the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
Flynrider_imp said:
Check the decal on your swingarm
Who has adjusted their chain?
- Thread starter the Ferret
- Start date
Check the decal on your swingarm
ron1100_imp
Running like a top
It's basically a Chain Alignment Toolmeowguy_imp said:
Quick and accurate alignment
Tool body clamps squarely to rear sprocket so the alignment rod will indicate sprocket alignment to chain
flynrider
Road warrior
Yep. It says keep chain adjusted to 1 1/4" (30mm). That is the midpoint of the range. It also says to see the operating manual. That lists the range as 1.0" to 1.4" (25mm - 35mm).The ferret_imp said:
meowguy_imp
Been there
Quote:It's basically a Chain Alignment Tool
Quick and accurate alignment
Tool body clamps squarely to rear sprocket so the alignment rod will indicate sprocket alignment to chain
Looks like it would do the trick. You would probably set the tension with the port side (left) adjuster, then square the sprocket with the starboard (right) side adjuster. Seems it would be quick, easy, and accurate. Not knowing of it's existence I just used what I had on hand.
Quick and accurate alignment
Tool body clamps squarely to rear sprocket so the alignment rod will indicate sprocket alignment to chain
Looks like it would do the trick. You would probably set the tension with the port side (left) adjuster, then square the sprocket with the starboard (right) side adjuster. Seems it would be quick, easy, and accurate. Not knowing of it's existence I just used what I had on hand.
Deanohh_imp
Been there
If you move one side and set chain, the slack will change again when you move the other side. After you know the rear is aligned once, it can't un-align if you always turn each adjuster the same number of flats when adjusting.
ron1100_imp
Running like a top
I don't see how that's possible (to keep them both at the same flats) especially when the wheel has been removed? Please educate me.
Deanohh_imp
Been there
you remove the wheel by pulling the axle out....drop wheel down....roll wheel forward.....take chain off sprocket.....remove wheel without letting brake caliper fall down. Don't move the adjusters at all. If you take the adjusters off for some reason, then you have to square things up again....once. Then when adjusting after that, turn each screw the same number of flats.... Most adjustments need less than one full turn. The thread pitch is very precise and alignment will stay if you do the same thing to each side.ron1100_imp said:
and before you tighten the axle after adjusting, jam a rag between chain and rear sprocket and turn the wheel to roll the rag in there tight so that the chain pulls both ends of the axle tight against the stops and you take any slop out of the axle adjustment parts and then tighten axle, remove rag and verify chain slack.
ron1100_imp
Running like a top
Ahhhh, I get it now. Thanks for elaborating. Much appreciated.
and before you tighten the axle after adjusting, jam a rag between chain and rear sprocket and turn the wheel to roll the rag in there tight so that the chain pulls both ends of the axle tight against the stops and you take any slop out of the axle adjustment parts and then tighten axle, remove rag and verify chain slack. I'm really enjoying both of those twins. The NC700XD (with the dual clutch transmission) is a joy in heavy traffic and makes for a great commuter. The CBR500R is much sportier and spiffy bike and has plenty of power (for me and I'm light - 135 lbs) for spirited riding and the seating position is great. BTW, I had a 2011 CBR600RR that I loved but the clipons killed my back, shoulders and wrists. Also had way too much just for the road.
My CB is definitely a keeper though. Now if only I could just stop thinking about the new 2014 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Hey how do you like those new Honda twins?
[/QUOTE]
you remove the wheel by pulling the axle out....drop wheel down....roll wheel forward.....take chain off sprocket.....remove wheel without letting brake caliper fall down. Don't move the adjusters at all. If you take the adjusters off for some reason, then you have to square things up again....once. Then when adjusting after that, turn each screw the same number of flats.... Most adjustments need less than one full turn. The thread pitch is very precise and alignment will stay if you do the same thing to each side.Deanohh_imp said:
and before you tighten the axle after adjusting, jam a rag between chain and rear sprocket and turn the wheel to roll the rag in there tight so that the chain pulls both ends of the axle tight against the stops and you take any slop out of the axle adjustment parts and then tighten axle, remove rag and verify chain slack. I'm really enjoying both of those twins. The NC700XD (with the dual clutch transmission) is a joy in heavy traffic and makes for a great commuter. The CBR500R is much sportier and spiffy bike and has plenty of power (for me and I'm light - 135 lbs) for spirited riding and the seating position is great. BTW, I had a 2011 CBR600RR that I loved but the clipons killed my back, shoulders and wrists. Also had way too much just for the road.
My CB is definitely a keeper though. Now if only I could just stop thinking about the new 2014 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Hey how do you like those new Honda twins?
[/QUOTE]
CB750TOM_imp
First service completed
Mine came with slack in the chain >1.5 inches. I noticed it immediately when I inspected the adjustment marks and found that one side was below three hash marks and the other was above three marks. Loosened the axle, adjusted the long side, approx. 3/4 turns, lined them up with a micrometer got a hair more than 1 inch slack. Tightened up to torque and put 100 miles on it. It came from the factory this way, so I adjusted at 30 miles.
BTW, I used a six inch extension on my 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and this gave me the clearance I needed around the exhaust.
This is why I do my own maintenance--learned this years ago with my Harleys. I do not trust the shop to do this stuff. It should have never been delivered with slack or out of alignment. This bike is easy to work on. I am ordering the shop manual and I'm on my way.
BTW, I used a six inch extension on my 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and this gave me the clearance I needed around the exhaust.
This is why I do my own maintenance--learned this years ago with my Harleys. I do not trust the shop to do this stuff. It should have never been delivered with slack or out of alignment. This bike is easy to work on. I am ordering the shop manual and I'm on my way.
davidsargee_imp
Been there
Recently tightened mine at almost 1100 miles. Tightened to slightly more than 1" slack. Now my transmission is real "clunky". Is this perhaps a sign that I went too tight?
Deanohh_imp
Been there
what's your definition of slack?davidsargee_imp said:
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
David normally when adjusted to 1" and a hair more, the transmission (at least on mine and others have reported the same) is slick as snot ..... snick, snick, snick. When mine gets loose it gets clunky.
SanPete_imp
Been there
I had to adjust mine at 2428. Second adjustment.
davidsargee_imp
Been there
Yeah, turns out I didn't quite tighten it enough. Not sure what happened. After I read this I tightened it a little more, now it is good and smooth.The ferret_imp said:
what's your definition of slack?Deanohh_imp said:
I must have measured the slack in the chain incorrectly, I tightened it more and it's good now.
Thanks
Deanohh_imp
Been there
Ok but make sure you're not going too tight. There's a simple process to get it right without guessing.
SanPete_imp
Been there
Mine was clunky too at almost an inch and three quarters of slack. I used the recommended inch and a hair measurement and what do you know. It is so smooth now. This forum is awesome.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk now Free
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk now Free
davidsargee_imp
Been there
Yeah, I figured it out. I've adjusted many a chain in the past, Not sure what happened this time, but it's just right now.Deanohh_imp said:
Aussie_imp
Running like a top
I've also found about 2.5 cm (an inch), which is the minimum play set out in the manual (25-35mm) makes the gear changes so much slicker than before when it was just in spec at 35mm.
thessler3_imp
Running like a top
One other precaution. Sprockets are sometimes out of round right from the factory plus chains sometimes wear unevenly. Either case will result in chains being tight or loose in different spots. When you are checking the free play, rotate the wheel so that you check the free play in several sections of the chain. I know of at least one friend's bike that had an out of round sprocket when it was brand new.
I also suggest wiping a chain and rear sprocket as clean as you can before lubing it. I use a rag dampened with kerosene, which was a recommendation of one of the chain manufacturers. Cleaning the chain first keeps your chain lube solvent from washing dirt into the crevices of the chain when you lube it.
I also suggest wiping a chain and rear sprocket as clean as you can before lubing it. I use a rag dampened with kerosene, which was a recommendation of one of the chain manufacturers. Cleaning the chain first keeps your chain lube solvent from washing dirt into the crevices of the chain when you lube it.
sanoke_imp
Running like a top
I've got 8,200 miles on mine and the chain slack is still well within spec. I use moly spline grease on the teeth of the rear sprocket and I find with all my bikes that I don't need to adjust the chain between rear tire changes. Guess it works.
