11-09-2018, 02:17 AM
Bryan none of us have the issue ourselves so we have to make best guesses but we learned a lot through Dave who did fix his iacv. there are two other members who have had success with this repair, it seems to only affect some 2014 models ( with some exeptions ) and we don't know why.
The iacv is a motorized air valve that regulates the amount of air to maintain 1050 rpm at idle, very much like opening the throttle slightly, it replaces the old school idle adjust screw and combines with the choke function and makes it automatic, it gets " stuck " at some point and gets worse over time.
Popgun is right, i thought i had found a shortcut but i was wrong, it did not work unfortunately.
The throttle body can stay where it is but the airbox needs to be removed towards the back so the tank, batterybox, rear fender etc have to be removed to gain access to the iacv which you need before all this is done, take lots of pictures so you know how things looked prior to removal.
Something that may work for you is disconnecting it when the bike behaves, is warmed up and idles at 1050 rpm, the piston inside will then stay open and doesn't move so the idle rpm stays around 1050 when warmed up, you need to remove the right hand plastic throttle body cover with the plastic screw and tilt it down to get access to the blue 4 pole connector, you squeeze the tab in the middle to unlock it and pull it out whilst the bike idles at 1050 rpm.
However you will get an orange check engine light blinking indicating a defect iacv code and may have to open the throttle a bit to get the engine to start initially but that may work ok in Hawaii because of the warm climate.
The c.e.l. light will stop when the connector is re-connected but the code remains in the memory and not visible unless it is in "service mode" and can then be erased by a sequence of the red service connector electrical wire link.
here is how to do this; https://youtu.be/iwSllBQNsWc
The iacv is a motorized air valve that regulates the amount of air to maintain 1050 rpm at idle, very much like opening the throttle slightly, it replaces the old school idle adjust screw and combines with the choke function and makes it automatic, it gets " stuck " at some point and gets worse over time.
Popgun is right, i thought i had found a shortcut but i was wrong, it did not work unfortunately.
The throttle body can stay where it is but the airbox needs to be removed towards the back so the tank, batterybox, rear fender etc have to be removed to gain access to the iacv which you need before all this is done, take lots of pictures so you know how things looked prior to removal.
Something that may work for you is disconnecting it when the bike behaves, is warmed up and idles at 1050 rpm, the piston inside will then stay open and doesn't move so the idle rpm stays around 1050 when warmed up, you need to remove the right hand plastic throttle body cover with the plastic screw and tilt it down to get access to the blue 4 pole connector, you squeeze the tab in the middle to unlock it and pull it out whilst the bike idles at 1050 rpm.
However you will get an orange check engine light blinking indicating a defect iacv code and may have to open the throttle a bit to get the engine to start initially but that may work ok in Hawaii because of the warm climate.
The c.e.l. light will stop when the connector is re-connected but the code remains in the memory and not visible unless it is in "service mode" and can then be erased by a sequence of the red service connector electrical wire link.
here is how to do this; https://youtu.be/iwSllBQNsWc