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 Ticking noise from top part of engine
#21
(05-06-2020, 05:02 PM)zirconxi_imp Wrote: The flapping sound, sound like its from cylinder cover, from these component (circled in red).
Maybe you can use a stethoscope to confirm the location.



(05-04-2020, 09:25 AM)Kingkong_imp Wrote: Here we go.
https://youtu.be/NX57fpqvjPo

This should work. Thank you very much everyone i appreciate your help.
I put coil 1 on the 4th , the ticking is still there in the video.

Also there is that weird sound (like a zap) while the pump is turning on (injectors maybe?) , i haven't heard that sound in any videos of CBs. it's at 11 seconds, 1:50 ...

Thanks again.
Not sure about how to troubleshoot these "Reed valve comp." But I believe you can plug the hole (there's a rubber hose connected to these) to see if the sound change. If I remember correctly, its a waste gas management system. So shouldn't affect engine function.
Not sure about how to troubleshoot these "Reed valve comp." But I believe you can plug the hole (there's a rubber hose connected to these) to see if the sound change. If I remember correctly, its a waste gas management system. So shouldn't affect engine function.
I tried but still the ticking master was at work. I also switched the coil thinking maybe? that didn't work.
I check the spark housing and cables. All seem good.
I checked the bolts on the exhaust too (again).

Running out of ideas and at 9k miles, how/why the hell would i need a valve adjustment! this is becoming a frustrating thing.
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#22
Well, despite the fact that most folks who have checked the valves at 8000 as recommended do not require adjustment, an inspection at this point would not be a terrible idea.

Ben
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#23
My CB had the valves very poorly adjusted from factory, I did the adjustment with around 1500Km. When you accelerate and then release the sound dissapears (fuel cut), could be an injector? Maybe you can disconnect one injector of right side and see if sound dissapears (will be running with 3 cylinders but doesn't matter if it is 1 minute at idle speed).
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#24
Hi guys, I'm a bike mechanic in Perth Australia
I have just repaired a client's bike that had a loud ticking noise on the left-hand side of the cam cover and it had not so long ago had the shims checked by another shop and he got it back and it was I did some checks shim clearance , cam tower valve operation, they were a good then looked at the seals for the smog valves and found a O ring seal was lost and replaced with a std O ring which was not the correct size or shape , lucky for myself and the owner that I found it where the last tool dropped it fitted it back in and no more exhaust leak from the rocker cover smog valve , I hope this fixes some of your dramas with this model of bike . Cheers
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#25
Welcome to the forum GAVSP1 and thanks very much for the information. Are you a rider too?
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#26
Watched your video with the plug lead on and off the no.4 plug, there is a marked difference in sound. I wonder if you have a burnt out valve and the noise is just the combustion escaping when it shouldn't? Take all the plug leads off and spark plugs out and turn over the engine by hand (put the bike in a high gear and rotate the rear wheel) and stick your finger in the plug hole number 4 to make sure you are getting some compression. It is a little crude I know but it might at least rule out a bad valve or closed up valve clearances. You are going to need someone to rotate the back wheel for you. If you have a compression tester (very cheap on E-Bay) even better, you can turn the bike over with the starter and check it that way.
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#27
Hey, welcome to the Forum GAVSP1.

Your find sounds interesting, if not then possibly satisfying. May you rediscover the remaining bliss you were expecting from the CB1100.
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#28
(05-06-2020, 05:02 PM)zirconxi_imp Wrote: The flapping sound, sound like its from cylinder cover, from these component (circled in red).
Maybe you can use a stethoscope to confirm the location.



(05-04-2020, 09:25 AM)Kingkong_imp Wrote: Here we go.
https://youtu.be/NX57fpqvjPo

This should work. Thank you very much everyone i appreciate your help.
I put coil 1 on the 4th , the ticking is still there in the video.

Also there is that weird sound (like a zap) while the pump is turning on (injectors maybe?) , i haven't heard that sound in any videos of CBs. it's at 11 seconds, 1:50 ...

Thanks again.
Not sure about how to troubleshoot these "Reed valve comp." But I believe you can plug the hole (there's a rubber hose connected to these) to see if the sound change. If I remember correctly, its a waste gas management system. So shouldn't affect engine function.
This is the area that I also focused on for the ticking/clicking. Used a stethoscope and right side of valve cover was louder. I actually thought there might be an exhaust leak somewhere but could not find one. I ultimately resolve the ticking/clicking problem during by recent valve adjustment effort ... FYI, I don't think the problem was the valve clearances. During this effort, I disassembled the valve cover components including the two PAR reed valve assys, cleaned/soaked them with vinegar, and scrubbed with small parts cleaning brush ... all came out shiny clean. Note everything was covered in a thick/caked layer of black exhaust particles. Upon seeing this, my first thought was that the "metal reeds" could be sticking and or didn't close/seal flush with the body because of the particles. PS ... I also stripped and re-clearcoated the valve cover. ANYWAY, I have put 200 miles on the bike since then and there is no ticking/clicking ... yeah!
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#29
really sounds like a plug wire arking out too me a valve lash sound isn't as high pitched as that id say you have a bad plug wire

i did watch the entire video as well,
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#30
Our Australian friend found the missing link ( o-ring ) i think.
Since the variable ticking sound disappeared when the combustion stopped ( sparkplug disconnected ) it is likely that the
exhaust reed valve seal is not working properly.
The pair valve system works on the principle of mixing air into the exhaust system by letting some air into the exhaust through a one way reed valve into the exhaust port using the "vacuum" that happens after the ex valves close and the shockwave makes it's way down the exhaust pipe, the resulting under pressure " sucks " some air past the reed valve and dilutes/ combusts the mixture resulting in cleaner exhaust emissions for the purpose of passing emission regulations.



The two openings to the exhaust channels can be seen in the picture between the spark plugs and the back of the rocker cover just outside of the tappet cover seal and will have an o-ring each in the tappet cover leading to the two reed valves bolted to the top of the valve tappet cover.

To test this you could use a plastic hose and listen to these openings for gas escaping here.

Second possibility is a faulty reed valve, this can be checked by inspecting the valves by removing the two bolts that hold the " flapper valve " housing to the tappet cover, these valves are meant to stop exhaust gas escaping through the air injection system, if a reed valve is not working it should be obvious by removing the rubber air hose to the flapper valve housing.

Question; has the tappet cover been removed in the past?

Very interesting find here GAVSP1, thanks for your help.

And thanks bflint for your update, appreciated.
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