The CB1100 Community Forum

(03-15-2022, 05:46 AM)Bazbro_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 05:14 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 04:57 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Lol when it comes to wrenching my limitations are quite high. You folks that can take things apart and put them back together again amaze and impress me.

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

.

We've all been there...

(03-15-2022, 05:14 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 04:57 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Lol when it comes to wrenching my limitations are quite high. You folks that can take things apart and put them back together again amaze and impress me.

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

My best one was after I changed the clutch on my Range Rover. Last job, topping up the oil via a small dipstick hole, I squeezed the bottle a bit too hard and the nylon nozzle shot off the end of the bottle and disappeared down the hole into the gearbox innards! I was distraught!!

I noticed on a cutaway drawing in the Workshop Manual, a cast-in rib, with a small inspection plate almost next to it. I hoped and prayed...

Yup! After undoing the plate, I could JUST get a couple of fingers in and around the bit of tibe, and everso g-e-n-t-l-y eased it out...

"Home mechanics"... you've gotta love it!

Well- a shop mech would have put the fill cap on and went on to start the next job.

Not that you probably would have ever had an issue or noticed either way- but do NOT ever confuse paying a shop, even a 'factory service' to put the same care, attention to detail or time that someone would on their own product.

(03-15-2022, 07:14 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 05:46 AM)Bazbro_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 05:14 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 04:57 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Lol when it comes to wrenching my limitations are quite high. You folks that can take things apart and put them back together again amaze and impress me.

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

.

We've all been there...

(03-15-2022, 05:14 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-15-2022, 04:57 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Lol when it comes to wrenching my limitations are quite high. You folks that can take things apart and put them back together again amaze and impress me.

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

(+1)

" ... dang. ... I dropped a set screw into the engine block ... "


" ... again. "

My best one was after I changed the clutch on my Range Rover. Last job, topping up the oil via a small dipstick hole, I squeezed the bottle a bit too hard and the nylon nozzle shot off the end of the bottle and disappeared down the hole into the gearbox innards! I was distraught!!

I noticed on a cutaway drawing in the Workshop Manual, a cast-in rib, with a small inspection plate almost next to it. I hoped and prayed...

Yup! After undoing the plate, I could JUST get a couple of fingers in and around the bit of tibe, and everso g-e-n-t-l-y eased it out...

"Home mechanics"... you've gotta love it!

Well- a shop mech would have put the fill cap on and went on to start the next job.

Not that you probably would have ever had an issue or noticed either way- but do NOT ever confuse paying a shop, even a 'factory service' to put the same care, attention to detail or time that someone would on their own product.

Well- a shop mech would have put the fill cap on and went on to start the next job.

Not that you probably would have ever had an issue or noticed either way- but do NOT ever confuse paying a shop, even a 'factory service' to put the same care, attention to detail or time that someone would on their own product.

Yes, spot on, I'm afraid, Dubs. The number of horror stories regarding 'sharp practices' in garages is legend.

The final fit of the modified CB750 front mudguard...

The excess of the brackets were cut off, buffed and shaped.  I decided to paint the brackets because of this scarring of the chrome.  But... silver or black paint??

The first coat of red oxide primer, ensuring that it gets into all the nooks and crannies where the brackets attach to the mudguard and where rust would otherwise form...





I decided,  while I was about it, to paint all the seams round the edge, underneath the m/guard, to properly rust proof it.  By not bothering to mask all of the underside, overspray will get all over the underneath of the m/guard, but I'm not worried about appearance - it's those cracks and seams where rust starts, that I need to cover and protect with paint.



Don't forget the cable guide that was cut off the strut... that needs the red oxide rust preventer, followed by a topcoat too.



Silver it is!  I have some 'Truck Bed Liner' spray, but that's a bit over-the-top, I think.  So a couple of passes of spray silver it is, maybe followed by a couple of coats of clear matte lacquer to make the brackets look nice.



The finished job...

Fantastic!!

(03-19-2022, 01:32 AM)Bazbro_imp Wrote: [ -> ]The final fit of the modified CB750 front mudguard...

The excess of the brackets were cut off, buffed and shaped.  I decided to paint the brackets because of this scarring of the chrome.  But... silver or black paint??

The first coat of red oxide primer, ensuring that it gets into all the nooks and crannies where the brackets attach to the mudguard and where rust would otherwise form...





I decided,  while I was about it, to paint all the seams round the edge, underneath the m/guard, to properly rust proof it.  By not bothering to mask all of the underside, overspray will get all over the underneath of the m/guard, but I'm not worried about appearance - it's those cracks and seams where rust starts, that I need to cover and protect with paint.



Don't forget the cable guide that was cut off the strut... that needs the red oxide rust preventer, followed by a topcoat too.



Silver it is!  I have some 'Truck Bed Liner' spray, but that's a bit over-the-top, I think.  So a couple of passes of spray silver it is, maybe followed by a couple of coats of clear matte lacquer to make the brackets look nice.



The finished job...

Very nice. Silver or black - hard choice, but really, either would be great and the finish looks very professional.

Smart Bazbro. Don't underestimate the rust.

Fitting Wyvern 4-into-4 exhausts/silencers, Part 2...

You'll remember that I had to pause fitting the middle two silencers because my jack was in the way.  I had to wait until I could refit the front wheel/mudguard (fender) and lower the front wheel to the ground, before I could remove the jack and finish the exhausts.
So.... here we go on Part 2.
Before fitting the 'H'-section joining the middle two exhausts, I needed to safely route the O2 Sensor's cables.  The right-hand one is OK, but the left-hand cable runs dangerously close to, and could be snagged by, the rear drive chain.
I cable-tied the two cables together as far as possible,  then secured them to the main stand spring  hook on the frame, now unused ('3' in the pic).  Other cable-ties were added, especially where the cable needed to be guided near the centre line of the 'bike ('2' in the pic) and then as it went into the cavity occupied by the chain ('1' in the pic).
Cable-tied Gaffer tape was added where the cable passed any sharp edges.





With foresight, this could have been done better maybe, with shrinkwrap tube or stout rubber tubing.  This is satisfactorily, though.

While under the 'bike, and before the exhausts were fitted, I put tape on the swing arm bearing, to prevent stone damage and subsequent corrosion - a great idea by Max on this Forum.  Thanks Max!  



The kit comes with a small 'adapter plate' that, when adjusted properly, keeps the sidestand from hitting the exhaust.  Neat!



The 'H'-section middle exhaust joiner was tightened (socket bolts and 10mm nuts) and the inner silencers fitted and bolted up.



Leftside done...



The right side...



And both sides!



That's enough for today.  Tidying up tomorrow; finishing off small bits I've left, checking tightness of all fasteners I may have touche and so on.  And then... starting on the tank (fitting fuel pump and filler cap, etc).
Thanks for the kind comments, guys - they're all appreciated.

Yup, GO... I envy the guys that live in a climate where the dreaded "rust" isn't an issue!

Great view Bazbro. Tanks!

Very nice job!! Looks great!

Looking good Bazbro. That looked to be quite the job to me