The CB1100 Community Forum

(03-06-2022, 03:43 AM)Tev62_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Now you know where the clutch slave cylinder bleed point is too!

. Yes, Tev! There's quite a little treasure trove of little 'bits' back there !

That cover stays off until I can bolt up numbers 2 & 3 exhausts to the H-piece - the very last job. Why the Wyvern exhaust's instructions don't mention that I don't know - it makes the job considerably easier.

Well done Barry, keep up the good work!

Thanks, Colin.

I'm cleaning and packing up the old exhaust now, hopefully to get a buyer eventually. Then fit the headlamp 'ears' while the front wheel's out. Then fit the front m'guard and front wheel. Lower the 'bike off the jack and finish off the exhaust. And finally... fit the tank and panels!

I'm going to the funeral of a dear friend up in Kent on Tuesday/Wednesday, so I'll 'resume operations' on Thursday.

if your side stand hits your muffler just a bit like mine did
i drilled a small dimple in the stand and super glued a bb into it
then added a bit of black silicone to cover it up

(03-06-2022, 04:27 PM)rich_imp Wrote: [ -> ]if your side stand hits your muffler just a bit like mine did
i drilled a small dimple in the stand and super glued a bb into it
then added a bit of black silicone to cover it up

Thanks, Rich - good tip.

There is an adjustable bracket in the kit. I'll see how that works, but I'll remember this tip, thanks.

I had been away for some days but now catching up Barry , you are doing a great job explaining the job on hand.

Reminder – this is modifying a 2018 CB1100EX.

First, a quick recap...
I’d removed the old exhaust system. I’d put the ‘bike on a jack because of space constraints in my little workshop. I’d loosely fitted the outside (numbers 1 and 4 cylinders) pipes and silencers, and 2 & 3 pipes, but my jack prevented fitting the inner silencers. These will have to wait until I’ve fitted the new headlamp 'ears'/indicators, the new m/guard and I refit the front wheel. I can then lower the 'bike and fit Numbers 2 and 3 silencers, before finally fitting the tank and side panels.

So off we go...
Fitting the new Wyvern exhaust pipes is straightforward. They're numbered 1 to 4, cylinder 1 being the left side when sat on the 'bike. Slide on the finned alloy clamps (included in the kit) and offer up each pipe, putting an exhaust gasket (NOT included in the kit!) in the port first. Loosely fit the header clamp nuts to the cylinder bolts, to allow adjustment throughout the system while assembling.





Measure the distance from tyre sidewall to footrest hanger and insert appropriate spacer washers according to the instructions – my ‘bike didn’t need this.



Assemble the silencer/rear footrest bracket and install on the rear footrest hanger.






Fit the protective chrome covers...



...and slip the silencers 1 and 4 onto the exhaust pipes 1 and 4, loosely bolting up to the frame brackets. Tighten them all later, when the entire system has been fitted and has been properly adjusted.



Note - I'm now leaving the rest of the exhaust until I lower the 'bike. If you're working off a bench or on the ground, you could carry on.

The headlamp should be unbolted from the support on my 2018 model - you will remove the alloy bracket.  On other models, the instructions say leave the bracket in place or fit another, supplied bracket.  All my instructions here are for a 2018 model...



Remove the bolt on the side of the headlamp.  On the inside, slide the nut away from the shell and unclip the cable retainers from the bundle of cables.  Discard.



Using a 5mm hex key, undo the retaining bolts of the alloy bracket to the frame and remove it, complete with indicator.  Unbolt the indicator from the alloy bracket and discard the bracket.



In the kit are two hex bolts with small, rounded heads that are to replace the upper fork clamp bolts which can touch the tank.  Replace these now...



Then loosen the lower clamp and carefully drop the fork leg down to just above the lower fork clamp.  Fit one of the rubber rings in the kit onto the fork leg, and fit the other rubber ring round the top of the headlamp 'ear' – you’ll slide this off, onto the top of the fork leg, later.





Then slip the headlamp 'ear' over the fork, between the upper and lower clamps, while sliding the fork leg back upwards to it's original position, while ensuring that the lower rubber ring is kept at the bottom of the 'ear'.  Tighten the clamps.  Now manipulate the upper rubber ring into  position between the top of the 'ear' and under the top clamp (tricky!).



I then altered the mounting on the indicators to enable fitting to the headlamp, but there are any number of ways to do this - this is just how I chose to do it...

I cut off the locating stub on the first of the two rubber pieces (the mount will now sit flat).  I then enlarged the wire aperture on the rubber mount to permit the wire to exit DOWNWARDS.





I considered drilling a hole in the 'ear', covered by the rubber base, in order to conceal the cable, but I thought the tolerances too ‘tight’ and a too drastic operation for me.  As a result, the cable IS visible, but barely so, and is BELOW the mount.

I then obtained two 5cm long M10 hex bolts to secure the headlamp, the 'ears' and the indicators together.  Flatten the top and bottom of a couple of large washers (to fit in the headlamp shell), fit the hex bolt through the washer, through the shell, through the 'ear' and tighten to the indicator, ensuring that the indicator's  cable goes straight DOWN.  Feed the cable unobtrusively back, behind the 'ear', and into the headlamp shell.  Reconnect to blue and to orange connectors.  Finally, cable-tie the bundles of cables in the headlamp together in a similar manner to the original.





I'm very pleased with the result.



The next job will be modifying a genuine Honda CB750 front mudguard (fender) to fit - this might get ugly...

Nice progress details Bazbro.

Occasionally I wonder myself to remember to take key intermediate photos before a segment is assembled because sometimes once it is done, you don't want to undo it again just for an image.

Thanks, GO. It's something to bear in mind as you're doing a job - "keep taking photos".

I'm just awaiting a Moderator's reply to what's going wrong with my photos... I'm doing the same as I've always done but for some reason they're not reproducing? And if course, it's 'timed out' now for me to do anything else.