07-24-2020, 06:20 AM
(07-24-2020, 06:05 AM)max_imp Wrote: Yup, switched to ground.
If you look at the headlight diagram there is a blue/white wire labelled " dimmer" which connects to the high/low beam and "passing switch" on the handlebars .
It appears the actual switches are capable of handling 5 ampere loads but since it looks that they control an electronic driver care should be used to not damage the controller( inside the electronic headlight ) with let say a relay induction voltage spike present when the switch opens like an ignition coil principle.
EDIT
Looking at their website it appears the on/off switching is done with a relay, what needs to be done is change the wiring at the relay so the coil is supplied from the red battery wire instead of the black ones.
To be safe there needs to be a 2 amp diode ( 1N4007 ) in anti-parallel with the coil so that the diode does not conduct when the 12 volts is applied but suppresses any reverse voltage spike in excess of 0,7 volts.
in other words the ring marking on the diode connects to the positive 12 v ( red ) supply wire and the other lead connects to the switched coil wire which is connected to the blue/white wire from the headlight.
Thanks for the confirmation on the switched to ground deal. I found out how to program the Darla's so that I can get to 100% brightness without having them tied to the high-beam so I think I'm just going to go with that. Don't want to risk messing something else up by tapping the trigger wire into it.