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High idle
#1
So my check engine light came on, the bike went into limp mode. I have a O2 sensor eliminator on it. I checked it out and it had come loose. Fired up the bike and engine light went off. All good, right? No. Now my idle is hovering at around 12-13 hundred. I've already reset the ECU but still have a high idle. Does anyone have a solution?

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#2
MMC i would wait and see if the situation clears by itself, and good you found the eliminator was disconnected.

If it does not reset itself you can try to clear the faultcode which is stored inside the ecu's memory;





https://www.youtube.com/results?search_q...faultcodes

And a description of some code indicators copied from one of my docs on cb1100 files.

Actual system codes are more involved than just a one or two digit code. For example, code '8' indicates a throttle position sensor (TPS) problem but code "8-1" and "8-2" provide more information as to what's wrong with the TPS. These more complex codes can be read by specialized equipment (e.g. an MCS scanner).

When all codes have been observed (i.e. the sequence has repeated a couple of times) and you've noted all the code(s) present, turn off the ignition.

You can now remove the jumper, replace the cover cap on the DLC and re-install the seats.

PCM codes and their meaning
PCM DTCs:

1 - manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor (1-1=low voltage, 1-2=high voltage)
7 - engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor (7-1=low voltage, 7-2=high voltage)
8 - throttle position (TP) sensor (8-1=low voltage, 8-2=high voltage)
9 - intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (9-1=low voltage, 9-2=high voltage)
11 - vehicle speed (VS) sensor (11-1=VS malfunction, intermittent connection etc)
12 - #1 (left) fuel injector (12-1=FI malfunction, intermittent connection etc)
13 - #2 (right) fuel injector (13-1=FI malfunction, intermittent connection etc)
21 - oxygen (O2) sensor (21-1=O2S malfunction, intermittent connection etc)
23 - oxygen (O2) heater (23-1=O2 heater malfunction, intermittent connection etc)
29 - IACV (idle air control valve (29-1=IACV malfunction, intermittent connection etc)
54 - BA (bank angle) sensor (54-1=low voltage, 54-2=high voltage)
86 - serial communications (PCM to cluster) (86-1=communications error, bad power to cluster)

Not saying this will stop the uptick of the rev's but worth a try.
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#3
Thanks, max. The idle has gone down a couple times but it goes back up. I'll give it some time but...... It's annoying.

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#4
My high idle was 2,000rpm. When I re-set the ECU, at first it went down to 1100, but after a few runs, it went to around 1500, but would often idle at somewhere between 1100 and 1500, closer to 1100.
When I replaced the ECU, it settled down nicely and now is consistent at 1100 and just generally sounds much better.
Best of luck to you, MMC.
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#5
Update:
I did two things, I added 3 ounces of Seafoam to a full tank and I cleaned out the air filter (I didn't have a new one so I blew it out with air). It was dirty but not too bad. Since then the idle has been normal. New air filter on the way now. So far, so good. [Image: b0d94121f2736d0d77dacdd090535e6d.png]

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#6
good news fingers crossed for continued normalcy
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#7
(10-29-2022, 03:34 AM)MMC_imp Wrote: Update:
I did two things, I added 3 ounces of Seafoam to a full tank and I cleaned out the air filter (I didn't have a new one so I blew it out with air). It was dirty but not too bad. Since then the idle has been normal. New air filter on the way now. So far, so good. [Image: b0d94121f2736d0d77dacdd090535e6d.png]

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Yeah, hopefully the ride pleasure busting symptom will be beat down.
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#8
Congratulations! Keep us posted on your success.
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