Some valve adjustment tips and tricks.

[LongRanger_imp]

The dealer charges a couple hundred bucks. If I were to attempt this work myself, I’d be anxious that I messed something up, even if I didn’t, and would second-guess my measurements and adjustments until the next inspection interval. When the shop does it (or doesn’t), I can remain blissfully ignorant of what’s going on inside there.

[TXBikerGuy]

The dealer charges a couple hundred bucks. If I were to attempt this work myself, I’d be anxious that I messed something up, even if I didn’t, and would second-guess my measurements and adjustments until the next inspection interval. When the shop does it (or doesn’t), I can remain blissfully ignorant of what’s going on inside there.

Right there with you. I'm good taking a lot of things apart on the bike--especially to route wiring, etc. But I've always considered the engine to be a hermetically sealed magic place that I can't go. At least a 50/50 chance I'll do something that will turn me into that guy who shows up at the dealer with his bike on a trailer saying "I tried doing this myself...but..."

[DAC]

Now you’ve got me worried about the dowel o rings. I did my valve check a few years ago and don’t remember them ever coming off. It’s altogether possible that I handled this at the time but don’t remember. What is the ramification of one of these coming off?

[LakeWylieJoe_imp]

Now you’ve got me worried about the dowel o rings. I did my valve check a few years ago and don’t remember them ever coming off. It’s altogether possible that I handled this at the time but don’t remember. What is the ramification of one of these coming off?

If you look at valve cover portion that is just forward of the spark plugs, each side (left and right side of the bike) has two dowels that are close together. You should be able to see if the o-ring is in there, or at least if all four dowels look the same.

If the o-ring lands in the right place, it will just be along for the ride and you'll find it next time you take the cover off. It could end up getting ground up by moving parts, or falling down an oil return passage. Neither would be fatal damage, but it's not supposed to be there. I'd see if you can account for all four without taking anything apart. If you think one has gone astray, be sure to look around the spark plug bases closely, too. Several little moisture drain holes there that could catch one if it fell outside the engine.

[Gone in 60]

Oh man, reading all of this has me thinking "It's a Honda, it will run forever, don't worry about it."

I've done valve checks on all of the bikes I've owned over the years (except the Nighthawk 750, of course), and this one just seems... complicated.

Interesting about lack of availability of shims at local dealers. When I did the adjustment on my Bonneville last year, which uses the same 10mm disks that are common to Honda, none of the Triumph or Honda dealers in the area had shims available when I called around. That was very curious.

Oh for the days of a BMW Hex Head. Both jugs hanging out in the breeze with screw adjusters. Took 45 minutes for both cylinders if I took a coffee break during the process.

[LakeWylieJoe_imp]

Every time I think the CB1100 maintenance is a pain, I recall the days of doing the VFR800 with VTEC. That blasted thing had two heads, and four cams. All the cams had to come out and the eight VTEC buckets needed small tool inserted in each to activate those valves before putting the cams back in and then beginning the measurements. GAWD! Then the cams had to come out again to make shim changes... Just awful.

Thankfully the interval was 16,000mi and the cam sprockets could remain on.

[pekingduck]

Every time I think the CB1100 maintenance is a pain, I recall the days of doing the VFR800 with VTEC. That blasted thing had two heads, and four cams. All the cams had to come out and the eight VTEC buckets needed small tool inserted in each to activate those valves before putting the cams back in and then beginning the measurements. GAWD! Then the cams had to come out again to make shim changes... Just awful.

Thankfully the interval was 16,000mi and the cam sprockets could remain on.

I used to notice that there were a lot of VFR800s that got sold at about 30k miles to avoid the second service. Probably the same on old 4-valve Ducatis.

[dave]

Great write-up - thanks!

I agree 100% about the Honda service manual jumping you all over the place! I actually made myself notes on a sheet of paper that outlined the steps, and the corresponding pages of the manual.

I still don't understand why Honda suggests releasing the cam chain tension before checking the valves - I did not do this.
The non V-Tech VFR800 engines are much easier to work on, actually much easier than the CB1100. My 1998 has gear-driven cams, so there is no need to remove a cam chain or sprockets. I actually did not have to make a valve adjustment until 56,000 miles, and this was the third time I had performed an inspection.
Now you’ve got me worried about the dowel o rings. [/quote]

The O-rings on my bike were securely stuck to the cylinder. I actually had purchased new ones thinking I would replace the original, but they all looked really good so I left them in.

[Ben70_imp]

Nice tips, Joe! Should save headaches for DIYers. You are correct, one more link would have made it much easier.

Ben

[Lord Popgun]

I’m going to attempt the valve check/adjustment as a winter job so I’m going to print out this thread and put it in my manual. Thanks for all the tips guys!!

Can someone suggest a source for a shim kit? Does the dealer sell shim kits?