07-24-2020, 07:07 AM
(07-24-2020, 06:49 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: I agree with Max.
There's no schematic to the internals of the stock LED headlight controller, and that headlight retails for more than $1000, so use caution. It looks to me like the black/red wire is the high beam power wire, hot all the time, and the circuit is activated by grounding the blue/white through the high/low switch.
If you're unsure of the wiring, another way around it is to use a common automotive relay used for auxiliary horns and lights. It's a good idea anyway since the Darlas draw 4 amps, and it would have it's own fused circuit, and not be taxing the LED circuit. This is the way I'd go, so it would be activated by either high beam or passing button.
Thanks, PD. The Darla's actually come with a relay that plays a role in the control knob and probably make it safe to tap into the blue/white wire. But, for all the reasons you and Max have highlighted--capped off with the nearly $1000 cost of a new headlight, I am just skipping the high-beam trigger wire altogether. I've reprogrammed the controller so I can get 100% brightness without the wiring risk (thanks to tech support at Clearwater for that tip).
I ride with my brights on 100% of the time during daylight hours anyway, so just dialing up the controller to the MAX setting accomplishes what I want. I only turn down the Darla's at night if there is steady oncoming traffic. My goal is to throw as much possible light toward people who have the ability to harm me by turning left!
Appreciate the quick and helpful replies. Love this forum.