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Don't judge me, LOL!!! I have some physical limitations with nerve damage in my left index finger, but still want to ride. Has anyone removed, say, 2 springs/bolts off the clutch mechanism to reduce the strength required to pull the clutch lever? I've been searching madly for some sort of reduction in the pull strength required, and seeing this as an option that some motocross riders employ on their bikes.
Also looking at Clake clutch handles, but they don't appear to be an exact fit.
Ultimately may wind up going with a DCT bike, but until then...
Thanks...
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I could be missing something, but my clutch is hydraulic, not a cable. I don't think the Moose would be compatible?
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(02-04-2020, 01:18 AM)m in sc_imp Wrote: ?
https://www.revzilla.com/dirt-bike/moose...tch-system
Good Call, Great to know!
Never knew that this type of device ever existed.
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Jeeves that is what the 2017 cb1100 uses in it's clutch basket, it has 3 springs instead of six in the 2013 models.
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...332/clutch
So removing two or even three out of six sounds plausible to me just compare it with the 2013 below;
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...23b/clutch .
It has a different mechanical system to make up for the lack of spring pressure but unless you take it racing you should be alright i think.
.
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CUSS.
The thumb-wheel adjustment on the hydraulic clutch lever does not provide enough comfort that you seek Jeeves?
Also, and if not done already, try adding an RLET to the end of the lever to power assist the pull? Note: If you succeed in doing this, the front brake lever will also require an RLET.
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Thanks, I have my lever dial set to 5 already, so as far down as it will go. My impression is that adjusts the position, but not the tension. I'm also looking to lower the tension a bit.
Given the tension problem, I'm not certain an RLET would help either. My issue is that the lever rests and pulls right in the pivot point of my first knuckle on my index finger, and is aggravating nerve damage I have there.
I HAVE loosened the whole master cylinder assembly, and moved it along the handlebar closer to the center of the bike. This has improved my natural resting position, but some tension relief would also be welcome...
(02-04-2020, 03:33 AM)max_imp Wrote: Jeeves that is what the 2017 cb1100 uses in it's clutch basket, it has 3 springs instead of six in the 2013 models.
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...332/clutch
So removing two or even three out of six sounds plausible to me just compare it with the 2013 below;
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...23b/clutch .
It has a different mechanical system to make up for the lack of spring pressure but unless you take it racing you should be alright i think.
.
Thanks Max, now I want to run to a dealer to see what the pull tension is on a 2017!
Glad to hear you think it plausible, will continue my research. I'm not a terribly hard rider, going on 63 this year, so my thrills are occasional cranks on the throttle to get a horsepower goosing, and some average riding thru central Texas hill country twisties!!
J
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Jeeves: Yes, position start is only adjusted, not the tension. In any case, you said it is still not enough for you.
RE RLET: That is the most kind negative response.
Hopefully some more ideas will ring in.
Does m_in_sc's response (Post #2 above) tickle your interest?
- - -
Another alternative which, unfortunately excludes the CB, is the Honda Gold Wing, NC750X and Africa Twin (and a few older models) that have the DCT-option. There is no clutch lever.
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So removing two or even three out of six sounds plausible to me just compare it with the 2013 below.
Gentlemen, I would not recommend removing springs because this would result in uneven pressure on the plates. However, there's a very good chance that you could replace all of the existing springs with springs that have a lower spring rate. You could check after-market availability, but if that didn't work you could research the sizes and spring rates of other Honda models. I'm sure if you look hard enough you will find something to work for you. Good luck!
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Compared to the 2013/2014 models, the 2017 model uses an assisted clutch design that lightens the lever pull almost 1/6th (16%) without reducing any clamping force on the clutch.
Removing 2 of the clutch springs on your 2013 model would reduce your clutch pull effort by 1/3, but also reduces the clamping force on your clutch the same amount. That's quite a bit, and your clutch will likely wear out quickly. You could put stiffer springs in for the remaining 4, or shim them up.
You could lengthen the lever, use a smaller diameter clutch master cylinder (14mm std), or relocate the lever pivot bolt. But they would all mean there would be an increase in the amount of lever travel. That may be a good solution if you have larger hands. And no loss of clutch clamping force.
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Judgement free zone. I gotten stuck is some pretty rough traffic situations before, and my left hand is always aching after an hour of non-stop clutch pulling. The lighter clutch of the 2017s is pretty appealing.