03-17-2024, 04:40 PM
Considering all the other good advice we just checked my cb1100 80.000 km.
Rear wheel drag with clutch lever fully engaged to the handlebars and on centerstand; engine cold, difficult to rotate in first gear but gets better when it starts to move.
cb1000r in same situation; considerable easier to rotate.
cb550k much more difficult to rotate rear wheel.
Did notice the cb1100 gets a bit more difficult to get in neutral at traffic lights than before similar to cormanus.
Cb550k is almost impossible to get in neutral except when engine is cold????
cb1000r always gets in neutral any time without any effort.
cb1100 cold engine in first gear; bike starts to engage with thumb with from fully pulled in.
Looking at Pekingduck's picture i think he's on to it, the lower clutch plates in the "basket" move the least and the ones on top move the most distance so as to allow space for the lower ones to release contact, just my unqualified idea.
Could do a "basic tools required" clutch fluid replace video on youtube if that helps Cormanus.
Rear wheel drag with clutch lever fully engaged to the handlebars and on centerstand; engine cold, difficult to rotate in first gear but gets better when it starts to move.
cb1000r in same situation; considerable easier to rotate.
cb550k much more difficult to rotate rear wheel.
Did notice the cb1100 gets a bit more difficult to get in neutral at traffic lights than before similar to cormanus.
Cb550k is almost impossible to get in neutral except when engine is cold????
cb1000r always gets in neutral any time without any effort.
cb1100 cold engine in first gear; bike starts to engage with thumb with from fully pulled in.
Looking at Pekingduck's picture i think he's on to it, the lower clutch plates in the "basket" move the least and the ones on top move the most distance so as to allow space for the lower ones to release contact, just my unqualified idea.
Could do a "basic tools required" clutch fluid replace video on youtube if that helps Cormanus.