02-22-2021, 09:54 AM
(02-21-2021, 05:46 PM)Tev62_imp Wrote:(02-20-2021, 05:17 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: The problem with bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is that, compared to a hydraulic brake, there is no real resistance when you pull the lever in.
The clutch slave cylinder is bolted to the left side of the engine, pushes a pushrod through to the clutch on the right side, like most Japanese hydraulic clutches. The slave cylinder can be unbolted at the 3 bolts, and there will be no leakage. If there is an external leak at the slave cylinder, it will not contaminate the engine oil - it will leak into the countershaft cover area.
When bleeding the system, I unbolt the clutch slave cylinder, and use a heavy duty c-clamp or a small vise to provide the resistance needed for bleeding it. That way you can develop that firm lever pressure. If you bleed it this way, and the lever is still mushy, the master cylinder may be leaking internally.
I don't get what you are saying here. Are you suggesting when bleeding the clutch you are operating the slave cylinder, pushing the rod and overcoming the clutch springs rather than the fluid coming out of the open bleed valve? The clutch springs are the resistance, they would not move in the slightest with an open bleed nipple while pumping the lever. Or have I misunderstood what you are trying to do with something on the master cylinder?
I don't get what you are saying here. Are you suggesting when bleeding the clutch you are operating the slave cylinder, pushing the rod and overcoming the clutch springs rather than the fluid coming out of the open bleed valve? The clutch springs are the resistance, they would not move in the slightest with an open bleed nipple while pumping the lever. Or have I misunderstood what you are trying to do with something on the master cylinder?
In some cases, if there is too much air in the system, such as when changing the hose, or replacing either master cylinder or slave cylinder, you can pump all day and not have solid pressure.