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(04-17-2020, 08:10 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: (04-16-2020, 04:48 PM)iamheero_imp Wrote: While we've revived this topic, and maybe more on-topic, I'm very curious to know if anyone's done the swap from a '14 to '17 type wheels yet (or vice-versa). I really want to put my '14 gold wheels on my '17 but the number of parts needed (I think it's mostly the rotors that are most expensive) are scary! Of course if there were anyone in southern CA who wanted to trade parts that would just be ideal. I've even been scouring copart and craigslist for a cheap/crashed '14 to take the parts off of.
I had considered your Magtan wheels for my 2017 and did a little research, but instead purchased a set of 2014 DLX wheels from a forum member. I have not installed them yet, will likely be a month or so before I do. Since you had the Magtans on your 2014 Standard, you know the front will, with the right discs, just bolt in.
There may be one problem. As your 2017 is an ABS model, it will need to have a front pulser ring, which bolts behind the right side brake disc. The 2013 ABS and Standard models have a different part number for their front wheels, likely due to the thickness of the pulser ring (2.0 mm thick) pushing the disc outward 2.0 mm. The 5 rotor bolt bosses may have been machined down 2.0mm so that the brake disc rotor will sit in the exact center of the caliper.
If this is so, you have some options. You could machine the right side disc bosses 2.0 mm, take 2.0 mm off the right caliper's mounting bosses, or 2.0 mm off the caliper mounts on the fork slider. Or assemble it like it is and let brake pads/pistons compensate 2.0 mm within the caliper. There should be enough disc rotor-to-caliper body clearance. You would have to space the front speed sensor pickup outwards 2.0 mm though, and check the air gap between the sensor and sensor ring.
At the rear, the axle diameters are the same. You will need a disc rotor and pulser ring. I assume you have the sprocket and cush-drive from your 2014. The rear caliper brackets are different, although the caliper is the same. I am not sure the rear caliper bracket needs to be changed yet. The stock 2017 brake hose is a little longer, but I haven't tried it yet and will look at re-routing it if needed rather than replacing it.
Rear sprockets will interchange. I can't be sure which rear wheel spacers are correct until I actually swap them. I will report when I have done the swap.
As far as parts prices, there currently is on eBay for $360, a set of 3 rotors and a rear pulser ring WITH the disc mounting hardware (that hardware alone is about $180 new).
Really interested to see how your swap goes, and if you use any machinists let me know! I think we're in a similar area of SoCal so I can probably use your guy. I was looking at EBay yesterday and I think I saw the listing, but not sure if I want to take the plunge and start buying parts for it yet or what. I've also just thought about selling the '17, trading to a cheaper '14 with my gold wheels, and maybe picking up a second more cruiser-y bike (Goldwing, Street Glide, or LowRider S)
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(04-17-2020, 08:10 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: (04-16-2020, 04:48 PM)iamheero_imp Wrote: While we've revived this topic, and maybe more on-topic, I'm very curious to know if anyone's done the swap from a '14 to '17 type wheels yet (or vice-versa). I really want to put my '14 gold wheels on my '17 but the number of parts needed (I think it's mostly the rotors that are most expensive) are scary! Of course if there were anyone in southern CA who wanted to trade parts that would just be ideal. I've even been scouring copart and craigslist for a cheap/crashed '14 to take the parts off of.
I had considered your Magtan wheels for my 2017 and did a little research, but instead purchased a set of 2014 DLX wheels from a forum member. I have not installed them yet, will likely be a month or so before I do. Since you had the Magtans on your 2014 Standard, you know the front will, with the right discs, just bolt in.
There may be one problem. As your 2017 is an ABS model, it will need to have a front pulser ring, which bolts behind the right side brake disc. The 2013 ABS and Standard models have a different part number for their front wheels, likely due to the thickness of the pulser ring (2.0 mm thick) pushing the disc outward 2.0 mm. The 5 rotor bolt bosses may have been machined down 2.0mm so that the brake disc rotor will sit in the exact center of the caliper.
If this is so, you have some options. You could machine the right side disc bosses 2.0 mm, take 2.0 mm off the right caliper's mounting bosses, or 2.0 mm off the caliper mounts on the fork slider. Or assemble it like it is and let brake pads/pistons compensate 2.0 mm within the caliper. There should be enough disc rotor-to-caliper body clearance. You would have to space the front speed sensor pickup outwards 2.0 mm though, and check the air gap between the sensor and sensor ring.
At the rear, the axle diameters are the same. You will need a disc rotor and pulser ring. I assume you have the sprocket and cush-drive from your 2014. The rear caliper brackets are different, although the caliper is the same. I am not sure the rear caliper bracket needs to be changed yet. The stock 2017 brake hose is a little longer, but I haven't tried it yet and will look at re-routing it if needed rather than replacing it.
Rear sprockets will interchange. I can't be sure which rear wheel spacers are correct until I actually swap them. I will report when I have done the swap.
As far as parts prices, there currently is on eBay for $360, a set of 3 rotors and a rear pulser ring WITH the disc mounting hardware (that hardware alone is about $180 new).
Love this detail! Totally impressed. 
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(04-17-2020, 09:18 AM)iamheero_imp Wrote: (04-17-2020, 08:10 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: (04-16-2020, 04:48 PM)iamheero_imp Wrote: While we've revived this topic, and maybe more on-topic, I'm very curious to know if anyone's done the swap from a '14 to '17 type wheels yet (or vice-versa). I really want to put my '14 gold wheels on my '17 but the number of parts needed (I think it's mostly the rotors that are most expensive) are scary! Of course if there were anyone in southern CA who wanted to trade parts that would just be ideal. I've even been scouring copart and craigslist for a cheap/crashed '14 to take the parts off of.
I had considered your Magtan wheels for my 2017 and did a little research, but instead purchased a set of 2014 DLX wheels from a forum member. I have not installed them yet, will likely be a month or so before I do. Since you had the Magtans on your 2014 Standard, you know the front will, with the right discs, just bolt in.
There may be one problem. As your 2017 is an ABS model, it will need to have a front pulser ring, which bolts behind the right side brake disc. The 2013 ABS and Standard models have a different part number for their front wheels, likely due to the thickness of the pulser ring (2.0 mm thick) pushing the disc outward 2.0 mm. The 5 rotor bolt bosses may have been machined down 2.0mm so that the brake disc rotor will sit in the exact center of the caliper.
If this is so, you have some options. You could machine the right side disc bosses 2.0 mm, take 2.0 mm off the right caliper's mounting bosses, or 2.0 mm off the caliper mounts on the fork slider. Or assemble it like it is and let brake pads/pistons compensate 2.0 mm within the caliper. There should be enough disc rotor-to-caliper body clearance. You would have to space the front speed sensor pickup outwards 2.0 mm though, and check the air gap between the sensor and sensor ring.
At the rear, the axle diameters are the same. You will need a disc rotor and pulser ring. I assume you have the sprocket and cush-drive from your 2014. The rear caliper brackets are different, although the caliper is the same. I am not sure the rear caliper bracket needs to be changed yet. The stock 2017 brake hose is a little longer, but I haven't tried it yet and will look at re-routing it if needed rather than replacing it.
Rear sprockets will interchange. I can't be sure which rear wheel spacers are correct until I actually swap them. I will report when I have done the swap.
As far as parts prices, there currently is on eBay for $360, a set of 3 rotors and a rear pulser ring WITH the disc mounting hardware (that hardware alone is about $180 new).
Really interested to see how your swap goes, and if you use any machinists let me know! I think we're in a similar area of SoCal so I can probably use your guy. I was looking at EBay yesterday and I think I saw the listing, but not sure if I want to take the plunge and start buying parts for it yet or what. I've also just thought about selling the '17, trading to a cheaper '14 with my gold wheels, and maybe picking up a second more cruiser-y bike (Goldwing, Street Glide, or LowRider S)
Really interested to see how your swap goes, and if you use any machinists let me know! I think we're in a similar area of SoCal so I can probably use your guy. I was looking at EBay yesterday and I think I saw the listing, but not sure if I want to take the plunge and start buying parts for it yet or what. I've also just thought about selling the '17, trading to a cheaper '14 with my gold wheels, and maybe picking up a second more cruiser-y bike (Goldwing, Street Glide, or LowRider S) I still like the looks of my 2014 DLX better than my 2017 , probably a smart thing to do if you do not care for the wire wheels.
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I have a 2013 ABS that have wanted to change to the wire spoke wheels.
I am still researching the cost
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(04-17-2020, 11:48 PM)Jeffg_imp Wrote: I have a 2013 ABS that have wanted to change to the wire spoke wheels.
I am still researching the cost The 2013s have a larger diameter rear axle (25mm vs 20mm on 2014 & 2017), so you would need to make spacers or replace the swingarm and adjusters.
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