The CB1100 Community Forum

This thread is really about how I firstly repaired a crashed CB1100 and then went on to convert it to a Whitehouse CB750 lookalike.
Would it help if I reposted different sections under various "How To..." headings, rather than move the whole shebang??
Happy with whatever you decide.
These are the various Topics I've described.

How to make a cheap hydraulic workbench

How to swap a rear mudguard (fender)

How to fit a Samurider CB750-style rear light

How to fit a rear light Modulator

How to change a damaged left side engine/generator cover

Would you be able to COPY these individually across, and then in further posts
I make, I'lll duplicate HowTo's onto both threads?

(06-17-2019, 09:27 PM)Bazbro_imp Wrote: [ -> ]It's my pleasure, John. I hope they're not boring - 'real' mechanics already know most of this guffand don't need telling. I'm hoping that those inexperienced at "mechanics" will take encouragement and maybe have a go themselves when they see it laid out like this

It goes without saying that I'm thoroughly enjoying this, mainly because it doesn't involve "technical knowledge" - it's just unbolting and then bolting stuff up again. I do know my limitations, which is important

Congratulations Bazbro. Must feel really satisfying breathing another soul into this deserving ride.

Brazbo,

I would think separately as it would make searching/finding them much easier.

No probs, Popgun.

I cannot Copy/Paste the ones I've already done - I've just tried. if Admin could help with that, I'll double post in future, one here so the story continues, and another, separate post in the How To section.
Swapping handlebars...

The bars had to be exchanged because they were bent. I wanted the lower bars and was lucky to find an original Honda set cheap on eBay.
The damage...



First job is to temporarily fix a stick across the tops of the forks - somewhere to hang the hydraulic fluid reservoirs so that the system doesn't need to be drained.



The wing mirrors don't need to be removed, but one of mine is damaged so it's being exchanged; plus it makes the reservoirs less ungainly when taped to the stick. The thread at the bottom of the mirrors was surface rusted - VERY worrying on a 'bike that's just months old! And doubly worrying that this is supposedly a quality 'bike. Both screws were restored to 'as new' with the ACF50, with the knowledge that they'll be well-protected by it in future, under the little rubber boots.





The mirrors have a left hand thread to undo from the adaptor that screws into the reservoir (right hand thread!).

Undo the screw in the centre of the handlebar balance weight and before it's totally unscrewed, pull the entire insert out of the bars. Mine was tough to do on one side, but dead easy on the other!





Remove the brake or clutch switch wires



Undo the two 8mm bolts securing the hydraulic reservoir, lift off the reservoir from the handlebar, keeping it UPRIGHT, and then temporarily tape it to the stick.





Undo two screws (in varying positions, depending upon model year) that are holding the throttle/electrics modules onto the bars. Separate the two halves and lift off the electrical half - the throttle will have to remain in situ until the bars are removed because the cable is not long enough.



Now repeat for the other side.

When all parts are removed from the bars (except for the throttle and left grip) lift off the decorative caps on the handlebar clamps, using a craft knife blade - they are just push-on but tricky to flick off.



Move the handlebars to the left and slip off the throttle.



Reassembly is the reverse.
Because my 'bike is on the ramp, I'm leaving all bar and mirror adjustments until the 'bike is off the ramp and I can carry out proper adjustments, tighten all nuts/bolts, sitting properly on the 'bike and with a decent view of the road behind. For safety's sake, I've stuck a note to that effect on the speedo, in case I get excited, ride off and the handlebars come off in my hand!!

Remove the left grip off the removed handlebar, by pushing a thin screwdriver between grip and bar, then squirt WD40 alongside the screwdriver. Wiggle the screwdriver around, twist the grip and it will slide off. Dry thoroughly and refit to the new bars. If it won't grip, remove and add soap from a bar of soap - it will let the grip slide on, then harden as it dries and keep the grip in place. Honda use an adhesive - unnecessary in my experience.

The new bars fitted. Just awaiting a new handlebar weight, adjustment and final tightening




.

Fabulous coverage.

And now for the really, REALLY bad news...

I've had to divert the funds I'd set aside for the rest of the K17 parts (tank, side panels, front mudguard and 4-into-4 exhaust) to a family member with a financial problem. So... I'm frankly stuffed. The 'bike is now roadworthy and just needs an examination by the authority to certify this. It's only worth what I paid for it plus the bits I've put on and... it's getting older!

I'd hoped to be riding it by now, or putting it up for sale if it proved to be too big for me. I'm in my mid '70s, so really finding manhandling big bikes problematic.

I will HAVE to hang onto it and just do bits and pieces when I can. As it's only got 165 miles on it, I don't want to ride it in its unfinished state, with a dent in an exhaust pipe and dents in the tank (albeit only two small ones) because if I do want to sell it if it's too much for me, "one owner/165 miles from new" is a great selling point!!

Having said all this, a new 'K0 Cozy' seat is on it's way to me right now, and I shall continue to polish and fettle the 'bike and hope that the funds come back to me sooner rather than later (they're for a University course, btw, so a good cause).

Altogether now, everyone say "Aaawwww"!

Why not ride it with the dents in the tank and pipe and find out for sure if its too big for you to handle before buying the expensive bits?

Try saerching for "Paintless Dent Removal" on You Tube. You might be amazed at what you can do yourself on your tank.