(07-24-2020, 06:05 AM)max_imp Wrote: Yup, switched to ground.
If you look at the headlight diagram there is a blue/white wire labelled " dimmer" which connects to the high/low beam and "passing switch" on the handlebars .
It appears the actual switches are capable of handling 5 ampere loads but since it looks that they control an electronic driver care should be used to not damage the controller( inside the electronic headlight ) with let say a relay induction voltage spike present when the switch opens like an ignition coil principle.

EDIT

Looking at their website it appears the on/off switching is done with a relay, what needs to be done is change the wiring at the relay so the coil is supplied from the red battery wire instead of the black ones.

To be safe there needs to be a 2 amp diode ( 1N4007 ) in anti-parallel with the coil so that the diode does not conduct when the 12 volts is applied but suppresses any reverse voltage spike in excess of 0,7 volts.
in other words the ring marking on the diode connects to the positive 12 v ( red ) supply wire and the other lead connects to the switched coil wire which is connected to the blue/white wire from the headlight.

(07-24-2020, 06:49 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: I agree with Max.

There's no schematic to the internals of the stock LED headlight controller, and that headlight retails for more than $1000, so use caution. It looks to me like the black/red wire is the high beam power wire, hot all the time, and the circuit is activated by grounding the blue/white through the high/low switch.





If you're unsure of the wiring, another way around it is to use a common automotive relay used for auxiliary horns and lights. It's a good idea anyway since the Darlas draw 4 amps, and it would have it's own fused circuit, and not be taxing the LED circuit. This is the way I'd go, so it would be activated by either high beam or passing button.