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Electrical Output?
#11
Woo yea, thats cold enough for heated gear. Is that normal? I though Alabama was a hot southern state lol
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#12
(12-03-2013, 12:36 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Ken, you are in Alabama aren't you? How much electric gear you need? Does it even get below 60 down there? Lol

Good point. About Alabama that is... I was still wearing my summer jacket yet and didn't break out the leather jacket until it was in the 50's. But everyone does have their own comfort level...


Couldn't the bike be modded to use an automotive alternator to run auxiliary items? I have seen some older bikes nodded that way. :-D

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4.2.5 - non pro version.
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#13
Yeah those temps are normal for us. Last week highs were in 60's with lows in the 30's. This week highs will be in the mid 70;s and lows in the 50's. Temp changes radically, one day freezing weather , two days later your wearing shorts. Ive been camping at the beach over the holidays in december, swimming and getting sunburned during the winter.
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#14
(12-03-2013, 11:26 AM)kenfyoozed_imp Wrote: Well just received this from Scott at the Powerlet company....


A few things to note, all of the math you're doing is based on 12 volts.
While it is a '12 volt system', 12v voltage regulators are designed to work
at 14.2-14.4 volts, and motorcycle batteries at rest are generally near 13
volts, and shoot up to between 13.3 and 13.8 volts while charging. So the
math of calculating watt/amp usage of electronics must be based on at least
13 if not 13.8 volts (these are the voltages we use in bench testing our
products). So when hooking up your outlets, devices, or garments directly
to the battery the amp usage is calculated off whatever the voltage of the
source is, which is the battery, and battery voltage is generally 13-13.8v.
Another thing to note is that while you are using your heated clothing at
50% power, the controller does not regulate temperature by regulating the
amperage at a solid number. It sends full amperage through the garment but
it blips the power in a wave pattern to control the temperature. So even at
the lowest setting with the jacket and gloves on, it is still blipping the
full 140-150 watts, but only for a fraction of the time it does on higher
settings.

Also, the stated 336 watt output for your stator is the 'peak' output,
which is probably in the area of 4000-5000rpms. So at idle and city riding
it is substantially less than that. So even at peak output while riding,
the bike is putting out 336 watts, but that's at 14.4 volts via the
regulator, not 12, so doing the math total output is 24 amps, not 28. Take
away the 17 amps they say the bike uses and that only leaves you with 7
amps. However you do get to raise the voltage calculation of that 7 amps to
the 13.5 volts that the battery operates at. This gives you about 90 watts
of excess.

However, if Honda is doing their math properly using 13.5 volts from the
battery and they say you still have 11 amps to use, that means that the
bike does not use 17 amps to power itself, but 13. However I find it very
difficult to believe that the CB1100 can power itself using only 150 watts
of power as most carburated bikes use around 185, and a common operating
load for a fuel injected bike is substantially higher at around 250-285
watts.

All I can say is use extreme discretion when using heated clothing with
your bike before you free up some excess electrical capacity. If you have
any other questions please let me know.



Seems I'm back at square one........ and that is , that i will need to dial back on my nice toasty gear until i cut back some power from other areas.

Anyone know if its even possible to get a higher output stator?

Ken,

I'm on the ST1300 site and will try to look up more info. I know the St1100 puts out 28amps same as our bikes, guys have bumped them up to 40 amp with after market equipment.
Edit: Just looked at the St site, the St1300 puts out 740 watts and running usage is about 450 leaving about 300 watts free
Its gets involved to upgrade the alternator on the St1100 as i would presume it would for our bikes.
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#15
Ill try to free up some power from all the lights. Front running lights pull roughly 14 watts combined. Front turn signals pull roughly 27watts, as do the rear. Rear brake should be roughly 7 and 27 for run and brake. Switching to low draw leds for the running lights should save at least 12-14 watts, close to one amp. Not sure if its worth the touble, but I plan to change lights anyway so why not...

CIP57, got a link for that ST alternator swap? I doubt it would be the same for the CB but i wouldnt mind reading up on it anyway....
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#16
(12-04-2013, 01:21 AM)kenfyoozed_imp Wrote: Ill try to free up some power from all the lights. Front running lights pull roughly 14 watts combined. Front turn signals pull roughly 27watts, as do the rear. Rear brake should be roughly 7 and 27 for run and brake. Switching to low draw leds for the running lights should save at least 12-14 watts, close to one amp. Not sure if its worth the touble, but I plan to change lights anyway so why not...

CIP57, got a link for that ST alternator swap? I doubt it would be the same for the CB but i wouldnt mind reading up on it anyway....

Ken,
Read through these posts. Should give you an idea of whats involved. Not sure if you need to be a member but give it a try.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/forumdis...Alternator
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#17
Thanks, Looked over a few and it seems they are pulling a higher ouput stator from a newer model. Maybe the '14 will have a higher output? Doubt it but i'm off to go check....if thats even possible....
seems the EX puts out the same power...........back to square one
ppossible stator rewind?
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#18
(12-04-2013, 10:12 AM)kenfyoozed_imp Wrote: Thanks, Looked over a few and it seems they are pulling a higher ouput stator from a newer model. Maybe the '14 will have a higher output? Doubt it but i'm off to go check....if thats even possible....
seems the EX puts out the same power...........back to square one
ppossible stator rewind?

kenfyoozed, I notice that you also posted regarding a HID conversion kit; my understanding is that HID draws more power than stock H4 and much more than aftermarket LED for the same lumens. You might be able to run more heated gear by incorporating efficiency in your lighting choices.

I'm also looking into electrical power capacity on the CB1100 and if I find objective information I'll pass it on to you.
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#19
Any help would be appreciated. Yes i think switching to LED headlight, and LED for all the other lights as well should free up at least a few amps.

If I can remember I may call a company in Birmingham, AL who rewinds stators. They suposedly have been able to squeeze more power out of stock stators. Not sure if its worth it. There was a thread I read somewhere, some other forum that it also created more heat, which I dont think would be good for our engines.
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#20
I wonder how many amps the heated grips draw on the system? I do not have the heated grips and wanted to get glove liners and vest. Been looking at Venture 12V heated gear, anybody else using Venture gear?
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