12-31-2014, 11:37 AM
We had some unseasonal and beautiful weather in northern VA this past weekend. I decided to get the bike out Sunday and ride. I noticed the clutch fluid appeared a bit discolored in the sight glass. It has been about 1.5 years since the bike was new so I decided to open the service manual and perform a clutch fluid change. Actually, very easy with the right tools.
Tools needed are one man bleeder (Mityvac), 10mm box wrench for bleeder screw for slave cylinder, hex wrench to remove left side plastic crank case cover, and small philips screw driver to remove clutch master cylinder reservoir cover.
Fluid - DOT 4 brake fluid. I used MOTUL 600 DOT4.
Start by setting the bike on a level surface and putting it on the center stand. Turn the handle bars slightly to the right or until the clutch master cylinder top is level.
Remove 10mm bolt holding holding the gear shift linkage on the left side of the bike. You will need to fully remove the bolt in order for the linkage to slide off the input shaft. Note the orientation of the shift linkage and the alignment dots on the linkage and end of the input shaft. Line these dots up when the linkage is reinstalled.
Remove the three hex head bolts securing the plastic crank case cover (left side of bike). Upon removal you should see the black clutch slave cylinder with the bleed nipple with rubber cover at the top. . Remove the rubber bleed nipple cover to allow access to the bleed nipple and bleeder screw.
Place a protective towel or sheet over the gas tank and front fender to prevent any errant cutch fluid from getting on painted surfaces. Clutch fluid is highly corrosive and will remove or stain paint if not removed immediately. Take extra precautions here. At the handlebars, remove the two philips screws securing the clutch master cylinder (left side) cover and rubber seal. Remove the cover and place in a safe place. Next, take your hand held bleeder and vacuum out all the fluid in the brake master. Do not pump the clutch handle as this may allow air to enter the system. Simply remove the contaminated fluid and refill the reservoir to the inner max level line with fresh DOT4 brake fluid.
Next, place a 10mm box wrench on the slave cylinder bleeder screw and attach your brake bleed tool hose to the slave cylinder bleed nipple. Using the bleed tool, draw a vacuum on the bleeder valve and then crack open the bleeder screw with the 10mm wrench. Watch the vacuum gauge drawn down as dirty fluid exits the bleed nipple. Tighten the bleed screw when the vacuum gauge approaches zero. Repeat this process until the fluid exiting the bleed nipple appears clear. It is okay if you see a few bubbles in the fluid that is exiting. I have learned over the years that you rarely get a solid stream of fluid. Most likely some air will come into the fluid exiting the bleed nipple from around the bleeder screw threads. This is okay as the bleeder is at the top of the slave cylinder so unlikely air is actually in the system. Be careful not to let the brake master empty completely of fluid or you will draw air into the system. I performed the bleed procedure and opened the bleed valve 4 -5 times under vacuum before the fluid was clear to my satisfaction. Tighten the bleeder valve screw for the last time, remove the hand held bleeder hose, and replace the rubber nipple cover.
Top the master cylinder up to the inner max level line and replace the cover and secure with two philips retaining screws.
Replace the crank case cover and shift linkage and you are done. You should have a firm and responsive clutch lever. Test ride the bike. Hope this helps everybody.
Tools needed are one man bleeder (Mityvac), 10mm box wrench for bleeder screw for slave cylinder, hex wrench to remove left side plastic crank case cover, and small philips screw driver to remove clutch master cylinder reservoir cover.
Fluid - DOT 4 brake fluid. I used MOTUL 600 DOT4.
Start by setting the bike on a level surface and putting it on the center stand. Turn the handle bars slightly to the right or until the clutch master cylinder top is level.
Remove 10mm bolt holding holding the gear shift linkage on the left side of the bike. You will need to fully remove the bolt in order for the linkage to slide off the input shaft. Note the orientation of the shift linkage and the alignment dots on the linkage and end of the input shaft. Line these dots up when the linkage is reinstalled.
Remove the three hex head bolts securing the plastic crank case cover (left side of bike). Upon removal you should see the black clutch slave cylinder with the bleed nipple with rubber cover at the top. . Remove the rubber bleed nipple cover to allow access to the bleed nipple and bleeder screw.
Place a protective towel or sheet over the gas tank and front fender to prevent any errant cutch fluid from getting on painted surfaces. Clutch fluid is highly corrosive and will remove or stain paint if not removed immediately. Take extra precautions here. At the handlebars, remove the two philips screws securing the clutch master cylinder (left side) cover and rubber seal. Remove the cover and place in a safe place. Next, take your hand held bleeder and vacuum out all the fluid in the brake master. Do not pump the clutch handle as this may allow air to enter the system. Simply remove the contaminated fluid and refill the reservoir to the inner max level line with fresh DOT4 brake fluid.
Next, place a 10mm box wrench on the slave cylinder bleeder screw and attach your brake bleed tool hose to the slave cylinder bleed nipple. Using the bleed tool, draw a vacuum on the bleeder valve and then crack open the bleeder screw with the 10mm wrench. Watch the vacuum gauge drawn down as dirty fluid exits the bleed nipple. Tighten the bleed screw when the vacuum gauge approaches zero. Repeat this process until the fluid exiting the bleed nipple appears clear. It is okay if you see a few bubbles in the fluid that is exiting. I have learned over the years that you rarely get a solid stream of fluid. Most likely some air will come into the fluid exiting the bleed nipple from around the bleeder screw threads. This is okay as the bleeder is at the top of the slave cylinder so unlikely air is actually in the system. Be careful not to let the brake master empty completely of fluid or you will draw air into the system. I performed the bleed procedure and opened the bleed valve 4 -5 times under vacuum before the fluid was clear to my satisfaction. Tighten the bleeder valve screw for the last time, remove the hand held bleeder hose, and replace the rubber nipple cover.
Top the master cylinder up to the inner max level line and replace the cover and secure with two philips retaining screws.
Replace the crank case cover and shift linkage and you are done. You should have a firm and responsive clutch lever. Test ride the bike. Hope this helps everybody.