Gear Selector Issue

[Olof_imp]

Picking up this old thread, as I have the same issue - 1st is reluctant to engage and easily jumps out, into neutral (2018 RS). Of course, shifting habits may play in but I've had 50+ bikes and seldom run into this, also have ridden other CB11000's (also 2018) and had no problem there.

Anybody else out there, having experienced this?

[dave]

Picking up this old thread, as I have the same issue - 1st is reluctant to engage and easily jumps out, into neutral (2018 RS). Of course, shifting habits may play in but I've had 50+ bikes and seldom run into this, also have ridden other CB11000's (also 2018) and had no problem there.

Anybody else out there, having experienced this?

Every now and then my 2014 deluxe refuses to downshift from 2nd gear into 1st gear as I roll up to a stop light. I am still moving, so the gears should be meshing properly. The solution is to take any force off the shift lever (allowing the transmission to stay in neutral), and then gently reapplying a downward force to engage 1st gear. Releasing the clutch lever while performing this pause in neutral works very well. My 1998 VFR800 developed the exact same condition after about 75,000 miles. I solved this by replacing the gearshift spindle. The old one had maybe .002" of wear on it where the finger grabs the shift drum and rotates it, but this must have been enough to cause the problem.

[Whoops]

Picking up this old thread, as I have the same issue - 1st is reluctant to engage and easily jumps out, into neutral (2018 RS). Of course, shifting habits may play in but I've had 50+ bikes and seldom run into this, also have ridden other CB11000's (also 2018) and had no problem there.

Anybody else out there, having experienced this?

Every now and then my 2014 deluxe refuses to downshift from 2nd gear into 1st gear as I roll up to a stop light. I am still moving, so the gears should be meshing properly. The solution is to take any force off the shift lever (allowing the transmission to stay in neutral), and then gently reapplying a downward force to engage 1st gear. Releasing the clutch lever while performing this pause in neutral works very well. My 1998 VFR800 developed the exact same condition after about 75,000 miles. I solved this by replacing the gearshift spindle. The old one had maybe .002" of wear on it where the finger grabs the shift drum and rotates it, but this must have been enough to cause the problem.

Every now and then my 2014 deluxe refuses to downshift from 2nd gear into 1st gear as I roll up to a stop light. I am still moving, so the gears should be meshing properly. The solution is to take any force off the shift lever (allowing the transmission to stay in neutral), and then gently reapplying a downward force to engage 1st gear. Releasing the clutch lever while performing this pause in neutral works very well. My 1998 VFR800 developed the exact same condition after about 75,000 miles. I solved this by replacing the gearshift spindle. The old one had maybe .002" of wear on it where the finger grabs the shift drum and rotates it, but this must have been enough to cause the problem.
I find just riding up to the light as I slow down with light pressure on the down shift with no clutch until the teeth stop buzzing and it clunks in works best. Kidding of course.

But seriously I noticed this too and I seem to be able to avoid it if I get into first before my bike comes to a complete stop, I presume before the gears stop spinning. My old '82 CB900 Custom used to do the same thing so I guess it's habit for me to grab 1st just before I stop.

[cj599_imp]

try a diff oil the honda hp oil makes them not shift as smooth try some maxxima once youll be glad you did also make sure the clutch is blead and fresh fluid dot 4
also rev it to match 1st rpms
when goin down

[Whoops]

try a diff oil the honda hp oil makes them not shift as smooth try some maxxima once youll be glad you did also make sure the clutch is blead and fresh fluid dot 4
also rev it to match 1st rpms
when goin down

At the moment I am running Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and just recently did a full flush on the front and rear brakes and clutch with some Valvoline DOT 4 (I like it because it is totally clear and easy to tell when it gets contaminated). The bike definitely shifted more smoothly, just not like butter. Of course I haven't put very many miles on my bike yet either so my technique is probably still in flux.

[Houtman_imp]

I use the Valvoline DOT 4 for the same reason as you do , makes it easy.

[cj599_imp]

try a diff oil the honda hp oil makes them not shift as smooth try some maxxima once youll be glad you did also make sure the clutch is blead and fresh fluid dot 4
also rev it to match 1st rpms
when goin down

At the moment I am running Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and just recently did a full flush on the front and rear brakes and clutch with some Valvoline DOT 4 (I like it because it is totally clear and easy to tell when it gets contaminated). The bike definitely shifted more smoothly, just not like butter. Of course I haven't put very many miles on my bike yet either so my technique is probably still in flux.

At the moment I am running Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and just recently did a full flush on the front and rear brakes and clutch with some Valvoline DOT 4 (I like it because it is totally clear and easy to tell when it gets contaminated). The bike definitely shifted more smoothly, just not like butter. Of course I haven't put very many miles on my bike yet either so my technique is probably still in flux. while mobile one is great i still think maxxima or amsoil would be better even belray but you probably right try to get the rev matching down and it will be better
also maybe try the 10w30 thinker oil might be giving you a hard time
interesting https://www.r6-forum.com/threads/mobil-1...lse.78485/