work. when I do, i'll post it here before taking the hacksaw out.

[peterbaron]

6 thread pages, 52 posts for few wires of one set motorcycle turn signals =



I like this classic one: two versus four = easy, NO DTRL



Sorry, but this is kindergarten tutoring, not a project.
Should call Nicola Tesla...might be long distance, land line, not cell..

[misterprofessionality]

oh, peter, keep reading. i figured out the electrical connection first. the problem is no longer electrical, it's structural. I've been trying to figure out a way to mount the signals, not connect them. if you know a way, do make a suggestion.

[peterbaron]

Need two pics: lights = one side and mounting base = the other ...so your problem is how to link them together mechanically, correct??
What year CB??

[Houtman_imp]

Would using hand signals even be easier …..

[misterprofessionality]

Need two pics: lights = one side and mounting base = the other ...so your problem is how to link them together mechanically, correct??
What year CB??

Peter, no, the basic obstacle is the OEM signals use a very different mount than the signals i intend to use. It's what you call a "Square peg in a round hole" situation. They are also much longer than the OEM signals, so I need to bring the mounting position closer to the body in order to compensate. That's why i'm considering different ways to retrofit and relocate the signal mounting positions.

i'm at work at the moment, but I can provide you with a few more pictures in the next few days. the new signals should arrive next week.

Would using hand signals even be easier …..

Not a smart way to ride.

[Houtman_imp]

I see a lot of one finger signals while driving/riding these days.
( no , not in my direction I have to add )

[misterprofessionality]

Hot dog, progress!

First, I've got a spare headlight/signal stay and cut off the original signal post. Then, made a new bracket from scratch modeled on the shape and design of the original '82 signal bracket. All it took was me some aluminum, a hacksaw, dremel, and a torch!



After that I got together a couple of appropriately sized bolts, and slipped on the reproduction '82 signals and voila! I still have to paint over the rough hewn edges with rust guard and matte black paint, but it's looking really promising. Next step will be to see if my local shop can give me a quote for swapping out the stays.






This way I can get my period-correct signals without damaging any of my original parts.

[Cormanus]

Nice work MrP. Good on you for persisting.