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Replacing Wheels - Manual Instructions Ludicrous
#6
When replacing bearings heat the cases/hubs and use a long skinny punch and slowly work it out. Put the new bearings in the freezer and then reheat the pocket. They will drop right in.

(12-07-2021, 08:15 AM)jasonsargonautalis_imp Wrote: Okay so the [url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=17547]bent wheels on my 2013 are finally about to hit the road to get bent back into shape. I've been waiting for a headlift stand to arrive and I'm looking at the manual ahead of time to check install/uninstall instructions.

Am I losing my mind? Honda asks for an insane amount of parts to be "new" on re-installation. The info for the front wheel on page 12-18 appears to be appears to be:
Quote:Front Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts (4)
Right dust seal (1)
Left dust seal (1)
Right wheel bearing (1)
Left wheel bearing (1)
Brake disk bolt (10)
Brake disk washer (10)
Brake disk spring (10)
Brake disk collar (10)
For the rear wheel on page 13-12:

Quote:Rear pulser ring bolts (3)
Rear brake disc bolts (5)
Right dust seal (1)
Right wheel bearing (1)
Left wheel bearings (2)
O Ring (1)
This seems wildly overzealous to me on Honda's part but I don't claim to be a mechanic. I know some parts undergo deformation as a part of proper seating but the torque values on this are rather low (the driven flange bolts, which I'm not uninstalling, being the highest in the 108 N.m/80lb range). I've mostly owned older bikes with manuals that don't call for much part replacement outside of gaskets - so I don't know what to think.

I want to remain safe but I need a realistic assessment on what I actually need to replace. I don't have the money for all of this right now and I'm going to need the bike to get to work soon. Can anyone with experience in this give me some guidance?

For the rear wheel on page 13-12:

Quote:Rear pulser ring bolts (3)
Rear brake disc bolts (5)
Right dust seal (1)
Right wheel bearing (1)
Left wheel bearings (2)
O Ring (1)
This seems wildly overzealous to me on Honda's part but I don't claim to be a mechanic. I know some parts undergo deformation as a part of proper seating but the torque values on this are rather low (the driven flange bolts, which I'm not uninstalling, being the highest in the 108 N.m/80lb range). I've mostly owned older bikes with manuals that don't call for much part replacement outside of gaskets - so I don't know what to think.

I want to remain safe but I need a realistic assessment on what I actually need to replace. I don't have the money for all of this right now and I'm going to need the bike to get to work soon. Can anyone with experience in this give me some guidance?
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Messages In This Thread
RE: Replacing Wheels - Manual Instructions Ludicrous - by DBM_imp - 12-07-2021, 09:05 PM

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