Bike acting like it’s in neutral when it’s in 1st gear

[carlenn_imp]

Hey all,

Not sure what’s going on exactly but when I tried to go for a ride today, my bike wouldn’t move. Turned on fine, shifted into 1st fine, but the bike was still acting like it was in neutral—no friction zone, bike didn’t even stall when I took my hand off the clutch. Same thing when I shifted up to 2nd gear. Could feel the shift, and the shift registered on the dash, but couldn’t pull out of the parking space.

It was working fine last night, so it’s a pretty sudden change. Didn’t see any signs of someone tampering with it. Suspecting maybe clutch fluid? Any other suggestions or similar situations?

[pekingduck]

Uhhhh, that's an interesting problem. It's a mystery it happened overnight

If the chain or sprockets were changed recently, it is possible the retaining bolt and washer fell off and the sprocket slid off the countershaft. You could tell because the chain would be loose and not turning smoothly on the centerstand.

If the clutch were way overfilled or the clutch master cylinder was clogged and not releasing pressure, it might behave as if it was always pulled in. How many miles on the bike?

[carlenn_imp]

Around 8,000 miles. Chain and sprockets are fine for what I know—weren’t recently replaced. Oil recently changed. Took it to the shop to replace front tire about 2 months ago and the only thing they noticed was that the rear brake pads needed to be replaced, which was done same day.

[Lord Popgun]

If that bike is a ‘14 and you have never flushed the fluids, that could be a good place to start. Just by what Pekingduck said about the master cylinder. Flush the clutch.

Make sure you first remove all the fluid from the MC geting it all out down to the bottom where crud likes to settle to. Then put in new fluid and do the flush. Never pull the lever with no fluid in the MC. AND cover your tank as brake fluid will ruin/remove paint.

[max]

To check the clutch plates movement you can remove the plastic black oil filler plug on the right hand side and have a look inside.

Do not run the engine with the oil filler cap removed, it will splash out of the opening!

I can see about 2 mm movement in the clutch basket which is right below the opening if the clutch lever is pulled in through that opening.

Another thing to check is when the bike is on the centerstand with the engine off ; put it in gear and rotate the rear wheel, notice any unusual sounds or movement of the chain.

[the Ferret]

Put it in first with engine off and rock it forward and see if it actually went into gear. If it did pull in clutch and see if it will freely push forward.

[carlenn_imp]

I wasn’t home for most of the day yesterday to take a closer look, but I spent all this time posting and asking people and trying to guess what it could’ve been. Was up late getting Dot 4 — maybe I need to bleed the fluids. Finally was about to work on it today and guess what?

Someone stole my chain. WHO STEALS A CHAIN?

Next thing on the to do list: replace the chain.

[jtopiso_imp]

No matter how thorough a checklist is made, it will always miss some very basic stuff


Problem: there is no drive
check:
-Are you riding a bike, and not a sofa?
-Is the engine on?
-Are both (number must be two) tyres in contact with the ground?
...
...
-Is there a chain?

I wouldn't have thought of this one!

[cookiemech]

How is it even possible to steal a chain??? This is an endless chain, so would require a chain breaker and/or a grinder, or a cutoff wheel.

I'd like to hear the rest of this story.

[max]

Hmmm, can't even trust new rear brake pads these days