Warped rotors?

[jimgl3_imp]

I think I am on to something... Our rotor bolts have a "spring" between the bolt and the rotor. As I have never removed these myself, I don't know which way they go, but I can tell you they definitely have a right way and a wrong way. the way they came off (which is how the shop may have put them on if they took them off to mount a tire) they fit snuggly against the bolt and do not seem like they would "spring" at all. but if I turn them around and put opposite the way they came off, the they stick out at the outer edge and would certainly "spring" so long as the bolt bottoms out before they are squashed completely. So, does anyone here know? and could this be what caused the warped rotor feeling I was getting? It would make sense to me, since the rotors would not "float" at all I don't think if assembled the snug fitting way. Wow, I really hope someone knows! and if you have a shop manual, I'm going to need the precise torque value. (to keep from squashing the "springs") I know Honda spent some time and money on this bike, but this seems like a really cheap way of faking floating rotors...
think I found answer to torque = 15 ft lb

[misterprofessionality]

I can say that I have definitely experienced this. It happened to me as a consequence of trying to change my own tire and getting a bit rough with the wheel in the process. I ended up buying a rotor for about 25 bucks on ebay. fortunately it was only one of them.

i remember trying every suggestion in the book...clean the rotos, change the pads, scrub or sand them. ect ect. in the end that unmistakable oscillating feeling was definitely a warped rotor.

[jimgl3_imp]

did you notice the rotor bolt springs?

[misterprofessionality]

I remember something finicky when I was removing the rotor but it all went back together the same as it was.

[Lord Popgun]

The springs actually rest against a collar. So, bolt, collar, spring, rotor. The manual says to install the springs as shown in the illustration. Bolt torque value is 15 foot lbs.

It does say to match the arrow mark on the rotor with the arrow on the wheel.

I don’t know how to describe the spring installation, but it looks like wider at the collar and narrow at the rotor. PM me your email and I will send you a pic of the manual page.

[jimgl3_imp]

L P, I see what you mean. I was referring to the bolt and collar as "the bolt". And now that I've looked at it again having been away a bit, I see that so long as the collar surface is flat, it would really make little difference which way it was turned, it would actually spring the same. It is just not as apparent to the eye turned that way. I am curious to see the manual, but your description is actually pretty good. I think the way you describe it is the way mine came off.

[Stichill_imp]

Ferret, yeah, he was riding the brake and overheated the rotor.

I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads

IN GENERAL TO ALL:
STOP REPLACING PARTS PRIOR DIAGNOSIS..
IF ROTORS ARE WARPED = ONLY SOLUTION IS REPLACEMENT. PERIOD!!!

First, take a visual look at rotor, if it has baked in pad imprint or rusty spot line across rotor it will be vibrating upon brake application ( and mostly front). This may happen after long storage (and moisture) or after washing bike and not spinning it after to dry out brakes = rust just LOVE this condition. You may help to certain point by deglazing rusty spot...but if it is too much or no help = replacement.
Use a dial gauge to check run out... you can also check thickness of your rotors at several different spots by using micrometer...compare with specs = always
If rotor is overheated ( for whatever reason), find out why = cure it and replace rotor!!!!.
PRIOR REPLACING ROTOR = CLEAN CONTACT SURFACE AND TORQUE IT DOWN TO PROPER SPECS.
Cheers to all CB riders,
Peter
--------------------
'13CB, 42K

https://www.cycleworld.com/story/blogs/a...eshooting/

[peterbaron]

kindly sir

[jimgl3_imp]

news flash!!!

DO NOT reuse rotor bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



any suggestions on how to now get broken off bolt out of wheel?

didn't even make it to 15 ft lbs!

[peterbaron]

Is the broken bolt sticking out???

Here are some different technics:

[url=https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+get+out+a+broken+bolt&oq=how+to+get+out+a+bro&aqs=chrome.1.0l3j69i57j0l6.8305j1j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8]https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+g...e&ie=UTF-8

* Instead of using a chisel, use a centre punch for smaller bolts...and be careful not to drift to or damage the alloy base...
* pilot hole and extractor - very good and easy method
* avoid welding in your case.
Choose a method that you feel comfortable with...and be patient.
Good luck