06-26-2017, 07:41 AM
My front brake lever has a fair bit of movement before the brake starts to take up and I'm wondering what I need to do to shorten it a little. There's plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir.
Am I going to have to learn how to bleed the brake lines?
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Hi,
How much is "fair bit of movement"..1,2..3...5...10 mm or more, are you sure is abnormal ????
Do you feel your brake lever "springy", soft, does it get momentarily better upon few quick application?????
Does your front brake operate properly or you feel poor braking and have to "pump" brake lever twice???
Does your bike have ABS !!!????
Is your frt brake lever hard upon application or sinking????
Do not know how much mechanical/hydraulic /brake experience you have but here are some professional thoughts to consider.
If anything is not clear please let me know and do NOT attempt repair on your own = see a professional technician!!!! SAFETY issue!!!!!!!
Tool you need:: SMALL flat screwdriver & 10 mm wrench, WD40, rag/paper towel.
1* hold your throttle and try to move frt brake lever away from it (opposite to braking) = you should feel "spring counter force/action", and up on releasing it, your brake lever should return to its neutral/start position. If it does NOT = remove bottom 10 mm nut , unscrew pivot/shoulder bolt by using a flat screwdriver, you do NOT have to do anything with throttle cables = there is enough room to pull out pivot/shoulder bolt. Separate brake lever from the rest (main body).
2* Now you have brake lever assy in your hand and inspect if :: brass bushing is seized up ( should rotate/move free in lever assy), worn/excessive ovality/free play or if the little spring is broken/weaken (see above "spring counter force/action"..if it passed its test at 1* you do not have to worry about the little spring)) or if pivot/ shoulder bolt has any wear = if any of these symptoms = replace frt brake LEVER assy with a brass bushing and pivot/shoulder bolt = not too expensive. You may only have as simple problem as lack of lubrication/sticky condition of frt brake lever. For lubrication you may use WD40, would not recommend solid grease due to dust/dirt attraction.
3* While frt brake lever is separated from main body, have a look at inside of main body and try pushing in brake master rod ( it is cover by rubber boot) = you should feel spring resistance and rod MUST freely return back = if it does NOT, it is seizing up (of whatever reason) and frt brake master MUST be replaced. You will not be able to bottom brake master rod/piston by using your finger = that is OK.
After re-assy , brake lever MUST have a bit of free play, allowing compensating port to be open, so brake fluid can freely flow from reservoir into master cylinder.
4* You may also have problem with air in frt brake system, seized/sticky caliper slider, sticky brake pad(s) or even sticky frt brake switch which may not allow brake lever to return to its start/original/rest position ... if so, then stop light would be on = resulting in drained battery ( if stop light comes on without turning ignition switch on !!) ...but these are less likely.
5* RE-ASSY in reverse order (lube pivot/lever/bushing prior)
** place back lever assy with brass bushing into main body aligning all holes....
** screw in pivot/shoulder bolt, start by fingers and then use a flat screwdriver, tighten good ( you will NOT be able to overtighten it if you use a SMALL s/driver) pivot/shoulder bolt ... CHECK NOW operation of frt brake lever = MUST freely operate without seizing/sticking), if YES, now tighten M10 bottom nut while holding pivot/shoulder bolt by flat screwdriver. Your front brake lever MUST freely operate/return to its starting/original position.
I think, I cover detailed step by step most possible scenarios
Let me know
Peter
______________-
'13CB, 42K
Am I going to have to learn how to bleed the brake lines?
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Hi,
How much is "fair bit of movement"..1,2..3...5...10 mm or more, are you sure is abnormal ????
Do you feel your brake lever "springy", soft, does it get momentarily better upon few quick application?????
Does your front brake operate properly or you feel poor braking and have to "pump" brake lever twice???
Does your bike have ABS !!!????
Is your frt brake lever hard upon application or sinking????
Do not know how much mechanical/hydraulic /brake experience you have but here are some professional thoughts to consider.
If anything is not clear please let me know and do NOT attempt repair on your own = see a professional technician!!!! SAFETY issue!!!!!!!
Tool you need:: SMALL flat screwdriver & 10 mm wrench, WD40, rag/paper towel.
1* hold your throttle and try to move frt brake lever away from it (opposite to braking) = you should feel "spring counter force/action", and up on releasing it, your brake lever should return to its neutral/start position. If it does NOT = remove bottom 10 mm nut , unscrew pivot/shoulder bolt by using a flat screwdriver, you do NOT have to do anything with throttle cables = there is enough room to pull out pivot/shoulder bolt. Separate brake lever from the rest (main body).
2* Now you have brake lever assy in your hand and inspect if :: brass bushing is seized up ( should rotate/move free in lever assy), worn/excessive ovality/free play or if the little spring is broken/weaken (see above "spring counter force/action"..if it passed its test at 1* you do not have to worry about the little spring)) or if pivot/ shoulder bolt has any wear = if any of these symptoms = replace frt brake LEVER assy with a brass bushing and pivot/shoulder bolt = not too expensive. You may only have as simple problem as lack of lubrication/sticky condition of frt brake lever. For lubrication you may use WD40, would not recommend solid grease due to dust/dirt attraction.
3* While frt brake lever is separated from main body, have a look at inside of main body and try pushing in brake master rod ( it is cover by rubber boot) = you should feel spring resistance and rod MUST freely return back = if it does NOT, it is seizing up (of whatever reason) and frt brake master MUST be replaced. You will not be able to bottom brake master rod/piston by using your finger = that is OK.
After re-assy , brake lever MUST have a bit of free play, allowing compensating port to be open, so brake fluid can freely flow from reservoir into master cylinder.
4* You may also have problem with air in frt brake system, seized/sticky caliper slider, sticky brake pad(s) or even sticky frt brake switch which may not allow brake lever to return to its start/original/rest position ... if so, then stop light would be on = resulting in drained battery ( if stop light comes on without turning ignition switch on !!) ...but these are less likely.
5* RE-ASSY in reverse order (lube pivot/lever/bushing prior)
** place back lever assy with brass bushing into main body aligning all holes....
** screw in pivot/shoulder bolt, start by fingers and then use a flat screwdriver, tighten good ( you will NOT be able to overtighten it if you use a SMALL s/driver) pivot/shoulder bolt ... CHECK NOW operation of frt brake lever = MUST freely operate without seizing/sticking), if YES, now tighten M10 bottom nut while holding pivot/shoulder bolt by flat screwdriver. Your front brake lever MUST freely operate/return to its starting/original position.
I think, I cover detailed step by step most possible scenarios
Let me know
Peter
______________-
'13CB, 42K