06-06-2018, 01:50 AM
As a back-up to the ferret's response:
1. Injectors are indeed noisy and that noise is normal.
2. I can hear pad contact when I push the bike in my garage.
3. Honda's labeled oil is good quality. I used GN4 at the first oil change, then switched to full synthetic HP4S at the second, then Castrol Power 1 at the third for 10W-40 in the southern Nevada heat. If not for wanting 10W-40, I would still be using the HP4S.
4. The stock air filter flow is more than adequate.
For the CB1100, 171 CFM is required at 8,500 RPM.
1140 cc x 8,500 RPM (redline) = 9,690,000 cubic centimeters
Divide that by 2 for a 4 stroke = 4,845,000 cc = 171 cu ft per minute.
K&N claims a flow capability of 498.64 CFM...but it cannot be anywhere near fully utilized by an 1140 cc motor.
Yes, The Honda filter is a tad expensive, but good quality and the Honda cap wrench fits it well. Honda 15410-MCE-H51 is one wrench and one filter.
Here is a bit more info which I accumulated while getting familiar with the bike, last November:
86 HP @ 7500 RPM
65.6 ft lbs @ 5700 RPM
0-30 1.2 seconds
0-60 3.3 seconds
0-90 6.8 seconds
0-100 8.6 seconds
1/4 mile 12.11 seconds @ 109.25
Front axle wrenches 17 mm Allen & 22 mm
Rear axle wrenches 22 mm & 27 mm
Spark plug 14 mm NGK LMAR8A-9S (stock 6817) available at O'Reilly's
Air filter 17210-MEJ-981
Oil filter + wrench Honda 15410-MCE-H51
Oil filter Honda 15410-MFJ-D01
Oil, 4 quarts Pro Honda GN4 10W-30
Crush washer 14 mm 94109-14000
engine guards 08P70-MGC-N20
Battery YTZ14S (O'Reilly DTZ14-S $103.99)
Regulator 31600-MGZ-J01
Stator 31120-MGC-014
Pulse generator 30300-MGC-003
Diode (fuse block) 31730-MAS-601
Relays (fuse block) 38501-MEL-003
10 amp fuses stop/horn
10 amp fuses meter illumination
10 amp fuses headlight
10 amp fuses start
10 amp fuses turn/clock
K&N (more expensive than Honda, (~$17 vs ~$13) had a batch with spot weld control issues on the 17 mm welded on "nut", resulting in oil leaks.
https://www.knfilters.com/mobile/recallkn204
BTW, I re-used the drain plug crush washer 3 times now. It did not feel as much "give" this last time, so I will replace it next oil change.
1. Injectors are indeed noisy and that noise is normal.
2. I can hear pad contact when I push the bike in my garage.
3. Honda's labeled oil is good quality. I used GN4 at the first oil change, then switched to full synthetic HP4S at the second, then Castrol Power 1 at the third for 10W-40 in the southern Nevada heat. If not for wanting 10W-40, I would still be using the HP4S.
4. The stock air filter flow is more than adequate.
For the CB1100, 171 CFM is required at 8,500 RPM.
1140 cc x 8,500 RPM (redline) = 9,690,000 cubic centimeters
Divide that by 2 for a 4 stroke = 4,845,000 cc = 171 cu ft per minute.
K&N claims a flow capability of 498.64 CFM...but it cannot be anywhere near fully utilized by an 1140 cc motor.
(06-06-2018, 01:45 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: 2017 he was asking about an air filter and not an oil filter, but your advise about using oem oil filters is spot on.
Yes, The Honda filter is a tad expensive, but good quality and the Honda cap wrench fits it well. Honda 15410-MCE-H51 is one wrench and one filter.
Here is a bit more info which I accumulated while getting familiar with the bike, last November:
86 HP @ 7500 RPM
65.6 ft lbs @ 5700 RPM
0-30 1.2 seconds
0-60 3.3 seconds
0-90 6.8 seconds
0-100 8.6 seconds
1/4 mile 12.11 seconds @ 109.25
Front axle wrenches 17 mm Allen & 22 mm
Rear axle wrenches 22 mm & 27 mm
Spark plug 14 mm NGK LMAR8A-9S (stock 6817) available at O'Reilly's
Air filter 17210-MEJ-981
Oil filter + wrench Honda 15410-MCE-H51
Oil filter Honda 15410-MFJ-D01
Oil, 4 quarts Pro Honda GN4 10W-30
Crush washer 14 mm 94109-14000
engine guards 08P70-MGC-N20
Battery YTZ14S (O'Reilly DTZ14-S $103.99)
Regulator 31600-MGZ-J01
Stator 31120-MGC-014
Pulse generator 30300-MGC-003
Diode (fuse block) 31730-MAS-601
Relays (fuse block) 38501-MEL-003
10 amp fuses stop/horn
10 amp fuses meter illumination
10 amp fuses headlight
10 amp fuses start
10 amp fuses turn/clock
(06-06-2018, 01:43 AM)2017EX_imp Wrote: Cant comment on #1. #2- Generally new disc brakes will slightly touch, and becomes a little less evident as the brakes wear in from new. To check the amount of touch the pads have on the disc, put the bike on the center stand, and have someone sit on the bike which will raise the front wheel off the ground. With the front wheel off the ground, spin the front wheel by hand. The wheel should spin with slight brush against the disc. #3- Oil is a matter of personal choice, provided it is of the type specified in the manual, and the correct viscosity. That said, I prefer to stick with Honda oil, and after initial break in at the first oil change, I went to the full synthetic Honda HP4S. #4- Whether it is my car, or my bike, I always use OEM filters. I really cant see any reason to go aftermarket on a filter, but at the same time, particularly with a machine that is in warranty, I dont want to give the machines manufacturer any excuse to deny warranty should there ever be a problem. In addition, I have read about problems with some aftermarket filters, whereas I have never read about any problems with OEM filters.
K&N (more expensive than Honda, (~$17 vs ~$13) had a batch with spot weld control issues on the 17 mm welded on "nut", resulting in oil leaks.
https://www.knfilters.com/mobile/recallkn204
BTW, I re-used the drain plug crush washer 3 times now. It did not feel as much "give" this last time, so I will replace it next oil change.