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2014 DLX Wheels on 2017 EX
#21
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?
Reply
#22
(04-04-2020, 02:34 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape? I work in the automotive industry for over 33 years, the #1 worldwide so that's why the comments came from.
I love Honda (all my 7+ bikes were HONDA, and never owned any other brands), I am not putting them down, it was just a casual observation. What I meant and will try to find the picture to support it, was the spokes nuts inside the rim were all chewed up during assembly at factory- may be the materials were too soft?
Using a dremmel I had to grind the chewed up metal materials down so that they will not cause a cut on the 3M tape.
BTW, to prove that I like HONDA over any other brands I can purchase Yamaha at a discount and never did.
Sorry I did not see your 2nd question, Yes, I did use marine type silicone one each spoke as a secondary back-up safety - just in case.
Reply
#23
(04-04-2020, 02:47 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 02:34 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape? I work in the automotive industry for over 33 years, the #1 worldwide so that's why the comments came from.
I love Honda (all my 7+ bikes were HONDA, and never owned any other brands), I am not putting them down, it was just a casual observation. What I meant and will try to find the picture to support it, was the spokes nuts inside the rim were all chewed up during assembly at factory- may be the materials were too soft?
Using a dremmel I had to grind the chewed up metal materials down so that they will not cause a cut on the 3M tape.
BTW, to prove that I like HONDA over any other brands I can purchase Yamaha at a discount and never did.
Sorry I did not see your 2nd question, Yes, I did use marine type silicone one each spoke as a secondary back-up safety - just in case.

Ah, I get it; see I wouldn't have noticed because I don't have that experience.

(04-04-2020, 02:47 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 02:34 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape? I work in the automotive industry for over 33 years, the #1 worldwide so that's why the comments came from.
I love Honda (all my 7+ bikes were HONDA, and never owned any other brands), I am not putting them down, it was just a casual observation. What I meant and will try to find the picture to support it, was the spokes nuts inside the rim were all chewed up during assembly at factory- may be the materials were too soft?
Using a dremmel I had to grind the chewed up metal materials down so that they will not cause a cut on the 3M tape.
BTW, to prove that I like HONDA over any other brands I can purchase Yamaha at a discount and never did.
Sorry I did not see your 2nd question, Yes, I did use marine type silicone one each spoke as a secondary back-up safety - just in case.

And now I understand specifically what was messed up and why it matters for the conversion. A very good thing for others to look for / keep in mind if they contemplate converting from tube to tubeless.

Thanks for the explanation.
Reply
#24
(04-04-2020, 03:12 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 02:47 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 02:34 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape? I work in the automotive industry for over 33 years, the #1 worldwide so that's why the comments came from.
I love Honda (all my 7+ bikes were HONDA, and never owned any other brands), I am not putting them down, it was just a casual observation. What I meant and will try to find the picture to support it, was the spokes nuts inside the rim were all chewed up during assembly at factory- may be the materials were too soft?
Using a dremmel I had to grind the chewed up metal materials down so that they will not cause a cut on the 3M tape.
BTW, to prove that I like HONDA over any other brands I can purchase Yamaha at a discount and never did.
Sorry I did not see your 2nd question, Yes, I did use marine type silicone one each spoke as a secondary back-up safety - just in case.

Ah, I get it; see I wouldn't have noticed because I don't have that experience.

(04-04-2020, 02:47 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 02:34 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape? I work in the automotive industry for over 33 years, the #1 worldwide so that's why the comments came from.
I love Honda (all my 7+ bikes were HONDA, and never owned any other brands), I am not putting them down, it was just a casual observation. What I meant and will try to find the picture to support it, was the spokes nuts inside the rim were all chewed up during assembly at factory- may be the materials were too soft?
Using a dremmel I had to grind the chewed up metal materials down so that they will not cause a cut on the 3M tape.
BTW, to prove that I like HONDA over any other brands I can purchase Yamaha at a discount and never did.
Sorry I did not see your 2nd question, Yes, I did use marine type silicone one each spoke as a secondary back-up safety - just in case.

And now I understand specifically what was messed up and why it matters for the conversion. A very good thing for others to look for / keep in mind if they contemplate converting from tube to tubeless.

Thanks for the explanation.

Ah, I get it; see I wouldn't have noticed because I don't have that experience.

(04-04-2020, 02:47 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 02:34 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote:
(04-04-2020, 01:35 AM)Alain Lee_imp Wrote:
(04-03-2020, 09:06 PM)Stichill_imp Wrote: So, Alain: you sealed your rims and installed tubeless tires?

Yes, I used the "OUTEX" kit from Japan. Their 3M tapes were cut -out with the correct/proper width & length for each rim. As previously mentioned, I took a leap of faith and did the conversion when it was time to replace the tires. They were replaced with tubeless type "Bridgestone".
Because of the unknown I regularly monitor the pressure and kept a log of pressure drop over time. I expected to loose 1 or 2 Psi/month, however, the result were better than expected over the 9 months test period.
One of my big surprise was the inside finish of the rim/spokes, it was not of the expected HONDA quality, may be HONDA thinks that the customer will never see the inside of the rims, they lower their finish to reduce cost. I will post some of the modification pictures taken.
Would I do it again? You bet anytime!

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape?

Asking out of curiosity or perhaps ignorance (meaning, not trying to be difficult): why would the finish on the inside of a rim matter? It's nearly literally never going to see the light of day, and will have very little contact with moisture / air as the rims were designed in mind with rim-strips and tubes. Bear in mind I'm wondering aloud here not as one who typically defends the Honda brand.

Oh, forgot to ask: did the OUTEX kit also come with a sealant besides the tape, or just the tape? I work in the automotive industry for over 33 years, the #1 worldwide so that's why the comments came from.
I love Honda (all my 7+ bikes were HONDA, and never owned any other brands), I am not putting them down, it was just a casual observation. What I meant and will try to find the picture to support it, was the spokes nuts inside the rim were all chewed up during assembly at factory- may be the materials were too soft?
Using a dremmel I had to grind the chewed up metal materials down so that they will not cause a cut on the 3M tape.
BTW, to prove that I like HONDA over any other brands I can purchase Yamaha at a discount and never did.
Sorry I did not see your 2nd question, Yes, I did use marine type silicone one each spoke as a secondary back-up safety - just in case.

And now I understand specifically what was messed up and why it matters for the conversion. A very good thing for others to look for / keep in mind if they contemplate converting from tube to tubeless.


Here's a picture of the inside of the rim. If one look closer at the lowest spoke nut , the burrs can be easily seen.
Reply
#25
This could also cause more rust over time and weaken the spokes , moisture will find it's way into the rims. Unless EVERYTHING is stainless steel.
Reply
#26
(04-04-2020, 06:12 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: This could also cause more rust over time and weaken the spokes , moisture will find it's way into the rims. Unless EVERYTHING is stainless steel.

On mine, after grinding and filing the burrs, I sealed the spoke/nuts area with marine type silicone so that water or any foreign matter cannot get inside or air leaked outside.
However, for spoke tightening if required, it will take more time to perform the job.
It was already partially rusty under the rim-belt, I guess water found its way in when I washed the bike. My bike is a 2017 model year.
Note: the conversion is worthwhile and I do not have any regret.
Now that we have plenty of time, I will write in detail the whole conversion process and post it.
Reply
#27
Alain, the topic might deserve its own thread.
Reply
#28
While we've revived this topic, and maybe more on-topic, I'm very curious to know if anyone's done the swap from a '14 to '17 type wheels yet (or vice-versa). I really want to put my '14 gold wheels on my '17 but the number of parts needed (I think it's mostly the rotors that are most expensive) are scary! Of course if there were anyone in southern CA who wanted to trade parts that would just be ideal. I've even been scouring copart and craigslist for a cheap/crashed '14 to take the parts off of.
Reply
#29
(04-16-2020, 04:48 PM)iamheero_imp Wrote: While we've revived this topic, and maybe more on-topic, I'm very curious to know if anyone's done the swap from a '14 to '17 type wheels yet (or vice-versa). I really want to put my '14 gold wheels on my '17 but the number of parts needed (I think it's mostly the rotors that are most expensive) are scary! Of course if there were anyone in southern CA who wanted to trade parts that would just be ideal. I've even been scouring copart and craigslist for a cheap/crashed '14 to take the parts off of.

I had considered your Magtan wheels for my 2017 and did a little research, but instead purchased a set of 2014 DLX wheels from a forum member. I have not installed them yet, will likely be a month or so before I do. Since you had the Magtans on your 2014 Standard, you know the front will, with the right discs, just bolt in.

There may be one problem. As your 2017 is an ABS model, it will need to have a front pulser ring, which bolts behind the right side brake disc. The 2013 ABS and Standard models have a different part number for their front wheels, likely due to the thickness of the pulser ring (2.0 mm thick) pushing the disc outward 2.0 mm. The 5 rotor bolt bosses may have been machined down 2.0mm so that the brake disc rotor will sit in the exact center of the caliper.

If this is so, you have some options. You could machine the right side disc bosses 2.0 mm, take 2.0 mm off the right caliper's mounting bosses, or 2.0 mm off the caliper mounts on the fork slider. Or assemble it like it is and let brake pads/pistons compensate 2.0 mm within the caliper. There should be enough disc rotor-to-caliper body clearance. You would have to space the front speed sensor pickup outwards 2.0 mm though, and check the air gap between the sensor and sensor ring.

At the rear, the axle diameters are the same. You will need a disc rotor and pulser ring. I assume you have the sprocket and cush-drive from your 2014. The rear caliper brackets are different, although the caliper is the same. I am not sure the rear caliper bracket needs to be changed yet. The stock 2017 brake hose is a little longer, but I haven't tried it yet and will look at re-routing it if needed rather than replacing it.

Rear sprockets will interchange. I can't be sure which rear wheel spacers are correct until I actually swap them. I will report when I have done the swap.

As far as parts prices, there currently is on eBay for $360, a set of 3 rotors and a rear pulser ring WITH the disc mounting hardware (that hardware alone is about $180 new).
Reply
#30
I did look at putting 2014 DLX wheels on my 2017 but it is far too expensive. I was hoping that a Japanese after market company would come out with an alloy wheel for the 2017 to fit right in but so far I have not seen any.
Reply


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