Clutch replacement advice

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Thanks j3gq.

As a second option you could do a test to see if the clutch travel is sufficient ( normal ) by standing still sitting on the bike with the engine running in gear and checking the " free play " of the clutch lever.
Mine has a 20mm travel from fully pulled in to starting to slightly engaging the engine;



Here is what it looks like when it starts to engage the engine 20 mm out from the full pull, during those 20 mm there is no engagement with the engine, nothing happens until the 20mm point has been reached and the clutch starts to engage according to the lever pull.

If your lever has less or no clearance the chances are that there is air in the clutch system which takes up lever travel until the air compresses and the slave piston starts exerting pressure to dis-engage the clutch plates sufficiently.
remember that part of the clutch system lines are higher than the bleed nipples and can hold trapped air in those parts of the line.
To get rid of this air you have to flush the lines quickly, quicker than the air can flow back to the high places and remain trapped while clear fluid seems to indicate all is fine this will probably need a vacuum approach to move the fluid/air quickly through the lines.

So when the oil filler plug is removed and you feel the moving ( inside ) part of the clutch plates you should instantly feel them move out when the lever is pulled.

Hope this helps to narrow down what the getting back into neutral issue is Cormanus.