Very clunky shifting

[Mdalon_imp]

I had some Klunk issues within first 600 miles. Everything will find its happy place a friend told me. It did all kinds of quirky shift nuances and now with 3300 miles on it she shifts so smooth and brakes like a dream. If you want this bike to run right make sure the oil is as close to the top line as possible between half and 3/4 in window. Running the clutch, transmission and engine oil out of 1 system needs to be as full as possible. I had oil at the lower lever and it was difficult to shift the clutch slipped, and engine running hotter. If the oil is on the lower line after the run shutoff and drain window check. Add a little oil at a time like 2-3oz and check. Stop at the halfway point in window because it takes awhile for the oil to sink. Run the engine drive it around then park. You will see it almost to the full mark. Perfect. Everything then finds it's happy place.

[AzBob_imp]

When I first got my CB750 in 1976, I took it back to the dealer and complained about clunky shifting and he told me I just didn't know how to shift it right....I think for the most part he was right.

I thought I knew how to shift a manual transmission until I rented a Ford CL9000 semi truck 30 years ago and drove it on a 400 mile round trip. To make a long story short, I burned the clutch out of it coming back and had to drive it all the way home without a clutch.

I found out, when shifting up gears, you always need to accelerate right before you shift and as you let off the throttle, it will synchronize and "float" out of that gear hit the higher gear in sync.

Shifting down, you always need to bump the throttle to help synchronize the gears and help them "float" together.

I'm sure motorcycles like cars have "synchronizing" rings that help mesh gears together even if you don't help by shifting correctly, but helping them will make things go smoother.

The funny thing about the semi truck, is going up or coming down in gears was not a problem without the clutch unless you missed one or tried to skip a gear, then it was anyone's guess what the proper synchronizing was needed so you almost had to come to a complete stop and start over.

Another funny thing is without a clutch, the only way to stop at a stop light, was you had to accelerate in 1st gear right before you wanted to stop, then pull it into neutral, but under de-acceleration it wouldn't come out of 1st. Then, luckily 1st gear was so low, to take off you just had to jam it into first without the clutch and it would take off immediately.

That was the first and last time I ever drove a semi truck ;-)



PS: I agree, tightening chain tension does also help, I'm not sure if it actually makes the shifting smoother or it creates a more direct drive that reduces the impulse-momentum the slack in the chain can build up. More physics than I want to thing about, but is a link about it: [url=http://www.physicsclassroom.com/calcpad/momentum]http://www.physicsclassroom.com/calcpad/momentum

Constant-mesh, sequential motorcycle transmissions do not have synchronizers. The transmission is always in gear and all you're doing by shifting is moving the shifter fork. With enough of a push or pull of the shift lever, it will always work, however you may grind the dogs off, eventually, or bend the fork.

[Zappertomm_imp]

I have the same shifting clunk in all lower gears. Much worse that other Honda's I have owned over the years. It has the dealer's stock oil, which will be changed out very soon. Hope this helps. I already adjusted the chain to minimum 1" slack.

I have 1900 miles on it, so I had hoped to have it broke in. Bought it at 1830 miles, so no telling wha tthe previous owned did.

The throttle seems very, very sensitive on backing off the when shifting. Only a few degrees of throttle change seems a huge difference when around RPM around 2000-3000. It drops to idle almost immediately. Any advice is welcome.

[the Ferret]

Zap.. Check throttle play, should be 4-6 MM I believe, but this is a fuel injected bike and they by nature are sensitive to just on/off throttle positions when compared to a carbed bike. The CB is actually a lot better than most. On a carbed bike there was a pilot jet for low throttle input, a needle and a main jet. The needle eased the transition from pilot to main. FI is a lot more direct and therefore a lot more sensitive. You will learn not to chop the throttle on decel but to roll it off and roll it back on. All of my bikes are now FI so I don't even think about it anymore..smooth on smooth off.

[mininsx_imp]

I have the same shifting clunk in all lower gears. Much worse that other Honda's I have owned over the years. It has the dealer's stock oil, which will be changed out very soon. Hope this helps. I already adjusted the chain to minimum 1" slack.

I have 1900 miles on it, so I had hoped to have it broke in. Bought it at 1830 miles, so no telling wha tthe previous owned did.

The throttle seems very, very sensitive on backing off the when shifting. Only a few degrees of throttle change seems a huge difference when around RPM around 2000-3000. It drops to idle almost immediately. Any advice is welcome.

Try not rolling all the way off on the throttle, just roll off enough to go below the RPM of the next gear, if you know what I mean. Like when you're downshifting and you rev-match to the next lower gear to limit clutch/driveline wear? Do the same thing on upshifts and it'll be smoother.

[offroadfx4_imp]

When I first got my CB750 in 1976, I took it back to the dealer and complained about clunky shifting and he told me I just didn't know how to shift it right....I think for the most part he was right.

I thought I knew how to shift a manual transmission until I rented a Ford CL9000 semi truck 30 years ago and drove it on a 400 mile round trip. To make a long story short, I burned the clutch out of it coming back and had to drive it all the way home without a clutch.

I found out, when shifting up gears, you always need to accelerate right before you shift and as you let off the throttle, it will synchronize and "float" out of that gear hit the higher gear in sync.

Shifting down, you always need to bump the throttle to help synchronize the gears and help them "float" together.

I'm sure motorcycles like cars have "synchronizing" rings that help mesh gears together even if you don't help by shifting correctly, but helping them will make things go smoother.

The funny thing about the semi truck, is going up or coming down in gears was not a problem without the clutch unless you missed one or tried to skip a gear, then it was anyone's guess what the proper synchronizing was needed so you almost had to come to a complete stop and start over.

Another funny thing is without a clutch, the only way to stop at a stop light, was you had to accelerate in 1st gear right before you wanted to stop, then pull it into neutral, but under de-acceleration it wouldn't come out of 1st. Then, luckily 1st gear was so low, to take off you just had to jam it into first without the clutch and it would take off immediately.

That was the first and last time I ever drove a semi truck ;-)



PS: I agree, tightening chain tension does also help, I'm not sure if it actually makes the shifting smoother or it creates a more direct drive that reduces the impulse-momentum the slack in the chain can build up. More physics than I want to thing about, but is a link about it: [url=http://www.physicsclassroom.com/calcpad/momentum]http://www.physicsclassroom.com/calcpad/momentum

Constant-mesh, sequential motorcycle transmissions do not have synchronizers. The transmission is always in gear and all you're doing by shifting is moving the shifter fork. With enough of a push or pull of the shift lever, it will always work, however you may grind the dogs off, eventually, or bend the fork.

Constant-mesh, sequential motorcycle transmissions do not have synchronizers. The transmission is always in gear and all you're doing by shifting is moving the shifter fork. With enough of a push or pull of the shift lever, it will always work, however you may grind the dogs off, eventually, or bend the fork. Thanks....Never too old to learn!

I sold auto parts for years and remembered the brass synchronizing rings as being a good sellers from being stripped out all the time.

Here is a good animation of the shift cam moving different forks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq11CusULlk

[Zappertomm_imp]

So I just got my CB1100 and I noticed that the shifting feels very heavy. I shifting any gear I can hear it in my helmet. Just sorta feels like I'm shifting a tank! Is this normal? If so fine, but the shifter feedback is quite heavy and notchy. Clutch engagement is buttery and nice, though it will slip on hard shifts if I don't throw the clutch out super quick. Not a huge deal, my fault. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

Just got my CB1100 two weeks ago. Had the same issue with the shifting and surge/backlast with throttle changes. So, I replaced petroleum based oil with Castrol Edge 10W40 full synthetic oil, adjusted the clutch and throttle handlebar controls to a better "feel", added thicker grips (increases diameter for reduced sensitivity to throttle changes), tightened the drive chain to minimum spec, and voila, the surge is now acceptable. I know an old rider at work that says the surge is charateristic of fuel injected bikes over the last couple of years (coupled with lean lmixture to meet emission specs). He says feathering the clutch is about the only want to manage it. I tried the above, as well.

Rides good now. I'm a happer camper.....errrr.....rider.

Zappertomm

[treytexag_imp]

So I just got my CB1100 and I noticed that the shifting feels very heavy. I shifting any gear I can hear it in my helmet. Just sorta feels like I'm shifting a tank! Is this normal? If so fine, but the shifter feedback is quite heavy and notchy. Clutch engagement is buttery and nice, though it will slip on hard shifts if I don't throw the clutch out super quick. Not a huge deal, my fault. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

Just got my CB1100 two weeks ago. Had the same issue with the shifting and surge/backlast with throttle changes. So, I replaced petroleum based oil with Castrol Edge 10W40 full synthetic oil, adjusted the clutch and throttle handlebar controls to a better "feel", added thicker grips (increases diameter for reduced sensitivity to throttle changes), tightened the drive chain to minimum spec, and voila, the surge is now acceptable. I know an old rider at work that says the surge is charateristic of fuel injected bikes over the last couple of years (coupled with lean lmixture to meet emission specs). He says feathering the clutch is about the only want to manage it. I tried the above, as well.

Rides good now. I'm a happer camper.....errrr.....rider.

Zappertomm

Just got my CB1100 two weeks ago. Had the same issue with the shifting and surge/backlast with throttle changes. So, I replaced petroleum based oil with Castrol Edge 10W40 full synthetic oil, adjusted the clutch and throttle handlebar controls to a better "feel", added thicker grips (increases diameter for reduced sensitivity to throttle changes), tightened the drive chain to minimum spec, and voila, the surge is now acceptable. I know an old rider at work that says the surge is charateristic of fuel injected bikes over the last couple of years (coupled with lean lmixture to meet emission specs). He says feathering the clutch is about the only want to manage it. I tried the above, as well.

Rides good now. I'm a happer camper.....errrr.....rider.

Zappertomm
Zap, I hope you don't mind me asking these questions. When you say adjusted clutch and throttle to a better "feel" - what does that mean? You adjusted them to be "tighter" or "looser"? Also, which grips did you put on the CB? Did you have to "cut on" the grips to fit them?

Please advise sir.

[Zappertomm_imp]

Adjusted the throttle adjustment at the grip mount. Adjusted the clutch from 5 to 3 on the lever setting. Used a slip-on grip (WD-40 FTW) from Amazon. It went over the original grips.

[Zappertomm_imp]

Just replaced the front drive sprocket (+ one tooth) and the back sprocket (- one tooth), and wow! Shifting is much better and rpms are much better suited for around town driving. It now feels RIGHT!