Who has adjusted their chain?

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veech_imp said:
I bought the Craftsman one about 15 years ago and it is holding up fine, although I only use it lightly. I also always unwind all the tension from the wrench when putting it away and never store it 'dialed-in.'

That's a good practice. I have two of the Harbor Freight torque wrenches people claim are junk. Measured them against my brothers expensive torque wrench and no diff in measuring. His clicks at 20 ft lbs mine licks at 20 ft lbs. same at 30 , 40 and 50. The difference is I only use mine a couple times a year for a nut or two, and not everyday as a professional mechanic might.
 
Rolls_imp said:
This set of Craftsman 1/2" sockets contains a 27mm and 32mm for $29.74 online w/free in-store pickup. They're 12pt., not 6pt., but they're shallow enough to fit behind the exhaust and they're easy-read, fwiw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc...75000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

You can also get just the 32 and 27 for about $17.

Hope it helps,

Rolls
Hey Rolls....we are out and about......wanna get together?
Rolls_imp said:
This set of Craftsman 1/2" sockets contains a 27mm and 32mm for $29.74 online w/free in-store pickup. They're 12pt., not 6pt., but they're shallow enough to fit behind the exhaust and they're easy-read, fwiw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc...75000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

You can also get just the 32 and 27 for about $17.

Hope it helps,

Rolls
Hey Rolls....we are out and about......wanna get together?
 
From another forum where a member had to have his torque wrenches calibrated every day due to the work he did found that clicker torque wrenches were not that good at holding their values. Torsion bar torque wrenches were ideal for accuracy. Save your self the money and get the cheap but accurate torsion bar wrench. Not as cool as a clicker, but far more reliable.
 
Thread starter
Good on ya Randy. Way to help a fellow forum member out.
 
Rboe_imp said:
From another forum where a member had to have his torque wrenches calibrated every day due to the work he did found that clicker torque wrenches were not that good at holding their values. Torsion bar torque wrenches were ideal for accuracy. Save your self the money and get the cheap but accurate torsion bar wrench. Not as cool as a clicker, but far more reliable.
Yeah, but the clickers have chrome fenders! :celebrate:
 
I use a Craftsman clicker torque wrench for easy of use but check this wrench often with a torsion type torque wrench for accuracy.The best of both worlds.
 
Houtman_imp said:
I use a Craftsman clicker torque wrench for easy of use but check this wrench often with a torsion type torque wrench for accuracy.The best of both worlds.
Trust but verify. A good practice.
 
Did some tune up items on my CB today. I have about 850 miles on the bike. I have been noticing here of late the bike is shifting a bit rougher between gears and is a bit jerky coming out of corners when applying the throttle. Checked my chain tension on the center stand and my chain was at the maximum of 35mm. Loosened the axle nuts and tightened the adjusters 1/4 turn. This brought my chain tension to the min of 25mm or 1". After tightening everything down to spec, I took a test ride. Wow, what a difference. The bike shifts ultra smooth again and no jerking coming out of the corners when applying throttle. Hard to believe this small adjustment made this big a difference.

Tip I learned for checking chain tension when I had my Triumph Bonneville. Take a 3x5 white index card and put a straight line at zero and then another at 25mm for min and another at 35 mm for max. Hold the card behind the chain at zero and check our tension by pushing the bottom of the chain up near the middle of the swing arm as directed in the manual. If the chain ends up between the 25mm and 35mm line you are within spec. Simple easy gauge for the back yard mechanics out there.
 
I adjusted mine today for the second time (1300 miles). I found that an SAE 1 1/16" socket will work just fine if you don't have a 27mm socket. I just held it in place with my left hand while I tightened the other side with a 32mm open wrench. A 1 1/4" SAE is suppose to be a substitute for a 32mm wrench.
 
Quote:Tip I learned for checking chain tension when I had my Triumph Bonneville. Take a 3x5 white index card and put a straight line at zero and then another at 25mm for min and another at 35 mm for max. Hold the card behind the chain at zero and check our tension by pushing the bottom of the chain up near the middle of the swing arm as directed in the manual. If the chain ends up between the 25mm and 35mm line you are within spec. Simple easy gauge for the back yard mechanics out there.
I use a combination square that has a ruler scale along the side. Simply put the short side on the ground, see where the chain is at rest on the ruler, then push it up to see how far it goes.

For adjusting the tension, I don't trust the screw turn method on the adjusters. I use a metric vernier caliper that has a depth gauge on it and set the distance of the adjuster to the axle the exact same on both sides with a 10th of a millimeter. The markings on the adjusters are just too course to get an accurate alignment in my opinion.

And I also noticed smoothness after the adjustment. I will attempt to hold mine around 1" to 1-1/8" as often as necessary.
 
Good info Meowguy. What are your thoughts on this tool?
e7079e3b87b8a1ac77935d3c77c69673.jpg
 
I've never seen that tool before. I really couldn't say. If you use it to measure the free play of the chain it doesn't have any calibration marks. Maybe you use it to set the depth of the chain adjusters equal.

I have no clue otherwise. Sorry.
 
The ferret_imp said:
At 2,100 miles my chain is finally due for its first adjustment exhibiting slightly more than the 1 1/4" max specified.

So I was wondering if anyone else has had to adjust theirs yet and at what approximate mileage?
I adjusted mine slightly when I did my first oil change at 700 miles.
 
I know I'm gonna get slapped for this, but I just use the tip (last knuckle to the end) of my index finger as a gauge. It's right about 1" so that's a good starting point and has worked well for me over the years.
 
Randy B_imp said:
I know I'm gonna get slapped for this, but I just use the tip (last knuckle to the end) of my index finger as a gauge. It's right about 1" so that's a good starting point and has worked well for me over the years.
once you've calibrated your knuckles, its as good as anything else.
 
Just an FYI, the spec for maximum play is 1.4" not 1 1/4".

At 2100 miles my chain is at 1.25" and I'm not planning on adjusting until it gets to 1.4". I've always run my chains at the loose end of the spec and found that they don't wear as fast that way.

Hey Randy, I'm with you. I just use my finger to check the slack. When it looks like it's getting close, I pull out the tape measure.
 
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